So what did you do to your 928 Today......
#5941
So what did you do to your 928 Today......
It took me 2 hours to get the reconditioned clutch master cylinder in place and fixed. Much respect for people who do this with engine in place. Next time (if ever) I put in 2 pieces of thread without head so I just have to fix tge clutch master cilinder with 2 nuts in the footwell.
#5943
Removed a bunch of tools and parts from my 928S... Oh no, wait... somebody already did that for me. And kept everything.
So today... filling out more paperwork, speaking with insurance folks and pricing out replacement parts, tools and any accessories or custom items that are no longer in my possession.
Unfortunately, just now looking in to getting alarm installed...
So today... filling out more paperwork, speaking with insurance folks and pricing out replacement parts, tools and any accessories or custom items that are no longer in my possession.
Unfortunately, just now looking in to getting alarm installed...
#5945
Did the Deoxit treatment to the fan controller connections yesterday.
Today, when I turned the key to start the car, I noticed that the fans were on (this with the engine off and cool).
Took a look at connections and everything was good.
Well maybe, the controller didn't like it...
Until I found out that the HV/AC was on "recirculation" which activate the AC!
Easy fix for sure.
Today, when I turned the key to start the car, I noticed that the fans were on (this with the engine off and cool).
Took a look at connections and everything was good.
Well maybe, the controller didn't like it...
Until I found out that the HV/AC was on "recirculation" which activate the AC!
Easy fix for sure.
#5947
Got itback on the road
Finally fixed the loose drivers side mirror and took it for a spirited drive after getting it back from...
Top end refresh
TB/WP
Assorted gaskets and seals
Motor mounts
New belts and hoses, and yes
A new (to me) short block.
All courtesy of TBF.
Felt good to hear it growling from the exhaust instead of the bottom end.
Top end refresh
TB/WP
Assorted gaskets and seals
Motor mounts
New belts and hoses, and yes
A new (to me) short block.
All courtesy of TBF.
Felt good to hear it growling from the exhaust instead of the bottom end.
#5948
Finally fixed the loose drivers side mirror and took it for a spirited drive after getting it back from...
Top end refresh
TB/WP
Assorted gaskets and seals
Motor mounts
New belts and hoses, and yes
A new (to me) short block.
All courtesy of TBF.
Felt good to hear it growling from the exhaust instead of the bottom end.
Top end refresh
TB/WP
Assorted gaskets and seals
Motor mounts
New belts and hoses, and yes
A new (to me) short block.
All courtesy of TBF.
Felt good to hear it growling from the exhaust instead of the bottom end.
Start a thread and introduce yourself and the car.
#5949
Decided to finally dive in and fix the "HVAC blower only works on high speed setting" problem. I fixed the same problem many years ago, but it returned.
Also figured it would be a good time to clean the front evaporator, since I'd be in there anyway to fish out the blower resistor pack.
This is what I found inside the air box in front of the evaporator:
I got the resistor pack out, along with the major wads of crud:
I took the protective cage off the resistor pack and got ready to clean and DeoxIT the contacts on the thermal disconnect. I knew it needed it; terminals 6 to 8 should be close to 0 Ω, but I measured 450 Ω.
You can see the contact in question right under the blue block in the middle of the photo:
After cleaning the contact and applying DeoxIT (which, BTW, resulted in less than 0.1 Ω from terminal 6 to terminal 8):
Cleaned the front of the evaporator. Used a combination of brushes and small-tipped vacuum attachments (and later sprayed some A/C coil cleaner on it):
Good enough for now.
Buttoning it up again is a pain. That rubber boot that connects the blower to the evaporator air box is easy to remove and damn hard to put back on.
Took the car for a short drive and enjoyed being able to use the HVAC on speeds lower than 4. Also contemplated how I'll probably be in there doing this job again some day: given how much crud accumulates in the front evaporator areas and around the blower resistor pack and being that the thermal disconnect contact is right in the air stream, it's probably destined to need maintenance again. Crummy design, IMHO.
Also figured it would be a good time to clean the front evaporator, since I'd be in there anyway to fish out the blower resistor pack.
