So what did you do to your 928 Today......
#7891
Pro
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I just pulled my gauge cluster and ~1" of the harness beyond the plugs.
After testing the speedometer sensor and harness wiring, it made it as far as the cluster connector with no issues.
Adding in that the Tach also quit working when other gauges started functioning, and it's time to rewire the cluster to get rid of the failed flex PCB, and to use a better connector to join with the chassis harness.
A bit of function generator testing of the Tach and Speedo to verify functionality is also planned, which may end up requiring a shipment to a speedometer shop.
I bought a mating 35 pin set of TE AmpSeal connectors for another project but will be using them for this. Now I just need to decide on a color code for the wiring and get to it.
After testing the speedometer sensor and harness wiring, it made it as far as the cluster connector with no issues.
Adding in that the Tach also quit working when other gauges started functioning, and it's time to rewire the cluster to get rid of the failed flex PCB, and to use a better connector to join with the chassis harness.
A bit of function generator testing of the Tach and Speedo to verify functionality is also planned, which may end up requiring a shipment to a speedometer shop.
I bought a mating 35 pin set of TE AmpSeal connectors for another project but will be using them for this. Now I just need to decide on a color code for the wiring and get to it.
#7892
Intermediate
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After working normally since purchase, all of a sudden I cannot open my rear hatch! When I pull up on the release **** beside the seat, all I get is a whirring sound without the usual click. Obviously their is power to the release switch but the mechanical lock is not being actuated. Any opinions on what my problem is? What can I do to get the hatch open?
#7895
The Parts Whisperer
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The following 3 users liked this post by Mark Anderson:
#7896
Rennlist Member
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After working normally since purchase, all of a sudden I cannot open my rear hatch! When I pull up on the release **** beside the seat, all I get is a whirring sound without the usual click. Obviously their is power to the release switch but the mechanical lock is not being actuated. Any opinions on what my problem is? What can I do to get the hatch open?
Also inspect the hatch lock (prone to cracking) and the insert of the hatch receiver (they deteriorate and fall apart).
#7898
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#7899
Rennlist Member
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Adjusted the bypass screw on the throttle body....it's tightening back up after replacing the ICV....had to give it some more air...a good thing. Then I went and drove it like I stole it.
#7900
Rennlist Member
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Two weeks in a row wondering about building cost on the 928.
Exhibit one: Fitting the front seats and fighting the loose "nuts" used for the front bolts - especially the ones next to the transmission tunnel. I assume there was a trick, but I lost count of how many times I dropped that little threaded block.
Exhibit two: Removed the rear hatch catch to tie some rip ties around the pin and get the release working again. Same story - no captive nuts to bolt onto, but a floating plate that is basically impossible to position and hond with the catch in place. And how did they get it in there in the first place as it doesn't seem to be able to fit through the top or bottom hole in the panel?
Exhibit one: Fitting the front seats and fighting the loose "nuts" used for the front bolts - especially the ones next to the transmission tunnel. I assume there was a trick, but I lost count of how many times I dropped that little threaded block.
Exhibit two: Removed the rear hatch catch to tie some rip ties around the pin and get the release working again. Same story - no captive nuts to bolt onto, but a floating plate that is basically impossible to position and hond with the catch in place. And how did they get it in there in the first place as it doesn't seem to be able to fit through the top or bottom hole in the panel?
#7901
Intermediate
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It's behind the tool kit at the back. If you can't open the hatch with the key, you will have to crawl back there. I had a similar problem (motor worked but didn't unlatch). Intuitively, I thought raising the motor up a bit towards the latch would work. It didn't - moving the motor down did the trick fro me.
#7902
Addict
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Rennlist Member
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Just drove her, that’s it.
We moved about 2 months ago, and between packing, actually moving, getting the house and the garage setup, haven’t had too much time to drive her/work on her since getting back from 3rd Coast. Garage now painted and epoxy floors will be complete by weekend of April 10th, so the Bulit will finally reside at the house for the first time since I bought the Gts in 2007.
Long story short, had not driven her in 4 weeks. She fired up on first crank and was up on the tollway (in Mexico) smooth as glass at 90mph within 10 min. Put about 20 miles on her, then back to storage. Next time she fires up, it’ll be to come.
Did I mention that I’m still amazed that this 42 year old car fires up after 4 weeks of sitting on the first crank. Wow!
We moved about 2 months ago, and between packing, actually moving, getting the house and the garage setup, haven’t had too much time to drive her/work on her since getting back from 3rd Coast. Garage now painted and epoxy floors will be complete by weekend of April 10th, so the Bulit will finally reside at the house for the first time since I bought the Gts in 2007.
Long story short, had not driven her in 4 weeks. She fired up on first crank and was up on the tollway (in Mexico) smooth as glass at 90mph within 10 min. Put about 20 miles on her, then back to storage. Next time she fires up, it’ll be to come.
Did I mention that I’m still amazed that this 42 year old car fires up after 4 weeks of sitting on the first crank. Wow!
#7903
Intermediate
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Spent the last few days analyzing my stuck closed rear hatch problem. Was able to solve it by adjusting motor position. Now I seem to have blown a fuse, as I am absent the normal whirring sound when the switch is pulled and of course the click that accompanies opening. I need to locate the fuse and identify its exact position on the fuse panel to determine if it is now an electrical issue. Since I am a newbie, I don't have an electrical diagram sheet or work manual.
Just checked the 1 amp fuse and it is OK.
Just checked the 1 amp fuse and it is OK.
Last edited by whale driver; 03-29-2020 at 08:52 PM. Reason: checked fuse
#7904
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Spent the last few days analyzing my stuck closed rear hatch problem. Was able to solve it by adjusting motor position. Now I seem to have blown a fuse, as I am absent the normal whirring sound when the switch is pulled and of course the click that accompanies opening. I need to locate the fuse and identify its exact position on the fuse panel to determine if it is now an electrical issue. Since I am a newbie, I don't have an electrical diagram sheet or work manual.
https://www.928gt.com/t-89fuse.aspx
#7905
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Spent the last few days analyzing my stuck closed rear hatch problem. Was able to solve it by adjusting motor position. Now I seem to have blown a fuse, as I am absent the normal whirring sound when the switch is pulled and of course the click that accompanies opening. I need to locate the fuse and identify its exact position on the fuse panel to determine if it is now an electrical issue. Since I am a newbie, I don't have an electrical diagram sheet or work manual.