DEVEK - SUPERMODEL Tech Session and Gathering, March 26-27
#271
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Derek:
Here is the setup. Because of the routing over the wheels is less direct than the default route, you need more slack in the cable. Screw in the throttle cable adjuster at the quadrant and at the firewall and maybe even relocate Andy's bracket that retains the cable housing by slotting its screw holes so it can move in closer to the wheels. Also, I bent Andy's bracket down and changed the angle of the tip that holds the cable so the cable points more horizontal. I might fuss with it a bit more tonight to make one bracket that holds both wheels.
Note that with the current setup the throttle body still tilts very slightly inward. Otherwise the wheel is held too too high due to limitations when using 3/4in angle and clearing the throttle body top.
Here is the setup. Because of the routing over the wheels is less direct than the default route, you need more slack in the cable. Screw in the throttle cable adjuster at the quadrant and at the firewall and maybe even relocate Andy's bracket that retains the cable housing by slotting its screw holes so it can move in closer to the wheels. Also, I bent Andy's bracket down and changed the angle of the tip that holds the cable so the cable points more horizontal. I might fuss with it a bit more tonight to make one bracket that holds both wheels.
Note that with the current setup the throttle body still tilts very slightly inward. Otherwise the wheel is held too too high due to limitations when using 3/4in angle and clearing the throttle body top.
![](http://www.billsworkshop.com/sc/throttle.jpg)
#273
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Well, here's the whole thing. The advantage of this intake is that it is nondestructive to the fan shroud. The 2 wire reinforced 2 1/2 inch hoses squeeze through the air horns in the shroud with a little massaging and fasten to a dual snorkel K&N stuck down in front of the radiator. Let's give Andy props for cleverness.
![](http://www.billsworkshop.com/sc/intake.jpg)
#276
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Originally Posted by Shane
How does that linkage feel, Bill? It looks pretty good for a couple pulleys and a couple of sections of angle.
Originally Posted by mspiegle
do you see any danger in the cable slipping off the wheel somehow?
Ideally you would use larger wheels and my next version will use the stock wheel in place of the horizontal wheel.
Now, I just made type 2, shown here. Same idea but just one combo bracket.
![](http://www.billsworkshop.com/sc/throttle2.jpg)
This one had a little flex in the long arm, being pulled on by the short leg, so I reinforced it. I'll make the next one out of heavier aluminum angle iron.
#279
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The rear tires are down to cord.
I'm sure the torque tube flexplate needs readjusting already. Still need to assemble the lift and get to that.
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Last edited by Bill Ball; 04-06-2005 at 02:40 PM.
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Bill, Derek, Seth,
Is your SC pulley riding on the inside of the idler pulley? I know I am not the first to have this problem and I wonder what causes this and what the fix is. I am miss aligned by 2 ribs and am looking for a cure.
Is your SC pulley riding on the inside of the idler pulley? I know I am not the first to have this problem and I wonder what causes this and what the fix is. I am miss aligned by 2 ribs and am looking for a cure.
#282
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This is exactly what I recommended to Shane when we did his. Nice work, and much more stable.
Originally Posted by Bill Ball
The linkage feels fine. I womped on it a bunch of times today. I adjusted the cable just like I do always - make sure it fully returns to the stop when released with the tiniest of slack.
Ideally you would use larger wheels and my next version will use the stock wheel in place of the horizontal wheel.
Now, I just made type 2, shown here. Same idea but just one combo bracket.
![](http://www.billsworkshop.com/sc/throttle2.jpg)
This one had a little flex in the long arm, being pulled on by the short leg, so I reinforced it. I'll make the next one out of heavier aluminum angle iron.
Ideally you would use larger wheels and my next version will use the stock wheel in place of the horizontal wheel.
Now, I just made type 2, shown here. Same idea but just one combo bracket.
![](http://www.billsworkshop.com/sc/throttle2.jpg)
This one had a little flex in the long arm, being pulled on by the short leg, so I reinforced it. I'll make the next one out of heavier aluminum angle iron.
#284
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It's a lot of shimming but I wouldn't mind if I know it won't hurt the SC. I think Tony actually ground the back of his bracket down.
Here is a link to the problem. http://www.928supermodel.com/forum/v...?t=88&start=15
I put a square flush with the face of the SC pulley and then rested it on the crank pulley so I am a full 2, maybe three ribs off. The frayed belt is from me trying to run it in too far on the crank pulley
It may be that the belt will be ok but I also want to make sure it won't hurt the SC snout over time.
Here is a link to the problem. http://www.928supermodel.com/forum/v...?t=88&start=15
I put a square flush with the face of the SC pulley and then rested it on the crank pulley so I am a full 2, maybe three ribs off. The frayed belt is from me trying to run it in too far on the crank pulley
It may be that the belt will be ok but I also want to make sure it won't hurt the SC snout over time.
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Originally Posted by heinrich
Jim can you shim the mounting of the idler pulley? Sure it's running true/not angled?
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Yes opposite of what I had thought. So then the problem looks to be that the idler bracket is too thick, or the idler pulley sits too far out. Perhaps you could grind the whole bracket but I'd say no, rather see about making the pulley itself run closer back ... is it possible the pulley has a front and back, or that the pulley is the wrong part?