borland

heinrich,

The more features (security/convenience) you add over simple KE, the more wire hacks to the factory harness. That's the main reason for keeping the factory alarm (which includes a crude immobilizer feature), as it minimizes the number of wire taps.

Alan

If your stock alarn works correctly don't ever screw with it, if it doesn't - fix it - it will still be better quality than anything you can buy and aftermarket install.

All stock alarm features work exactly the same - you can even open/close disarm/arm with the key in exactly the normal way and can interchange key vs remote at will - the central locks work exactly as stock including the button. Make no connections for alarm or interior lights - on the late models the light controller already does everything you might need. you can connect the KE panic/confirm chirp to the stock alarm horn if you want (usually requires an additional relay).

So ... If it aint broke don't fix it.... & if it is broke - do fix it

(.....rather than replace it with crap you will regret).

Alan

borland

Yes, that's true. Just that not all KE kits can be programmed for less than 1/2 second pulses, and some don't support key press duration pulses.

My Prestige (Audioxox) unit doesn't support these features, so I used the diodes to isolate the window/sunroof controller.

Alan

I think it will be OK - I always prefer schemes that have fewer components so I'd rather change 2 wires (easy ones at the CE panel) and an easy ground change at the rear - than add an extra relay. Besides mine is wired this way already so I know it works well.

One other thing to note here - since the rear hatch key switch contact is now connected to the relay coil (so the remote disables the alarm) - and since this contact engages before the latch actually unlocks mechanically - you only need to turn the key a little and the hatch will start to unlock electrically - rather than mechanically via the key ... neat.

Alan.

Alan

In that case for the money involved I'd buy one that does (Commando's do this fine - <$50).

Alan

borland

Too late for me. Mine was also <$50. Besides, the one window up at a time feature is too slow for me. I like the minature transmitter that came with my Prestige; less bulky than what I found with other units I looked at.

Bill Ball

I wondered about that - thanks, Alan. I need to finish this install and see how it behaves. The window blip would bother me.

Bill Ball

I used a KE Commando and didn't like the default settings. Can't remember which they were exactly. I like the Audiovox default settings and their small 3 button remote too. So, the Audiovox is simpler when I install in other cars as there is no change needed to the defaults for users to need to know about.

9two8

.., thanks for that Bill, while I,m on, could you take a look at this kit I saw on ebay and tell me if it would be suitable for my car, looks quite simple (which I like). It,s not all bells and whistles I agree, but after twenty years of turning a key in the lock it would be total luxury .
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Remote-Key...item53eaa86a06

Ken
80 928 S
5 Speed

UK

heinrich

Borland, Alan, thank you Guys. If I manage to get my car usable, I'll ask you more questions as I have a great Viper with 2-way I want to integrate gracefully ... my stock system works well.

Bill Ball

Looks like it should work for door keyless. Yes, it's a real convenience.

9two8

..., thanks

Ken
80 928 S
5 Speed

UK

Bill Ball

Well, it doesn't work correctly. Below is my scheme with a DPDT relay.

The doors work, of course. The hatch pops but the motor stops at a point where it won't relatch. The pulse on the remote's option button is not adjustable on the unit I'm using. It's a short pulse for power and ground. Still, I thought the motor cycled the same regardless of how short the switch pulse is. I thought maybe the ground needs to be longer, but even with the doors open, the motor does not complete the cycle. [EDIT: actually it does!]

Also, when I open the doors, sometimes the hatch opens. I don't get that either. It's as if opening the doors provides ground [EDIT: It is.], but where is the power coming from [EDIT: the red wire on the motor, dummy. The yellow wire is just initiates the cycle.] I am enamored with this scheme as there are no wire cuts or swaps, but it's not working. Any ideas?

Alan

Bill - does a double unlock click operate the 3rd channel hatch release - try that quite deliberately? Whe you say opening the doors triggets the hatch - do you mean unlocking remotely (or actually 'opening' manually)...

If yes - it may be configurable to NOT do that.

I think it sounds like the grounding pulse at the motor needs to last long enough to pop the hatch (and enable the interior lights) - to complete the parking cycle. Sounds like it won't work that way unless you can configure for a longer pulse... does

However what you says makes me wonder - does the hatch pull work normally still? is it just the KE that doesn't work. Does the hatch open trigger the interior lights?

Are you sure you have the grounding to the lights connected correctly - do the interior lights trigger as expected by
hatch release?

Alan

Bill Ball

Hi Alan:

Thanks for trying to help me sort through this.

This is not a KE unit - it's Audiovox. I think I do have a KE for backup. The Audiovox is very simple and the door open/close pulse is not configurable.

I went out an re-examined what was happeneing and now it all makes sense. My report above was not quite right and it is now clear that the ground pulse is too short, so the remote hatch pop fails to run the full cycle. The remote will operate the hatch perfectly IF the side door is open, in which case the door pin provdes the needed ground. Also, if I open a door after operating the hatch with the remote, it finishes the cycle.

Studying the wiring diagrams some more, I see the front door pins are the only ones providing ground to the hatch. So, even though the hatch pin switch also trips and the interior lights go on, that does not provide ground to the hatch motor. I see a few posts back you did some swapping with the interior light circuit. Maybe that's another way to get ground to the hatch motor, so once the hatch pops it has ground until the interior lights go out.