odonnell

It's the real deal stuff, if you look at a lot of new German cars this is what the harnesses are wrapped in. No more corrugated sleeve for me.

Dan Martinic

How did you get those scores... on 100% stock?? New cat?

V2Rocket

TESA tape is used in aviation wiring too.

Dan,
Stock DME + AFM, all vacuum and air hoses replaced with new rubber, new intake manifold gaskets, newer O2 sensor, brand new catalytic converter.
Can't speak for other places, but California smog check is really super easy to get through.
People that complain about it and continuously fail are either just lazy, or stupid...
Amazing that making the car run like it did when it was new, makes it pass smog like when it was new...

Cam was still advanced 2 degrees for this test - in a previous smog year I tried a few different cam positions and it made almost no difference in emissions.

Dan Martinic

Ahh.. I bet the new catalytic is the biggest reason. In November, I also had new vacuum lines, new intake gaskets, and new O2 sensor; it failed CO. In fact, the CO got a little worse on my second try (after changing O2 sensor). Of course, there are day-to-day differences at time of testing.

And, my testing history shows a gradual decline over the past 10 years. During clutch work, I removed my original catalytic and it's crumbling inside.

I got a "like new" replacement... so when this thing finally starts, it'll be interesting to see the result. Car is bone stock. Ok, I got rid of the CV and put an MBC. Cheating a little lol

V2Rocket

my previous cat still passed but the numbers were higher, i had been using it for 6 years or so i think.
then i started getting this rattle in my exhaust and found out the cat matrix had melted and a chunk fell out
...so thats why i got a new one, lol

MistaX

Reset the fuel pressure because idiots with adjustable FPRs are dangerous. Pegged the gauge @60psi with pump jumped, set it back to 36psi.
Put 5 gal of fresh 93 in. And a whole can of Seafoam.
Thought it would start after that, but nope. Cranks, kinda catches, but no run.
Started the usual checklist.
Tested speed/ref sensors, swapped in known good AFM, tested alarm box, swapped DME relay, checked for spark with spark tester.
All of that is good.
Pulled plugs 2-3-4, plug 1 is stripped or something, need more time on that one. All 3 carbon blacked and smell of fuel.

I thought I'd have this car done by now but nope, nothing is ever that easy.

V2Rocket

will it catch "more" with a little gas pedal opening?

look around carefully and make sure all vac/air hoses are connected

vandal968

I've been driving at least one 944 or 968 continuously since 1993 (around 400,000+ miles). I've only had two issues that have made them hard to start.

1. A worn cap and rotor will make it not even attempt to fire but ONLY in very cold temperatures (snow on ground) and it would always start fine a few hours later once the sun heated things up. In fact, I started using this phenomenon as my change interval in the 944 since I used to ski a lot. Procedure: never change cap and rotor. If it ever doesn't start on a cold morning, start it a few hours later in the afternoon and drive to auto parts store for new cap and rotor. Repeat every few years.

2. Bad diaphragm in fuel pressure reg which made the car go way rich (which sounds like it might match your observations). You could smell the fuel in the vacuum line, and hooking a mityvac to the reg and pulling vacuum would make things wet. Until the cause was found, following the normal "flooded start procedure" (ie: throttle to the floor and not moved while cranking) got it started in the least amount of time, but it could take a while, like 20+ seconds of continuous cranking.

HTH,
c

MistaX

This car has the bare minimum of vac lines connected. Smoke tested it, seems tight.

It starts with starter fluid. Sputters and dies, but starts.

I took the cap and the plug wires off my 84 and put them on prior to using starter fluid, acts the same.

I might take the injectors out of the 84 and try them.



Edit:

RUNS. Took the injectors out, "flow tested" them by turning the key with them out, and watching them. Put them back in and it started.

Seems to have a constant miss on cyl 3.

kirkandorules

Finally replaced my front struts, a project that had been delayed many times due to more urgent things popping up. I broke one of the eccentric bolts while removing it, had to get a generic Autozone replacement (which are kinda crap, not surprisingly) temporarily until I can get a new set ordered. Amazingly, I didn't screw up camber too much, but will have to make adjustments tomorrow.

And now, I find myself shopping for camber plates. They look cool, but...I would probably use it a couple times a year!

Mikelly

Returned the rear brakes to stock, removed the stock Ebrake hardware along the way. Removed the s2 brakes from the front as well as the hubs/spindles and installed refurbished stock brakes/pads/bearings/seals/rotors and pads. Spec944 requires stock everything. I also did tie rod ends and will be doing new struts/springs/purches.

OhioMatt

One of the horizontal 'flaps' was missing from the center vent closest to the driver. Drove me nuts seeing that little gap!

I bought a complete assembly off eBay with the intent to swap the whole thing, but mine was actually a little nicer so I just popped the piece out I needed from the eBay assembly and snapped it in.

JRP944

Replaced my fan thermo switch. Now I don't have to pull the fan relay anymore when I shut the car off!

ealoken

Tiger03447

I was finally able to get both front calipers back together after fiddling around with the heavy wire guide...Put in the new pads and cross-latch pieces. Then I steamed cleaned on the belly for another couple of hours...and then went into the engine bay for more cleaning time..It's getting there..slowly... since the weather has warmed up a bit I can spend more time in the shop. YAY!