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Armstrong 64-830. 3:1 ratio that i found on EBay new in box for $200. Used with a Snap on 1/2 torque wrench. Went back around with my proto 3/4” torque wrench and everything was in spec.
I bought a sodding great 600ft/lb torque wrench - this sounds considerably easier...
Is the accuracy of the multiplier good enough that you don't need to go back around with the 3/4" proto torque wrench? If you need the proto anyway, kind of reduces the usefulness of it. If I could use the Armstrong with my Snap-on beam 1/2 torque wrench and get acceptable torque accuracy, I'd rather just buy the multiplier....
I bought a sodding great 600ft/lb torque wrench - this sounds considerably easier...
You will still need that for non emergency removal. Even though you can use a 250ft/lb to remove and replace with the multiplier, I would check it with a proper torque wrench.
You will still need that for non emergency removal. Even though you can use a 250ft/lb to remove and replace with the multiplier, I would check it with a proper torque wrench.
Sorry if these are obvious questions, I'm new to centerlocks and just about to order tools...
If you have both, what does the Armstrong multiplier do better? I get that it is smaller and keeping it in the car with a 1/2" torque wrench might be convenient, but in the garage, is there any real reason to use the multiplier if you also have the proto? Is it hard to break the centerlocks loose with the cdi 3/4 torque wrench?
Sorry if these are obvious questions, I'm new to centerlocks and just about to order tools...
If you have both, what does the Armstrong multiplier do better? I get that it is smaller and keeping it in the car with a 1/2" torque wrench might be convenient, but in the garage, is there any real reason to use the multiplier if you also have the proto? Is it hard to break the centerlocks loose with the proto?
It is for convenience .
Plus, technically, you should not use a torque wrench as a breaker bar. I'm guilty. But it could hurt the accuracy over time.
Install torque at 440 ft lbs is easy with a 3/4" 600ftlb torque wrench. Break a way torque is a different ballgame depending on how long they have been on, heat cycles, antiseize,etc. etc.
Could easily take 600ftlbs.......a 4ft breaker bar makes that easy.....a 3ft bar is tough....that's where the TM shines...3:1 ratio....
This arrived, with the backup camera for an extra 50 GBP. Considering my '14 doesn't have a camera this seemed like a really efficient way to solve that problem!
Plus, technically, you should not use a torque wrench as a breaker bar. I'm guilty. But it could hurt the accuracy over time.
Install torque at 440 ft lbs is easy with a 3/4" 600ftlb torque wrench. Break a way torque is a different ballgame depending on how long they have been on, heat cycles, antiseize,etc. etc.
Could easily take 600ftlbs.......a 4ft breaker bar makes that easy.....a 3ft bar is tough....that's where the TM shines...3:1 ratio....
I find that if I 'lean' on the bar, it'll break the nut (the bar/handle is 48" long) - I do not 'bang' on it to break it, so I am hoping I do not do any damage to it. It is dedicated to the car, so it is used exactly twice a year - spring to put summers on, and fall to put the winters on...
I already have a really nice Snap-On (precision instruments) 1/2" split beam 250# torque wrench... If the Armstrong torque multiplier with it yielded acceptable accuracy for centerlocks, I think I would prefer that solution to buying the four-foot 600# version.
So 600 Nm = 442 ft lbs = 147 ft lbs on the 1/2" with the 3:1 torque multiplier?
If it was standard lug nuts, the error, even the multiplied error plus the added error, wouldn't be a concern. I'm assuming that centerlocks aren't super sensitive, like the wheel isn't going to fall off at 550Nm or snap the hub at 650 Nm?
Apologies for not getting back in the torque multiplier conversation!!!!. for me, the torque multiplier (TM) is more about convenience and of course another tool to own. using it to break the wheels at 150 ft lbs, vs 450..... is A LOT easier. So for me, a lot easier than using my gigantor 3/4 torque wrench. And, I don't want to use to use it as a breaker bar; there is the proper tool for that.
The TM has accuracy of +/- 3% so it combined with my Snap On tech angle that was calibrated last year, should be close enough. The technical specs say within 5% accuracy (22/444) so you should be good to go. Page 3 of the pdf on 1st post here ----> https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...read-this.html
I wanted to put myself at ease a bit if I was driving far enough away to be able to do a plug/tire change and have enough gear to get by - not bringing my own torque wrench though.
Also, you don't necessarily need an Armstrong TM; any quality one will do: Proto, Snap On, etc with a 1/2" input and 3/4" output. I just happened to find the Armstong. Then I looked on craigslist and there was one locally for $150.
I just swapped my center lock winter wheels and tires for my summer set. I did it alone in my garage. The rear wheels are easy, The fronts are a bit harder without somebody holding the steering wheel, but they aren't impossible. I use the Precision Instruments mega wrench. It's a beast.
The TM has accuracy of +/- 3% so it combined with my Snap On tech angle that was calibrated last year, should be close enough. The technical specs say within 5% accuracy (22/444) so you should be good to go..
I'm definitely getting into my engineer mode and over-analyzing this when it probably matters not at all..
But the base torque wrench has an error spec as well, even when calibrated. Split beam wrenches are more accurate, but even a quality split beam 250# wrench has +/-3%, and you put it through a 3X torque multiplier, you now have a +/-9%, plus the 5% error in the TM. If the errors stacked, and the wrench was a bit out of calibration, +/- 15% seems definitely possible..
Again, it probably just doesn't matter. My guess is 500-700 Nm is probably fine for the centerlocks, so if you target 600, you are good to go.
I'm definitely getting in tomy engineer mode and over-analyzing this when it probably matters not at all..
But the base torque wrench has an error spec as well, even when calibrated. Split beam wrenches are more accurate, but even a quality split beam 250# wrench has +/-3%, and you put it through a 3X torque multiplier, you now have a +/-9%, plus the 5% error in the TM. If the errors stacked, and the wrench was a bit out of calibration, +/- 15% seems definitely possible..
Again, it probably just doesn't matter. My guess is 500-700 Nm is probably fine for the centerlocks, so if you target 600, you are good to go.
Yeah, I know what you mean.... that’s why i tested with the big torque wrench out of curiosity. And with the range of the acceptable CL torque specs, i figured it was all good.
05-17-2020, 05:40 PM
