danglerb

This thread worked for me, I'm gonna smile and pay the guy that knows what he is doing, but I may be lucky to have a shop around that did a lot of alarm installs when the 928 was new and has the same tech still there.

Alan

Randy - you talking to me ....

Alan

borland

Alan,

I forgot about the brown wire power being activated by the inside light timer relay. If the the doors are closed and the inside lights are on by the timed delay relay, then the hatch will release with the doors closed. That also needs to be rewired as you suggest.

If the alarm is put in SUSPEND mode (for opening the hatch), will the alarm be SET OFF by opening one of the doors?

I was going to wire my door switches to turn on the inside lights with disarm and unlock (like is normal with 91'-95'), but wondering if I could do the same with SUSPEND.

Alan

The later alarm modules 91-95 (like the one above) have a suspend mode for the hatch that does not unlock the doors - so they can't just be opened. When the hatch is closed the alarm resumes from suspend mode.

I think the alarm is truly 'suspended' here - so I'd expect if you crawled in and opened a door that it would not go off until you closed the hatch (but surprisingly - I've never done this to find out )

Not sure what the earlier (90) hatch release from the key actually does? if it unlocks the doors then its really more of a simple disarm, especially if it doesn't resume alarm mode automatically...

As for interior lights - you can use the dome light supervision of the KE to add light features but including the hatch release in this will be dependant on wether the KE supports that as a trigger source.

Alan

Randy V

That's real nice if I was an electrical whiz like you, Al!

I need something more 101-ish. Pics of what to attach where, etc.

Rog says he may be putting a kit together.

Giovanni

And also one for S4s. For the electrical challanged DIY as myself, I would like to see a write up that NO wire diagram but instead one with pics of wire locations that you need to tap into. If you know nothing about electrics, a wire diagram will not do any good. Or is it just me?

Kevin in Atlanta

I'll second what Randy said. I want to do it right. The wiring diagrams, while complete, lack the visuals I need. Example: In the drawing above there is a new wire from the horn on the alarm unit to the horn relay. Ok, but how are you doing the connection? Is the existing horn relay or the relay provided with the Commando alarm? Or am I just wraping a wire around the pin where it connects to the fuse panel? Or do I pop off the top of the horn relay and solder it there?

I want to do the upgrade and not be embarrased by the work I do. I know that's too much to ask. But, when I sell the car someday I do not want to read about my wiring job as a hatchet wiring job on Rennlist.

borland

Common practice is to use wire taps. You can buy these at your local automotive parts place. Look here for for what these people call "quick splices" and "quick slide connectors" under wire connectors.

http://www.wiringproducts.com/index....tml&lang=en-us

Kevin in Atlanta

Bought those. How will that work when hooking into the relays?

Alan

The relays I showed are additional new ones not any already installed.

You need to buy these relays and sockets. Sockets usually have wire tails already attached to the terminals so you can use screw connection blocks, butt splices, insulation piercing tap connectors (tap con) or soldered and heat shrink covered connections.

Personally I'd use soldered & heat shrink wrapping for new connections and tap cons only to splice into the alarm connections (using the correct size splices - important!). Soldering & heat shrinking is much more trouble though.

I'll think about more instructions... so many differences year to year...

In the end this just isn't one of the easiest things to tackle.... and probably shouldn't be anyones first auto electrical project.

Alan

Alan

Here is an updated diagram - the items in yellow (Plus the 2 Diodes & Fuse) are new additions...

Alan

Kevin in Atlanta

Exactly my point, I want to do the soldering and heat shrink. Thanks for the tips, esspecially about the correct sized slices.

AO

Alan-

I had installed my RKE (remote keyless entry) setup a year or so ago, but never did the hatch. Since my seats are out getting recovered, I thouht now was the best time to tackle it. I followed your schematic above, and bada-bing, bada-boom, it works like a charm! Thanks Alan!

Randy V

Easy for you maybe - I'm still hoping for a step-by-step write-up for the GTS installation.

I imagine with good instructions this task could be completed in a few hours.

AO

Randy-
I think you're right. You could accomplish this in about 3 hours from start to finish including a beer or two. All you need is the RKE system, some additional relays, and some miscellaneous wire connectors.

Tell you what... you bring your car out here this summer when you visit your family in Michigan, and I'll install it for you. Sharks in Hell is supposed to be either the last weekend in July or 1st weekend in August. How 'bout it? I know it's a bit of a drive, but think about how cool it'll be to have your lights blink when you lock and unlock your car - not to mention the "chirp chirp".