VW/Audi 07K (2.5L 20V I5) Swap Thread
#2401
Rennlist Member
Very Interesting, out of curiosity why did you choose to go with the remote mount? Also what temperature should the thermostat be rated at?
For the Coolant setup, how did you go about it? Are you using any swirl pots or restrictors to build block pressure? Forgive my naïvety but does the pump on the side of the engine push the coolant into the block or suck it out of the engine and push it into the radiator?
For the Coolant setup, how did you go about it? Are you using any swirl pots or restrictors to build block pressure? Forgive my naïvety but does the pump on the side of the engine push the coolant into the block or suck it out of the engine and push it into the radiator?
For the coolant setup I am copying what Boost Brothers did, details here: https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...l#post16688235 There is a bypass loop for when the thermostat is closed. The water pump pushes through the block and out the back of the head.
#2402
Easier filter access mainly and it's nice that it has a built-in thermostat. Honestly though I might just skip it for now and see where my temps end up as it is primarily a street car. Thermostat temperature is personal preference I suppose, it will be what you want your minimal temperature to be. This won't necessarily be the running temperature but the temperature under low load and/or cold environments.
For the coolant setup I am copying what Boost Brothers did, details here: https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...l#post16688235 There is a bypass loop for when the thermostat is closed. The water pump pushes through the block and out the back of the head.
For the coolant setup I am copying what Boost Brothers did, details here: https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...l#post16688235 There is a bypass loop for when the thermostat is closed. The water pump pushes through the block and out the back of the head.
Surprised I missed that post, thanks for bringing it up.
One more question, I searched through the thread and couldnt find anything on fuel pumps and fuel lines. Are the oe pump and lines good for 600hp at the crank or does it need upgrading? And is there a difference between a 944 turbo and a gen 1 N/A 944 with regards to oe fuel pump and lines?
#2403
Rennlist Member
One more question, I searched through the thread and couldnt find anything on fuel pumps and fuel lines. Are the oe pump and lines good for 600hp at the crank or does it need upgrading? And is there a difference between a 944 turbo and a gen 1 N/A 944 with regards to oe fuel pump and lines?
I went overkill with a brushless Fuelab pump, see here: https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...urbo-swap.html
#2404
Pump will need upgraded. People say the stock fuel pump is good to around 350 WHP, maybe a bit more? Hard lines are 10mm and 8mm, should be okay with the right pump. No difference between Turbo and N/A as far as I know.
I went overkill with a brushless Fuelab pump, see here: https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...urbo-swap.html
I went overkill with a brushless Fuelab pump, see here: https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...urbo-swap.html
#2405
I recall Alan had some trouble with valve lifter ticking and thought it was related to the turbo oil supply off the front of the head. Did that end up being proven out where pulling oil from the front of the head is OK? Otherwise as an alternative I was going to run a line to the extra M10 oil pressure switch location on the block near the oil filter module.
Craig
Craig
#2406
Rennlist Member
I recall Alan had some trouble with valve lifter ticking and thought it was related to the turbo oil supply off the front of the head. Did that end up being proven out where pulling oil from the front of the head is OK? Otherwise as an alternative I was going to run a line to the extra M10 oil pressure switch location on the block near the oil filter module.
Craig
Craig
#2407
Dumb question but what kind of clamps are you guys using to hold your coolant/oil lines and electrical lines in place? I dont want to use zipties on the coolant lines because of chaffing ect.
thanks
thanks
#2408
We use cushioned p clamps. You can get them on Amazon, at Harbor Frieght, AutoZone etc.
#2410
#2411
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
How about an update on how the cars are running. Things that have failed or things you wish you would have changed. I love following this thread and sorry that I'm too old to do one.
#2412
Ive been reading about fuel injectors on this forum but was a little confused. Do the ev14 injectors require the ie fuel rail? And do the conectors match the pe 8400 wiring harness?
As for flow rating, I am looking for something to support 600 crank hp. Based on my calculations I need injectors with around 110 ib/hr, this seems high since Alan is apparently running 60Ib/hr injectors at unknown psi and duty cycle, and made 450whp or about 517 crank hp. Can anyone enlighten me on the actual flow rate needed for 600hp aswell as the ev14 injector compatibility with the wiring harness and what the situation is on fuel rails. Im looking to keep things simple and effective, im open to other suggestions than the ev14.
thanks
(Horsepower X BSFC) ÷ (number of injectors X injector duty cycle)
(600X0.7)÷(5X0.8)
420÷4=105ib/hr
As for flow rating, I am looking for something to support 600 crank hp. Based on my calculations I need injectors with around 110 ib/hr, this seems high since Alan is apparently running 60Ib/hr injectors at unknown psi and duty cycle, and made 450whp or about 517 crank hp. Can anyone enlighten me on the actual flow rate needed for 600hp aswell as the ev14 injector compatibility with the wiring harness and what the situation is on fuel rails. Im looking to keep things simple and effective, im open to other suggestions than the ev14.
thanks
(Horsepower X BSFC) ÷ (number of injectors X injector duty cycle)
(600X0.7)÷(5X0.8)
420÷4=105ib/hr
#2413
Ive been reading about fuel injectors on this forum but was a little confused. Do the ev14 injectors require the ie fuel rail? And do the conectors match the pe 8400 wiring harness?
