Cameron

I had the PS pulley issue. I ate through the PS reservoir hose (drops straight down from the reservoir), fixed that, and then ate part way through the rad hose. Sebastian ate through his rad hose cpmletely one time.

Andy sent us an round plate to fit 'over' the PS pump pulley. It has a radius of about 1/8 inch more that the pully, creating a lip to make it difficult for the belt to move forward. I have noticed now that my blet has moved forward one notch on the main crank pulley, and then back. When it moved forward, it looks like it just touched the rad hose. There is a very slight wear mark there.

I am keen to see what DR does. If it is possible to retrofit his solution, I would consider it in order to solve this problem once and for all.

Jim_H

Hey Cameron,

I think Andy was trying to go back to the normal belt/ PS pulley with the set up pictured below, which he provided for my 424 system. However the ac pulley is 1 1/4" across bigger so it's not an option

BTW, I too have cut my PS hose and lower radiator hose when the belt worked its way out

mspiegle

Pretty neat idea, but there is no "charge" section of the twinscrew setup. As soon as air exits the blower, its practically in the engine. I suppose you could put these before the blower, but I doubt it would be worthwhile. Also, I wonder how much those fins on the inside displace air? I'll bet you would need a 4" unit to flow air like a 3" pipe.

Bill Ball

Cameron:

DR's setup has the blower further forward so the pulley system is not intrechangeable with ours.

Cameron

$hit.

I don't know what else to say.

Shane

Fraggle,

Carl at 928 Motorsports sells in-line intercoolers like that. They would work well for Centrifugal blowers and possibly even turbos, but not for the twinscrew.

fraggle

Thanks for the replies - I spaced the fact that the twin-screw setup would pretty much eliminate the space for anything like this. Still a neat idea.

Pizza

I'm almost ready to crank up my car with the Twin Screw SC installed. I had some SS braided fuel lines custom made. I am in the process of testing the fuel lines. I jumped 30 & 87 on relay XX with a toggle switch and enough wire to get around the front of my car to see my fuel pressure gauge mounted on the fuel rail. I turned on the swith (car off & no key in ignition) and can hear the pump running and the fuel circulating but my fuel pressure is staying at 0. I hooked my Mighty vac to the stock regulator, applied -20 vac and still no fuel pressure increase on the gauge. I hooked up my air compressor, applied 15 psi air pressure to the BEGI and finally got the fuel pressure to come up to 75 psi (barely, my pump was struggling). Shouldn't I have fuel pressure without having to pump air to the BEGI? With 15 psi air pressure to the BEGI shouldn't I get more that 75 psi fuel pressure?

Pizza

Update! The wires for my toggle were too long thus the fuel pump wasn't able to pump out max pressure. I now can get my pump to 100 psi as long as I supply air to the BEGI. I still have no fuel pressure with BEGI at 0 psi and vacuum applied to the stock regulator.

Imo000

Maybe your fuel gage is inaccurate. There has to be pressure, otherwise the injectors will not supply the engine with fuel.

mspiegle

Just to throw out a few tidbits...

If you are using the BEGI as a piggyback, it is physically impossible for the unit to lower your fuel pressure. It can only raise it.

Now, with that in mind, it sounds like you should be applying your vacuum/pressure to the regulator instead of the BEGI. If your car isn't running then the regulator is seeing atmospheric pressure which means "WOT" which means create more pressure. You should be seeing SOME pressure (30-40psi?).

As a troubleshooting step, I would take a pair of vice grips, wrap your final return line with a towel (to protect it), then clamp it shut with the vice grips. Jumper the fuel pump again and you should get MAX pressure unless you have a leak somewhere or your Fuel pressure gauge is busted (assuming the fuel pump is running).

A common place to get leaks is between the injectors and the fuel rails. Those little snap-on things are very important in keeping the injectors sealed properly. Do you smell any fuel?

Tony

Becareful with the air compressor, you can blow out the diaphram in the BEGI unit. Ask me how i know.
It is a good way to set your fuel pressures and test them under simulated load though.

as far as your 75psi fuel presure, it depends where you have the the needle valve set.

Id have to search, but its probably buried in this thread some where but i did a little write up on how to set the BEGI unit.
in a nut shell the big center hex bolt on the top sets your onset point....the fuel pressure you want at ZERO VAC...ZERO BOOST...
the max value that the fuel pressure will reach is determined by the small needle valve on the side. You may have to use the restrictor in the line....i did.

Pizza

Thanks Imo000, Mike and Tony for the replies.

This is the troubleshooting I've done so far. All test were done with the car off, ignition off, fuel pump bridged (heard pump running), no visual gas leaks and no gas smell.

1st - Regulator and BEGI @ atmosphere, 0 psi on fuel gauge.

2nd - Regulator @ -20 Vac, BEGI @ atmosphere, 0 psi on fuel gauge.

3rd - Regulator @ - 20 Vac, 0 psi on fuel gauge, applied 15 psi air pressure to BEGI, pressure on fuel gauge came up to 100 psi, bled off air pressure to BEGI and fuel pressure dropped to 0 psi instantly (with -20 Vac still on regulator).

I suspect my stock regulator is bad. I want to get everything hashed out before I put the air intake on the back of the blower (PITA).

FlyingDog

That doesn't make sense. All the BEGI is doing is closing off the return more, same with the stock fpr. If fuel is flowing you should have pressure just from the return plumbing, even if the fpr and BEGI are wide open. You should read ~36psi with no vacuum. It should even be close to that is the fpr's diaphragm is blown out. I'd guess your gauge is bad.

Edit: Post #959 on a boosted Porsche thread.

mspiegle

That's why I wanted you to clamp off the return line. It would tell you if there's something wrong with your regulator. sorta...