Noahs944

Used wobble extension to get to the back lower bolt.

Noahs944

I could use some help here for my 88 2.5 n/a vacuum routing please.
On the Jboot "Y" pipe & elbow pipe. What hoses go to them?

V2Rocket

elbow pipe connects the AOS hose to the J boot on the left side of the throttle body
"Y" plugs into the bottom of the J boot after the AFM, one leg goes to the idle air valve under the intake manifold, the other leg goes to the "Y" venturi pipe the brake booster hose connects to

Noahs944

THAT HELPS my brother! Mucho gracias.



Studying exhaust scavenging crank case systems & air oil separator systems. Better for the engine (and "free" power). http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...a-edition.aspx

Noahs944

Decided to JUST MAKE DAMN SURE the factory crank case like is CLEAR. It is & I can see clearly that it is not squished like it was before. Also ran the idle air solenoid properly this time.

I have learned to respect the air management system.

So far today:
-Installed brand new timing belt, set the timing
-sorted the vacuum lines
-installed the timing cover I bought from Van the man Svenson
-Distributor & wires are in place

Left to do:
-AFM/air box install
-fabricate an anchor point for the alternator belt tensioner (I just noticed the oem one in no more since I deleted the lower balance shaft)
-tighten & torque lugnuts/check air pressure
-add some extra mounts to the exhaust

THEN WILSON WILL BE BACK ON THE ROAD.

V2Rocket

What size are your rectangular headlights?

Noahs944

4x6" I think.

Noahs944

Well the under side has never been so clean:




Here's the custom belt tensioner, simply swung the rod the opposite direction & noticed a robust chassis mount. Took a chunk of steel, drilled a couple of holes after bending it the torch & a hammer. shortened the rod length maybe 6 rotations. Solid.






After patting myself on the back for doing an honest days work I realized I forgot to install the stainless timing belt skid plate thing. Darn.

V2Rocket

no no no!
not unless you have solid metal motor mounts.

the engine moves around a lot and the tensioner needs to be attached to the engine assembly somewhere...mounted to the chassis with non-solid mounts, the first good torque will break something!

easier/better would be to make a strong tab stick down from your lower front-balance-shaft-delete plate for the tensioner rod to be positioned like originally.

Per vers

Maybe something like this

V2Rocket

^^^^^^ PERFECT


though perhaps a bit overkill...that is some thick metal !

Noahs944

Thank you guys. You know I thought of that and my mind drifted. Wasted an hour last night. GOOD CATCH V2. Thanks for the photos Per.

-Skid plate now installed under the cover.
-heat shields on near motor mount & cooler.
-schemed exhaust mounts.

Re-engineering the belt tensioner. Should have made it engine mounted not chassis mounted. Duh!

Noahs944

DONE!

V2Rocket

Per vers

Hello Spencer and Noah.

The bracket is made of 10 mm. alu. And have a weight of 100 gram.

One of the best thing with the balance shaft delete, is that you can make a cam belt change in 20 minutes ;-)