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Huge points for extensive use of aluminum bye the way Per. You and V2 really lead the way for me on this B.S. delete. So much weight loss of the front end. These cars are great to work on but complicated. The less **** in the road to work on these cars the better!
I stink like gasoline because I was stupid enough to replace the fuel filter. NASTY.
-I also switched to a lighter grade semi-synthetic blend. New oil filter installed.
-oddly it runs.
-so I ran it to adjust the idle adjustment since I now have the vacuum stuff routed right. Ran better than normal. I'll post a vid later. Then after changing the fuel filter, the relay died on me... Strange. My back is killing me. I am tired. I'm sick of working on junk.
The Underbelly tells the truth. After test drive, not a single drop from the cam housing or balance shaft housings. Note: the slick little starter heat-shield on the rhs is custom made from recycle dodge catalytic converter parts.
I stink like gasoline because I was stupid enough to replace the fuel filter. NASTY.
-I also switched to a lighter grade semi-synthetic blend. New oil filter installed.
-oddly it runs.
-so I ran it to adjust the idle adjustment since I now have the vacuum stuff routed right. Ran better than normal. I'll post a vid later. Then after changing the fuel filter, the relay died on me... Strange. My back is killing me. I am tired. I'm sick of working on junk.
Run thick oil, 15w-50 is the lightest i will run in the hot months, 0w-40 M1 in the winter. Your working your motor hard, you need to stick with heavier oils or you risk that #2 bearing.
Interesting discovery. Since the only source for a quick delivery on a DME relay is the dealership (and guessing $110 for a new one).
Or wait 10 days to get one from the states.
-5 minutes of messing around in the garage helped solve the problem. I now have a 100% functioning relay.
The only thing wrong with mine was a broken return spring on the DME side.
I was able to steel a spring from the old failed Porsche one.
Also, I keep a spare relay in my fuse box, for a quick replacement when I'm holding up traffic at an intersection. I thought I'd try and see if the paperclip over the 3 BIG terminals would still work even though the spring is now missing.
Answer: NO. NOT if the spring is gone from the DME side coil. BUT it will work if the spring is gone from the fuel side coil.
Happy to help! The only part that really requires "building" is the harness, assuming you replace it with something new/custom for the MS. Dougs951S has made a solid guide for a lot of the work, and my harness tips are on the last page.
Fantastic, Brother! Right now I need to finish up things like sealing the hatch and tail lights from exhaust fumes & water. Need to build windows that slide in the door channels.
Had a no start this afternoon (no fuel pump buzz sound), so I went to work & re-soldered all the relay connections. I don't think I actually repaired anything thought. Might have an ign switch on the way out.
Could this be the case??? The symptom is the fuel pump side of the relay isn't closing the circuit. If install the relay (with the cover off) and crank the ignition key & manually close the circuit plate for the fuel pump, then the car starts.
So since the relay is only 2 years old & looks fine & been resoldered & only fails sometimes at starting (never dies when running), does this sound like maybe ign switch to you?
Wow, your car is loud! Good job at putting it back together!
I always envy you because you seem to spend so much quality time with your car at beautiful & seemingly abandoned roads.
I'm surprised that you haven't thrown out the AFM yet.
Thank you very much!
Yes, this is great country. Too many traffic cops IMHO but otherwise incredible.
The AFM.
At first when I looked at the numbers I didn't really see the value in a MAF/MAP conversion. But now I think I realize that the benefit is when a car isn't at WOT, but rather on the way towards WOT, which is most the time. So my impression of MAX HP/TQ wasn't really a proper way to look at it. Whats the HP/TQ during lower rpms (& max)... you know all across the board. Having a wide band o2 sensor gauge really tells me how much better this car could be tuned than it is!!
So that is the first reason why I was slow to adapt. The 2nd reason is I looked at Roque's MAF (the kit I wanted to buy) and I thought... I could install that in 1 or 2 hours. So easy! Lemme do all the hard stuff first & once that's outta the way I'll treat myself to something that's easy.
I didn't know that Rogue was going to quit making them.
So now I'm impressed with stand alone kits but might temporarily remove my Wilk's Race Chip ECM and put my factory prom ECM, and try tune it using the wideband o2 sensor & Rogue's free Motronic software from his site. IF I can figure out the software requirements & get my old laptop to co-operate.
These are the reason's why an old clunker with spirit & capabilities (and heritage) suites me just fine. I keep myself as busy as I would with my dream car, the iconic 80's Lambo Countach.
09-02-2015, 03:08 PM
