The Twin Screw Thread
05-10-2006, 03:18 PM
#976
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
Originally Posted by mspiegle
On a semi-related note... does anyone know where to get pullies these days? I was thinking of calling up kenne bell or DR, but thought i'd check here first.
05-10-2006, 03:28 PM
#977
Sharkaholic
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
DR for your autorotor pullies, not sure about the eatons. I got mine staight from Whipple.
Temp sensors:
The one that screws into the stock intake manifold went into that nut that Mike mentioned on the bypass fitting. The other that comes out of the bottom of the air box, I just ziptied to the fuel rail to keep it out of the way.
Temp sensors:
The one that screws into the stock intake manifold went into that nut that Mike mentioned on the bypass fitting. The other that comes out of the bottom of the air box, I just ziptied to the fuel rail to keep it out of the way.
05-10-2006, 06:14 PM
#978
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Looks great Charles, really does. Like it is suppose to be there! 
You will get onto top of the leaks. Just be methodical with it. As stated, dont TQ those bolts down too tight. ID just go to 22..leave it...next time you have access to the bolts again ( i think the fuel rails have to be off) Tq it again.
again, really looks sharp!
You will get onto top of the leaks. Just be methodical with it. As stated, dont TQ those bolts down too tight. ID just go to 22..leave it...next time you have access to the bolts again ( i think the fuel rails have to be off) Tq it again.
again, really looks sharp!
05-10-2006, 06:37 PM
#979
Three Wheelin'
Really nice install. One of the cleanest I've seen. Be very proud of yourself.
Originally Posted by Pizza
Thanks Louis, Tony and Mike for the replies. I found the leaks. Air is escaping from around a few of the bolts that hold the manifold down, from the gaskets underneath the manifold and around where the intercooler nipple comes out from the front of the manifold next to the snout. I bought the kit used and left it together assuming it was sealed up. I'm going to start tearing everything down and resealing. I'm very frustrated to say the least. I was so ready to drive this thing. Hopefully I can be ready for SITM. A few questions. How did you guys seal up around the top of the bolts that hold the manifold down? What did you torque those bolts to? Where do I put the 2 air temp sensors (86.5) now? I have them tie wrapped to asmosphere for now. I tried to attach a few pics Mike. Thanks for all the help Guys!
05-10-2006, 07:10 PM
#980
Originally Posted by Bill Ball
Andy initially said torque the bolts to 22 ft lbs. Later he said 30. I did not like the "feel" of the bolts after I got to 22 ft lbs and was taking them to 30. A few felt like they were not cinching any further and might have been stripping the block threads. These are steel bolts into aluminum. Maybe I was being overly cautious, but I left them at 22.
05-16-2006, 12:24 AM
#982
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I tore everything back down and found multiple leaks on the manifold. I sealed everything up good and tight and reinstalled it. No more leaks. Oh boy! I crank it up and now the car won't idle. I changed the idle stabalizer valve. Still hunting at idle. I have to keep giving it gas to keep it running. WTF!!!!! I'm getting realy aggravated so I'm going to bed before I do something stupid. Any suggestions are appreciated. I can't understand why it idled so good before with all the leaks and now with no leaks it idles like crap. MAF?
05-16-2006, 05:41 AM
#983
Rennlist Member
Hi Pizza,
How long did you run it for ? It will need a little time to adapt, if you disconnected the battery.
If you're running 30# injectors make sure the idle FP is 30psi
How long did you run it for ? It will need a little time to adapt, if you disconnected the battery.
If you're running 30# injectors make sure the idle FP is 30psi
05-16-2006, 05:47 AM
#984
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,577
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by SharkSkin
Bill, Brendan, even 22 is overdoing it IMHO.... Spec calls for 20+2 Nm, that's 16.25 ft/lbs at the high end.
05-16-2006, 01:30 PM
#985
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by mspiegle
I think its somewhat dependant on the gasket you're using. You need enough torque to compress the gasket properly.
05-20-2006, 06:57 PM
#986
Rennlist Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Hi Guys,
Dyno Details on the Production Version of our New 32V Twin Screw Kits are posted here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/274617-dyno-results-928-specialists-twin-screw-supercharger-kit.html
After all of the work and with my latest design changes I am very pleased with the 456 RWHP running only 6.9 PSI and no knocking ,no pinging, no Tip-in and PURRFECT Idle and driveability!!