This is what I found inside the air box in front of the evaporator:
I got the resistor pack out, along with the major wads of crud:
I took the protective cage off the resistor pack and got ready to clean and DeoxIT the contacts on the thermal disconnect. I knew it needed it; terminals 6 to 8 should be close to 0 Ω, but I measured 450 Ω.
You can see the contact in question right under the blue block in the middle of the photo:
After cleaning the contact and applying DeoxIT (which, BTW, resulted in less than 0.1 Ω from terminal 6 to terminal 8):
Cleaned the front of the evaporator. Used a combination of brushes and small-tipped vacuum attachments (and later sprayed some A/C coil cleaner on it):
Good enough for now.
Buttoning it up again is a pain. That rubber boot that connects the blower to the evaporator air box is easy to remove and damn hard to put back on.
Took the car for a short drive and enjoyed being able to use the HVAC on speeds lower than 4. Also contemplated how I'll probably be in there doing this job again some day: given how much crud accumulates in the front evaporator areas and around the blower resistor pack and being that the thermal disconnect contact is right in the air stream, it's probably destined to need maintenance again. Crummy design, IMHO.
#5950
Bounced off the rev limiter in 2nd trying to stay ahead of my friend's turbo Cayman. Oops. Still, he was somewhat impressed at how much faster the car is now that new injectors mean all 8 cylinders are firing
#5952
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 20,506
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From: Bend, Oregon
Also figured it would be a good time to clean the front evaporator, since I'd be in there anyway to fish out the blower resistor pack.
Cleaned the front of the evaporator. Used a combination of brushes and small-tipped vacuum attachments (and later sprayed some A/C coil cleaner on it):
Good enough for now.
Buttoning it up again is a pain. That rubber boot that connects the blower to the evaporator air box is easy to remove and damn hard to put back on.
Cleaned the front of the evaporator. Used a combination of brushes and small-tipped vacuum attachments (and later sprayed some A/C coil cleaner on it):
Good enough for now.
Buttoning it up again is a pain. That rubber boot that connects the blower to the evaporator air box is easy to remove and damn hard to put back on.
Inspired by your efforts, I decided to clean the evaporator, something that has not been done previously. I pulled the blower resistor, and lifted the cap tube for the anti-freeze switch out of the way first. I was missing the giant wads of fuzz and mouse nests materials fortunately, but found what looked at first to be a black felt pad blanketing the front of the evaporator. Dust mixed with road fumes, close to 100k of SoCal driving's worth. Glad it stopped there rather than finding all that inside my lungs I guess. I wonder if there's fed compensation for black lung disease for L.A basin pollution-breathing victims... I've got forty years of it.
With the resistor and the cap tube out of the way, most of the black sort of oily stuff came out with the mini-vac hose attachments for the shop vac. The rest succumbed to spray AC coil cleaner, followed by another vacuuming and then a distilled-water rinse. Evaporator looks bright shiny clean and new again.
Reassembly of the boot was achieved using a small hooked tack puller, looks like a screwdriver with a spread and hooked end, with a split in the middle to lift out tacks. The outsides of the hook are nicely rounded to they don't risk tearing the boot. I seated the boot on the evaporator side first, so the lip on the metal flange could be engaged with the groove inside the lip of the boot. There was previously some yellow contact or weatherstrip adhesive there from initial assembly. I cleaned that long-crispy glue off before putting the boot back on. Then pulled the blower side of the boot back on starting at the bottom and the rear, coaxing the boot back over the rib on the blower housing with the little tack puller, rolled so it didn't cut the rubber. Once I got the 'right' tool for the job, the boot went back on perfectly in less than 30 secs.
It's a little over 40º this morning so no chance to test out the cleaner evaporator quite yet. Should get to the high 70's this afternoon, a chance to see how much better things work when they are clean and free-flowing.
#5954
Painted A Pillars
SEM Painted the A Pillars, Removed the Sun Visors and cleaned up.
Took it for a drive, stomped it in first gear to avoid a less than bright dude on a crotch rocket, broke the rear end loose and it straightened right up on its own. Seems that rear end steering works!
Took it for a drive, stomped it in first gear to avoid a less than bright dude on a crotch rocket, broke the rear end loose and it straightened right up on its own. Seems that rear end steering works!