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The 12v for that relay stage is actually provided by the battery, and is only available once the DME/injector stage (1st stage) closes. So check #1 is to see if the DME/fuel injectors are getting 12v when you have the key in run position. If they aren't the problem could be the ignition switch, the relay itself, or a bad ground.
Once the DME is alive, it provides a ground to pin 85b of the relay when it detects that engine is spinning at 200 RPM or more. If that pin isn't grounded during cranking, the problem is with the speed sensor or the DME itself, potentially the wiring in between.
For a piggyback. I use to have a LINK AFM installed in mine. I worked my way around using it and turned out to be a good little system. yes it's out dated but very simple to use. It did fine on my turbo but it wasn't the best. But i think for an N/A it'll perform well. Either can run it in replacement mode (delete AFM) or even try to put your own MAF on it.
you already have a wideband so tuning would be very easy. you can do it yourself but easier to do with a mate while your driving.
For $1000 you should be able to easily get in bed with a MegaSquirt, maybe even under $800 since you have the wideband. The tuning isn't a handheld Gameboy looking thing, you can use your laptop and it has nice tables. Plus I'll send you a good tune set up for a mild cam
Armed with a home made breakout harness and the diagram that Michael gave me I sought out to find the weak link in the starting system. It started twice & then from there only cranked, no start.
Then I observed something that has bugged me but been a low priority: my ign switch has never been aligned straight... it's always been tilted & seems even worse since my last reinstall of the dash.
So I loosened the dash mounting bolts & tried yanking it downward. Not going to happen. The Haynes manual is for early 944 cars and mine is late. How the heck can I properly align the ign switch on the steering column?
The car started 10-11 times straight... couldn't get it to fail with the dash overlay removed, so it must have been binding something.
When I had my car apart, I noticed the ignition switch is mounted to the steering wheel lock assembly. On my particular car, someone had started to remove it for some reason, and the bolts had been drilled through. It was loose and would not tighten up, so the ignition switch would move up and down quite a bit. I finished drilling out the bolts and fixed it properly, then I just kinda eye balled it and tightened everything back up, and haven't had any problems yet.
Armed with a home made breakout harness and the diagram that Michael gave me I sought out to find the weak link in the starting system. It started twice & then from there only cranked, no start.
Then I observed something that has bugged me but been a low priority: my ign switch has never been aligned straight... it's always been tilted & seems even worse since my last reinstall of the dash.
So I loosened the dash mounting bolts & tried yanking it downward. Not going to happen. The Haynes manual is for early 944 cars and mine is late. How the heck can I properly align the ign switch on the steering column?
The car started 10-11 times straight... couldn't get it to fail with the dash overlay removed, so it must have been binding something.
Weirdness.
Anyone know how to re-align the switch?
On mine, with the key out and steering locked, I can rotate the ignition assembly up and down a little bit if I crank on the steering wheel. This lets me get the ignition switch centered in the hole in the dash.
OK, I *think* I have a temporary solution to the key binding, will discuss at a later point.
DOORS/WINDOWS. I have lusted for what is below for the longest time... but I fear wind noise... I just cant see this being a quiet enough solution for a daily driver. Am I wrong?
OK, I *think* I have a temporary solution to the key binding, will discuss at a later point. DOORS/WINDOWS. I have lusted for what is below for the longest time... but I fear wind noise... I just cant see this being a quiet enough solution for a daily driver. Am I wrong?
Fabricated the "regulator" by removing the steel channel at the bottom of the window. Needed a heat gun, then used a sawzall to shorten the channel (to save weight). Then drilled a single hole in the channel & flipped the channel around for a flush mounting for the belt.
Found using a imperial nut acted as a "captured nut" in the lower channel section so install/removal is easy. Also used a big fender washer to ensure durability. Since this was a pants belt, I cut the buckle off & used the thicker part of the belt to be this mounting section... but do regret not buying a thicker belt to add durability & prevent stretch.
Hehehehe... Matti, do you know how the square hole was cut into you window? Seems like it would be very difficult to accomplish.
If remeber correctly we used dremel which was not the best way b/c generates too much heat without doing much work -> plastic melts.
Id use angle grinder if had to do it again.
09-03-2015, 09:29 PM
