odonnell

Rich, I think the spindles are pretty much interchangeable with 83-85/1 cars. After that point the hole for the speedo cable was gone. Should be able to find some guys with Parts cars, normally they're in good shape.

Tiger03447

Thanks, Michael..I'll give that a shot as well..

MistaX

Finally drove the '88! Everything was good, runs great, is pretty fast, shifts great. Until everything wasn't good.

Passenger Rear brake line broke mid drive. This car doesn't have a working ebrake.

Thankfully I only drove it a few blocks and made it home safe, but that was a pretty harrowing experience. Not the first time I've had a brake line fail, but the first in a car with no ebrake.


The line that broke is 951-355-062-03. Which Pelican says is NLA. Because why wouldn't it be.

zogster

Just tested my DIY Mk I prototype lightweight LiFePO4 battery.

Car started first time!

Original battery weight: 18kg
New battery weight: 1.2kg

Cost of parts: about £100 (mostly 8 x ANR26650M1B cells, arranged as four pairs in series of two parallel cells, with a balance and protection board)

I'm slightly conflicted about the wisdom of replacing a boringly reliable component with a homebuilt bodge that just might explode, but at least I have the option ;-)

V2Rocket

Several other mfrs for 944 brake lines, and im pretty sure an N A line will work as long as the banjo fitting is the right size.

17kg saving is serious business.
what sort of cranking amps, and what kind of amp hours can you expect vs standard battery?

zogster

Capacity is 20 Amp hours. It should be able to produce 240 cranking amps – the manufacturer data sheet for the cells says they're good for 120 amps, and with two in parallel for each of the four cell packs, that should be 240 amps, though I'm a little sceptical that the tabs on the cells are really up to that. Also there's the question of whether my soldering etc will hold up to the that kind of current. But I've started it a couple of times now without anything weird or smokey happening... of course ambient temperature is pretty comfortable, so there's no problem of cold dragging things down.

(Because the balance board I bought can't handle that kind of starting current, I used a diode to make a high-current discharge circuit that bypasses the balance and protection board. So when the battery is charging, the board is in the circuit and the beefier wires are not carrying current. When the battery is discharging the diode allows current to bypass the board.)

20Ah is only about 1/3 of the standard lead acid capacity, but I hardly ever run accessories for more than a few seconds with the engine off, so I don't think that's much of a problem.

Tiger03447

Dear Mista X I presume that the rear line that went was the flex line , not the steel one...If you decide to go with braided stainless lines be certain to inspect the banjo fittings as well as the screw in/on portion of the line. I bought some from an E-Bay vendor, and had fitting problems...they wouldn't take the lines back either, so I was able to come up with an adapter that would accommodate and fix the problem. I had exceeded their return time limit with the hoses...rather them being less than wonderful people. My fault.

MistaX

Link? I figured I had to make it myself. No one had one at Hershey (not sure I want used brake lines anyway) but I did get all the ebrake springs and hardware that this car is missing.

I wish it was the flex line. It's the steel line, it looks like it rubbed against the trailing arm. It seems Porsche planned for this and put some little rubber thing on the edge of the trailing arm just for that purpose. Or the previous owner. Somebody.

That one.

V2Rocket

I was thinking you meant the flex line too.
but hard line, go to your local auto store, they have a range of prefab hard brake tubing with fittings, take your original one to match the flare fitting type and just bend your own. Like $10 or less.

morghen

Not today but yea, I haven't been on this forum lately.
Been driving the 931 here and there, 16" phone dials offset extremes are on with Toyo T1Rs, took it for an old-timer rally/track thing.

JRP944

Removed my oil pan in preparation for the gasket replacement. Still need to pull the pump so I can reseal it while I have everything apart.

Pulled my gauge cluster so I could replaced the odometer gear that had disintegrated. Replacement of the gear went fine but of course I broke the shaft for the speedometer needle. Apparently "gently prying up on the speedometer needle" did not work so well for me. I found a local speedometer repair shop in Milwaukee so I'll give them a call this morning and see if they can fix me up. It's never easy, is it?

Justin

JRP944

Removed, cleaned and resealed my oil pump. Will install a new oil pan gasket this weekend and start putting this beast back together (again).

Found out both of the Milwaukee area speedometer repair shops don't want to mess with my busted speedometer. Called North Hollywood Speedometer and while they can fix it, it's $150 just for the speedometer motor plus the labor to perform the repair. I instead purchased a used cluster on eBay for $100 and will use the speedometer motor from that guy. Hopefully this time I won't break the needle off. Sounds like a slight counterclockwise twist of the needle is necessary when removing, contrary to the Clark's Garage tutorial which just states to simply "gently pry up" on the needle. Oh well, live and learn I suppose!

Justin

Tiger03447

MistaX: Many parts stores have copper nickel brake lines with bubble flare fittings on them as well as the metric inverted flare...Use that ..although a bit more pricey, they don't rust and are easier to bend. In Maine, they are required on all cars instead of steel lines when doing a repairs..or at least that is what I was told by some guy from Maine...seemed cogent at the time, not a maniac...as they are known in these parts..

curtisr

Got it through its Safety Certification without a hitch. Another 924s lives to see another few kliks.

MistaX

I'm not going to go too crazy about it since I'm not keeping this car, and I do actually intend to make money on it. If this happened on my '84 I'd probably replace all the lines with whatever is the fanciest and most expensive and best, but this isn't that car. That said I'll fix it right, because I can't half-*** anything and then expect to sell it for what I want/what I think it's worth. I already bought a spool of steel line, a tubing bender, etc. Just need the right fittings, since I think I bought the wrong ones. (I bought M12 x 1.0 bubble thread, I think they're supposed to be M10 x 1.0, but I haven't actually checked) Should be done tomorrow.