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The rear endplate is made of half an end plug. End plug cut in half and welded to the cover plate + Half of the o-ring.
The front endplate is made of a 4mm. alu plate, welded to the cover plate.
And a lot of silicone gasket
Thanks you very much Per, I think I will follow your lead here.
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Regarding other matters, I hope someone can advise:
Air management. Rather, Air/oil management. Can I improve things? I have determined that the car's cylinders don't have excessive blowby but am still nervous that there is high pressure in the crank case. How can I relieve pressure?
Here's Mattipuh's project. I notice that a lot of racers have breather set ups. What's the benefit & what's the disadvantage? Should I buy a kit or make something? Money is tight at the moment.
Don't go looking for solutions to problems you don't have...lol
High crank case pressure would lead to seals popping out, lots more oil leaking, and the dipstick might even pop out.
The AOS vented to the J-boot does a good job. The catch can is just a secondary oil-separation stage, it's real use is keeping oil vapor out of the intake because oil has the effect of lowering octane within the cylinder.
Since you aren't running boost or (presumably) very high compression/ignition advance it's not as big an issue, but it definitely doesn't hurt anything.
A "budget" solution to the catch-can question is an inline oil-air filter for an air compressor like you'd buy at Home Depot (not sure if those exist in Canada?)
Catch cans are cheap on ebay, there are a lot out there for under $50. I would be more worried about the high oil pressure you have in your head more so than crankcase pressure...I remember you making a comment before about blowing seals routinely.
Hey, now! Let's keep this civil. That sounds like a very personal lifestyle choice, and one that shouldn't be mocked on a public forum!
Hahaha very funny
Ok, Michael (or anyone else - I am bordering desperation - How would you handle the blowing of cam housing gaskets? The next repair will be fricken solid!! But not bomb proof.
I noticed Van Svenson has some sort of fitting in his cam housing that allows him to monitor pressures. Maybe I can install a fitting where the plug is and vent it out there?...
Thanks you very much Per, I think I will follow your lead here.
----------------
Regarding other matters, I hope someone can advise:
Air management. Rather, Air/oil management. Can I improve things? I have determined that the car's cylinders don't have excessive blowby but am still nervous that there is high pressure in the crank case. How can I relieve pressure?
Here's Mattipuh's project. I notice that a lot of racers have breather set ups. What's the benefit & what's the disadvantage? Should I buy a kit or make something? Money is tight at the moment.
Take a look at Dave Vizard's A series tuning manual. From memory he showed a crank breather scheme that used exhaust vac to vent the crankcase with a separator to avoid oil sucking out. Haven't tried it myself but all his other modifications are solid in my experience..
David
Well that's not true, but my clarity if MUCH BETTER thanks to a short conversation with Van the man Svenson.
Problems I've had within the last 2 years that have puzzled me about my engine:
-Hard starts/excessive fueling, particularly bad in cool weather.
-super rough idle normally & sometimes big surges to 3000 rpm
-Leaning out (sometimes only) at WOT
-Engine oil leaks.
I think the problem related back to me... no one else too blame. I compensated for a damaged air management hose by re-routing things. Turns out I used the ONLY crankcase breather (from the AOL to feed the idle air solenoid that then feed the j-boot). So if the idle air solenoid is closed (which is most the time, isn't it?) then so is my crank case breather!!!!
The second thing I didn't wrong is compress that hose on a flimsy bracket under the intake manifold.
Yesturday morning was great! I have decided on a practical way to delete the balance shafts; to physically remove them from my engine, in a way that they could always be re-installed, no damage or wrecking of parts. The problem I encountered was when removing the lower b.s. housing. All bolts came out but this one with a 10mm head (upper bolt neat the rhs engine mount).
So I removed 2 heat shields & thought if i can loosen off the engine mounts on that side so it sags, it'll buy me some clearance to get the wrench on it completely. The other thing I did was tak a cheap wrench and ground it super thin & super narrow, but still a "closed" wrench end. I was then able to pound the wrench end on with a punch & hammer & get the bolt moving, allowing me to finish removing it with the open end of the wrench. That was snug! The shaft & housing popped off easily.
BTW-an Svenson's video shows that some of the B.S. components are numbered & machined exactly to your engine... so treat them with respect.
Take a look at Dave Vizard's A series tuning manual. From memory he showed a crank breather scheme that used exhaust vac to vent the crankcase with a separator to avoid oil sucking out. Haven't tried it myself but all his other modifications are solid in my experience.. David
We use the evac aswell, still just using to keep the oil foam out of intake. Its quite alot of foam that setup takes out, had the setup tested last weekend during practice and race sessions. Better to catch it somewhere else than intake.
08-24-2015, 06:29 AM
