Its_Lobelt

You’re not wrong, but my car stopped making sense after the entire thing was torn to pieces and rebuilt for no other good reason than fun. lol

alxdgr8

It's not required, it's just a nice to have factory 8 bolt forged crank. And for a while they were on closeout for stupid cheap.
Stock one comes in forged and cast varieties, but with 6 bolts. So more machining work for high power builds to pin and/or add extra bolts.

V2Rocket

And the added bolts/pin ups the power capacity? Do the factory flywheels/etc slip on the 6 bolts somehow?

On the V6 in my car there are only 6 bolts but GM didn't even use a pin on the end of the crank. Guys make 500+ hp with this engine and boost without any issues in that department.

rmm177

I just got around to trying to reconnect the cylinder head to the block. The ARP studs are M10-1.25 and my block needs M10-1.5. I emailed my supplier and they state the ARP studs in M10-1.5 are no longer available. I went out to the local Advance auto supply and bought head bolts. They look like they are correct, l’ll try them in the morning.

Bob
PS: boost brothers are finally taking orders for swap kits again, I’ve got mine on order.

Aleutian

Try searching for this part number 07K105101H and verify the company has availability on it before placing the order.


RMM, I purchased the integrated engineering ARP head bolt kit ARP-CVB1 and that fit great. They do not appear to be selling this on their site anymore but a couple suppliers say they have it in stock yet. The ARP main stud kit did not fit right, I ended up taking the block and caps into the machine shop again to have the main caps holes reamed out to accept the main studs.

rmm177

I commend you for your effort. The ARP stud kit I’m returning is ARP-CVB2. I installed The head bolts (Victor Reinz brand) I bought locally from Advanced auto supply and they fit fine, and torqued well, I could “feel” the stretch as I turned the last 90 degrees. Not fancy like ARP studs, but hopefully will hold for the moderate boost levels I’m planning.

Bob

Aleutian

The ARP-CVB2 kit is for the main caps that secure the crank to the block

ealoken

Just remember to line bore / hone if you change to ARP bolts.

pyropete125

349.5 lb

As picked up from the junk yard. $250 120k 2013

rmm177

what’s your plan for your build? Turbo? NA? What car are you starting with? What’s your goals?

Bob
​​​​​​​

pyropete125

Turbo track car only. In my 924S.

I contacted boost brothers and they said if I bought now maybe by end of year they can get a kit for me.. So it looks like I'm going to fab up most everything..luckily I am a welder and I have a 2 axis cnc mill and a couple of lathes. Nothing internal engine wise now. It may eventually end up in our lemons 944... but that's way down the line if ever

I"m modding a 02m tranny to make the adapter to the torque tube. I'll have to mod the oil pan like people have.

The oil filter plate I am going ro maybe tap the block and run an fittings. Block the water lines there also. Make my own rear water neck and vacuum pump delete

Not sure what to do with the water pump yet. Need to do some more research.

No power steering just an alternator needed. I am going to make my own plate valve cover.

Pete

rmm177

Since you’re not waiting for the BBG kit, Quicktime makes a bellhousing that available immediately, deeply discounted now makes it reasonably priced.

https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...0002&langId=-1

alxdgr8

Wow I hadn't seen it dropping in price so much! I remember how Allan did a bunch of R&D with them and then they came back at the end with their new price several times the original quote which of course lead BBG to make their own. Wonder if they made a bunch and then nobody bought them, hence the fire sale now.

pyropete125

need some sensor identification Yellow highlighted

Starting top left - 1)cam position
Top right - 2)cam timing solenoid r?
Right side top to bottom on right-
3) ?
4) ?
5) ?
6) crank sensor?

Behind the water pump thats the inlet is in to the lower radiator ?

Back of head is the outlet?

Thanks
Pete

Danny8774

From what I can tell you are correct. I'm not sure what to do with the oil control valve, may need to just leave it unplugged.

1 - Yes
2 - Yes
3 - Blue --> oil pressure switch
4 - Brown --> reduced oil pressure sensor - supposed to go from open to ground between 42-31psi
5 - Black --> I believe is the oil control valve for VVT
6 - Yes