As for flow rating, I am looking for something to support 600 crank hp. Based on my calculations I need injectors with around 110 ib/hr, this seems high since Alan is apparently running 60Ib/hr injectors at unknown psi and duty cycle, and made 450whp or about 517 crank hp. Can anyone enlighten me on the actual flow rate needed for 600hp aswell as the ev14 injector compatibility with the wiring harness and what the situation is on fuel rails. Im looking to keep things simple and effective, im open to other suggestions than the ev14.
thanks
(Horsepower X BSFC) ÷ (number of injectors X injector duty cycle)
(600X0.7)÷(5X0.8)
420÷4=105ib/hr
As for flow rating, I am looking for something to support 600 crank hp. Based on my calculations I need injectors with around 110 ib/hr, this seems high since Alan is apparently running 60Ib/hr injectors at unknown psi and duty cycle, and made 450whp or about 517 crank hp. Can anyone enlighten me on the actual flow rate needed for 600hp aswell as the ev14 injector compatibility with the wiring harness and what the situation is on fuel rails. Im looking to keep things simple and effective, im open to other suggestions than the ev14.
thanks
(Horsepower X BSFC) ÷ (number of injectors X injector duty cycle)
(600X0.7)÷(5X0.8)
420÷4=105ib/hr
You need long nose injectors.
The IE rail is not required but it is a nice piece and having AN ports at both ends is awesome.
These are the injectors we use:
https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/siem...tended-nozzle/
This calculator says you need 90# (remember, 5 injectors):
https://www.fueltech.net/pages/fuel-injector-calculator
This is what I would suggest although you can check with Injector Dynamics to see if they have the proper adapters form their injectors:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Bos...-127632-2357-0
#2414
Alan’s turbo car is fully sorted and running great. Most of the issues we had were with plumbing or installation issues that were easily resolved.
The main problem we had with kit components was the PE harness originally using the wrong resistors for the coil packs and allowing them to overheat. It was resolved and no issues since.
Pro tips:
1: remove the rear timing chain cover when installing the upper oil pan. It saves time in the long run.
2: remove the crossmember when installing the engine and have the upper and lower oil pans installed. It saves time in the long run.
3: Turbo cars - smart to go ahead and install a Bosch 044 fuel pump. Power it directly from the ECU as the factory Porsche wiring is too small.
#2415
The original NA swap car was pulled apart a long time ago. The parts are being used for my widebody build which will be getting a 1000 hp capable built engine.
Alan’s turbo car is fully sorted and running great. Most of the issues we had were with plumbing or installation issues that were easily resolved.
The main problem we had with kit components was the PE harness originally using the wrong resistors for the coil packs and allowing them to overheat. It was resolved and no issues since.
Pro tips:
1: remove the rear timing chain cover when installing the upper oil pan. It saves time in the long run.
2: remove the crossmember when installing the engine and have the upper and lower oil pans installed. It saves time in the long run.
3: Turbo cars - smart to go ahead and install a Bosch 044 fuel pump. Power it directly from the ECU as the factory Porsche wiring is too small.
Alan’s turbo car is fully sorted and running great. Most of the issues we had were with plumbing or installation issues that were easily resolved.
The main problem we had with kit components was the PE harness originally using the wrong resistors for the coil packs and allowing them to overheat. It was resolved and no issues since.
Pro tips:
1: remove the rear timing chain cover when installing the upper oil pan. It saves time in the long run.
2: remove the crossmember when installing the engine and have the upper and lower oil pans installed. It saves time in the long run.
3: Turbo cars - smart to go ahead and install a Bosch 044 fuel pump. Power it directly from the ECU as the factory Porsche wiring is too small.
How much electrical power can the ecu give to the fuel pump? The fuel pump I need requires a little more juice than the bosh 044. I would need something that can flow over 74gph at 58 psi. I was thinking of running something like the holley dominators. Its 2 pumps in one housing. one pump is used for cruising and the second turns on under load. Would it be compatible? I'm also open to suggestions.
Thanks