Thanks to everyone here for the tips, support and mainly for your PATIENCE!
Hope to see a bunch of you at Shark in the Mountains..
I gotta get back at it, have a GREAT BOOSTED 928 Weekend,
Dyno Details on the Production Version of our New 32V Twin Screw Kits are posted here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/274617-dyno-results-928-specialists-twin-screw-supercharger-kit.html
After all of the work and with my latest design changes I am very pleased with the 456 RWHP running only 6.9 PSI and no knocking ,no pinging, no Tip-in and PURRFECT Idle and driveability!!
Thanks to everyone here for the tips, support and mainly for your PATIENCE!
Hope to see a bunch of you at Shark in the Mountains..
I gotta get back at it, have a GREAT BOOSTED 928 Weekend,
__________________
David Roberts
2010 Jaguar XKR Coupe - 510HP Stock - Liquid Silver Metallic
928 Owners Club Co-Founder
Rennlist 928 Forum Main Sponsor
www.928gt.com
928 Specialists on Facebook - 928Specialists
Sharks in the Mountains on Facebook - 928SITM
David Roberts
2010 Jaguar XKR Coupe - 510HP Stock - Liquid Silver Metallic
928 Owners Club Co-Founder
Rennlist 928 Forum Main Sponsor
www.928gt.com
928 Specialists on Facebook - 928Specialists
Sharks in the Mountains on Facebook - 928SITM
05-23-2006, 03:53 PM
#987
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Update: I'm pretty sure I got all the vacuum and boost leaks sealed up. I'm now running super rich. The only time my AF meter moves from pegged out rich is when I let my foot off of the accelerator quickly. Then it only goes to one yellow bar in the stoich area of the gauge. I'm running 30# injectors with the stock 85-86 regulator, and a BEGI. I'm getting 36# of fuel pressure at idle. I disconnected the battery before fixing the leaks and reattached it after to reset everything. (Thanks John Speake) I drove the car about 10 to 15 miles and it still is running very rich. What are my options? Adjustable regulator? Put my stock 24# injectors back in? Thanks
05-23-2006, 03:57 PM
#988
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,577
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Pizza
Update: I'm pretty sure I got all the vacuum and boost leaks sealed up. I'm now running super rich. The only time my AF meter moves from pegged out rich is when I let my foot off of the accelerator quickly. Then it only goes to one yellow bar in the stoich area of the gauge. I'm running 30# injectors with the stock 85-86 regulator, and a BEGI. I'm getting 36# of fuel pressure at idle. I disconnected the battery before fixing the leaks and reattached it after to reset everything. (Thanks John Speake) I drove the car about 10 to 15 miles and it still is running very rich. What are my options? Adjustable regulator? Put my stock 24# injectors back in? Thanks
05-23-2006, 04:10 PM
#989
Sharkaholic
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
That is exactly what I had to do! With the 30# injectors I did not have enough adjustment in the BEGI to lean it out. Once I put the 24# injectors back in I was golden. Ran an air/fuel of 12 to 1 at 403rwhp with that setup.
05-23-2006, 05:36 PM
#990
Rennlist Member
Hi Pizza
The 30# injectors with 36psi idle fuel pressure usually just about hang on the edge of the O2 loop adjustment range, according to my calcs. So there may still be a problem with your car...
Possiblilties - check that you really do have full vacuum on the 85/86FPR at idle (just in case FP gauge is telling fibs)
You may have contaminated your O2 sensor with rich running, so the loop doesn't work, to pull back the rich mixture on the O2 loop.
You could try the O2 disconnect trick to eliminate a faulty sensor. Disconnecting the sensor at the round 3 pin plug on the floor infront of the fuese/relay panel, followed by a battery disconnect will tall the LH ECU to go to default mode. See if that helps.
The 30# injectors with 36psi idle fuel pressure usually just about hang on the edge of the O2 loop adjustment range, according to my calcs. So there may still be a problem with your car...
Possiblilties - check that you really do have full vacuum on the 85/86FPR at idle (just in case FP gauge is telling fibs)
You may have contaminated your O2 sensor with rich running, so the loop doesn't work, to pull back the rich mixture on the O2 loop.
You could try the O2 disconnect trick to eliminate a faulty sensor. Disconnecting the sensor at the round 3 pin plug on the floor infront of the fuese/relay panel, followed by a battery disconnect will tall the LH ECU to go to default mode. See if that helps.