Kevin in Atlanta

There was a time when Wally would do presentations at SITM. The last one I remember was on the HVAC system.

What about helping me with installing one in my GTS at SITM? I have all the parts on the shelf. I know of at least one other owner that would enjoy such a how-to.

Anybody else like to see a keyless entry system installed?

AO

I'd do that...

Kevin in Atlanta

Cool let's coordinate and I'll get my GTS ready.

Randy V

That's a kind offer, AO - a long drive though, fer sure.

Perhaps when you do Kevin's GTS you could do some documentation along the way? I'd be very grateful. Heck, if you do a thorough enough job of documenting you might be able to sell it to one of the 928 vendors who could then develop a complete kit for sale. i know Rog had mentioned something like that previously.

atb

Here's what I did this weekend:



This is the Commando 550-S system. I got it because I wanted the option of wiring up a remote start and immobilizer function which this system has, and it also has the smaller key fobs since there isn't an LCD screen on them.

This is being installed on my '88 with no factory alarm.

Thanks to Alan for posting all the helpful info here on this thread, and a big thanks to local auto stereo wiring guru Thurston P. who sat through two separate Denny's gut bomb lunches to help me create a wiring diagram that I could actually follow.

At this point, I've got a couple of questions for those that already have alarms installed:

1) It seems that shock sensors are the biggest causes of false alarms. I was seriously thinking of just leaving the shock sensor out. Good idea or bad?

2) I haven't wired in the remote start or immobilizer functions. I've heard that this can cause problems with the 928. Anyone have any problems or heard of problems with either a remote start or immobilizer installation causing problems with their car?

Thanks.

Kevin in Atlanta

That is a very nice setup. That is exactly Andrew and I have scheduled for SITM.

That is a very clean set!

Where did you get the second relay? Radio Shack? Part Number?

AO - I'll have that set up before we get started.

ATB, Thanks for the inspiration!

AO

Kevin-
My install isn't even that claen, so if you can get her setup like before hand, I'll help you with the wiring and you'll be a happy happy man.

atb

Hey Kevin,

I'll get the part # of the relays for you, but they are very common. I saw them on the rack at Schuck's while buying some wire terminals. Thurston P. provided these for me (he does this stuff for a living, so he had them with him, along with the two diodes for the for parking lights).

The twin relay set up is to allow me to open the hatch from the remote without having the door open. I haven't tested it yet (system not wired up to the car yet), but I think Thurston had said since my car is non- factory alarm that the hatch harness doesn't have to be re-wired (by-passed) like what Alan has provided in his diagram. We'll see.

I've created a color wiring diagram, which also shows where to tap into the car's harness by fuse panel block letter/pin number/wire color. It also references where in the WSM wire diagrams the connection is located by page number and quadrant. The wires change colors from year to year, but I think the pin locations are all the same. This would make it easy for someone (hopefully) to just go to the page and quadrant for their MY and reference what color wire they need to look for. I'll be taking pics showing where I physically tap into the stock harness and post those along with the wiring diagram.

I'm a little leary of posting it now, since I haven't installed the system and made sure it functions properly, but I'd by happy to email it to anyone who wants it.

Are you and Andrew going to hook up the immobilizer function? I imagine Andrew's going to pass on the remote start with the 5 speed.

AO

Adam-
FYI... the GT's and GTS's have a different alarm module that we tie into under the passenger seat - makes it really simple. So your diagam wouldn't help us, but it will definitly helps others. I did not hook up the imobilizer on my car as I didn't want to introduce another variable into no-start issues, but we can hook it up on Kevin's car if he wants. And I didn't get a setup with remote start for similar reasons...

atb

Andrew wrote:

It would be nice to have it all right there in one place. I'm not looking forward to tying into the harness at the main fuse panel, but it will be nice to do it right. My car came with a few after market alarms that had been patched into it over the years. (None were working when I got the car) I took all that wiring out but did a poor job of patching up the previously scotch-blocked wiring. I'm going to take care of all that with this install.

I was thinking about this too, I still may go for it though. I may have to post a separate thread to see if anyone has had issues after hooking up this function. The passenger side sill panel is so easy to access with only the two thumbscrews holding it down, that if something did glitch, it seems that it would be easy enough to get to the source and bypass it. Still, another source for a potential headache.

I'm very much looking forward to having this system wired in and installed. My driver side lock broke many years ago, and I'm really getting tired of walking around to the passenger door to lock/unlock the car.

Brett Jenkins

I have a viper alarm and I would LOVE to be able to pop my hatch with the aux button on my remote. Unfortunately, I'm about as good at electricals as a penguin is at flying, so I'd need pretty easy, laymen step by step instructions on doing this. None of those fancy wiring drawings or big words. :-)

I assume by-passing the necessity of the door being open is required as well.

Anybody want to take a stab at creating "An Idiots Guide To After Market Wiring"?

I guess I could start by getting the model # of my alarm and finding an instruction book.

Bill Ball

Adam: If you're leary of posting a schematic since you're not sure you've got it correct, then post it so we can have Alan look it over! I'm sure interested in seeing how you wired it. Sure looks tidy!

Kevin in Atlanta

No imimmobilizer or remote start.

I can understand your reluctance about posting.

Thanks for the encouragment.

-Kevin

atb

I drafted the schematic in Word. Is there a way to post it here without a color scanner to convert it to a jpg? Or, I can email the Word file to someone to scan if they have a color scanner available.

It looks like Thurston diagrammed out this set up originally described by Dave McK:

Alan

I did not respond the the original post - but to be clear - there is no need for any special relays to defeat the door interlock. However you do of course need a new relay to operate the hatch from the KE.

The simplest solution is to connect the Brown/White wire from the hatch release motor to a permanent ground. If you do this you will lose the interlock on the hatch pull(s) too, but you can open the hatch at any time.

I re-introduced this interlock by rewiring the hatch pulls to be secondary triggers for the new hatch relay - using the switched ground contolled by the doors. There is no critical need to do this but I like to keep the behaviour as close to stock as I can.

Alan