Orthojoe's track build journal
#1081
#1082
If the starting pressure drops too low (26 psi) it goes blank, and it seems to take forever to show up again with no logical behavior.
I love being able to see the tire pressure live on track, when it works. Anybody have a recipe for success?
#1083
Three Wheelin'
Are you guys having any luck at all with the TPMS on track?
If the starting pressure drops too low (26 psi) it goes blank, and it seems to take forever to show up again with no logical behavior.
I love being able to see the tire pressure live on track, when it works. Anybody have a recipe for success?
If the starting pressure drops too low (26 psi) it goes blank, and it seems to take forever to show up again with no logical behavior.
I love being able to see the tire pressure live on track, when it works. Anybody have a recipe for success?
#1084
Rennlist Member
I have found the trick with the TPM system is to never let the tyres down too low at the beginning of the day. This way you don't need to go into Race Mode on TPMs. I find the tyres work well between 30/34 & 32/36 hot so for my first session if its dry I drop to 26/30 cold (i.e. drop pressures 3psi a tyre before going put). This usually means they peak out at 36/39 during the session. They stay pretty nice until 33/37 then they drop off. Once this initial session is run I can then drop them down to get my target hot temp without upsetting the system and it stays reliable all day. For example after such a session I would bleed another 2psi from each tyre. Probably by the third session i would drop another 2psi (so 7 psi now total but never once going bellow the 26psi threshold that upsets the TPM). If its a hot day or Im pushing on I may need to drop a further 1psi during the day. At the end of the day when the car is cold I find my fronts are sitting around 22 and my rears 26. I then set the pressures using Race Mode to get rid of the bing bing and on my way home I fill up at a gas station with air and fuel and release the Race Mode. I learnt all this the hard way like most circulating teh track with a "bing bing" in my ear (good reason to stick between 7000-9000 rpm because then you cant hear it LOL!).
#1085
Rennlist Member
In this publication and in my previous posts, the ideal pressure is 2 bar hot. Now I know this sounds low to you, but trust me and Pirelli this is the sweet spot for maximum grip, which is just a tad below R6, and actually better when ambients are less than 60- you will need to wait a while for that at thill! At the pressures you are running, 4 psi higher, they are far from ideal and tend to be "greasy". I'll find our thread on the Trofeo R from 2+ years ago and post for more good setup info.
Edit here is the thread from three years ago when these first came out and all of the track junkies in the 997.2 gt3 forum started using them. Pay particular attention to the track reports and how critical it is to manage the pressures to 28 psi.https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...-r-report.html
Last edited by montoya; 06-08-2015 at 03:13 AM.
#1086
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Orthojoe's track build journal
Originally Posted by montoya
I don't know why you guys choose to ignore the advice of others like myself that have run Trofeo R tires, but maybe you'll listen to the advice of the manufacturer:http://www.pirelli.com/mediaObject/p...rofeo_R_EN.pdf
In this publication and in my previous posts, the ideal pressure is 2 bar hot. Now I know this sounds low to you, but trust me and Pirelli this is the sweet spot for maximum grip, which is just a tad below R6, and actually better when ambients are less than 60- you will need to wait a while for that at thill! At the pressures you are running, 4 psi higher, they are far from ideal and tend to be "greasy". I'll find our thread on the Trofeo R from 2+ years ago and post for more good setup info.
In this publication and in my previous posts, the ideal pressure is 2 bar hot. Now I know this sounds low to you, but trust me and Pirelli this is the sweet spot for maximum grip, which is just a tad below R6, and actually better when ambients are less than 60- you will need to wait a while for that at thill! At the pressures you are running, 4 psi higher, they are far from ideal and tend to be "greasy". I'll find our thread on the Trofeo R from 2+ years ago and post for more good setup info.
I'll get it right next time!....but it's gonna be hot..
#1087
I'm hoping things like this will get fixed with some software updates.
#1088
Going to run windows up with the AC on?
#1089
Rennlist Member
Lots of good info here from hard track users. I had pleanty of hot days on the trofeos, just need to take care not to go out too low and maybe bleed them after a few warm up laps.
#1090
Three Wheelin'
I accidentally left my AC on one session this weekend. About half way through the session an alert popped up that said limited power available and cut my throttle. It wasn't a persistent error. I turned the AC off and everything was fine, but would have been scary in a corner.
#1091
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
I know, read through the thread I just posted: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...-r-report.html
Lots of good info here from hard track users. I had pleanty of hot days on the trofeos, just need to take care not to go out too low and maybe bleed them after a few warm up laps.
Lots of good info here from hard track users. I had pleanty of hot days on the trofeos, just need to take care not to go out too low and maybe bleed them after a few warm up laps.
#1093
Rennlist Member
Orthojoe's track build journal
I've run almost every track day with air con especially when I'm taking passengers for a few laps. In NZ we have no rules about windows down in fact most prefer them up for safety as we don't use window nets to keep our arms in the car should we get turned over. Never had an issue with any warnings about power reduction. Something odd there. Wonder if it just a coincidence and related to the gearbox issues?
#1094
Intermediate
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: ATLANTA, GA
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[QUOTE=orthojoe;12339802]Super tough question since that really depends on track layout and driving style. For pure track, I suggest start off with -2.7 on all 4 corners and go from there, but that is based on my tracks and my driving style.
Thanks for giving us a data point on OEM rotor longevity. 12 days on the front with what type of pads?
Thanks for the responses. I know it's not a black and white question on camber but the more input by experienced track guys the better!
My pads were the stock which are Pagid p90 FF (I think higher end street pads) but I took them down to 1mm on the front when the rotors also met their end...I probably should have changed out earlier 3-5mm..but I didn't...moving this week to PFC 11s all 4 corners and Trying Endless RF-650..back at Road ATL this weekend.
Thanks for giving us a data point on OEM rotor longevity. 12 days on the front with what type of pads?
Thanks for the responses. I know it's not a black and white question on camber but the more input by experienced track guys the better!
My pads were the stock which are Pagid p90 FF (I think higher end street pads) but I took them down to 1mm on the front when the rotors also met their end...I probably should have changed out earlier 3-5mm..but I didn't...moving this week to PFC 11s all 4 corners and Trying Endless RF-650..back at Road ATL this weekend.
#1095
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: West Vancouver and San Francisco
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I accidentally left my AC on one session this weekend. About half way through the session an alert popped up that said limited power available and cut my throttle. It wasn't a persistent error. I turned the AC off and everything was fine, but would have been scary in a corner.