Attachment 957899
Drove to a Concours d'Elegance 30 minutes away from my house, and promptly broke down and had the engine die on me upon arrival to the parking lot. That was almost 4 hours ago. Thought it was my DME relay and tried my spare to no avail. Most likely a very bad ignition switch.

I've been waiting with a friend for a tow truck to arrive for the last hour...

 

That's too bad, Karl, as well as embarrassing. Hope that it's just the switch and not something worse.Sounds like something I need to put on my never-ending "to do" list.

 

Was able to finally get everything back together after the change from early to late offset suspension and removal of all compliant bushings, coil overs (no torsion bars), M030 brake upgrades, for a drive. Still needs an alignment, but it is great to be back in the car again.
Brakes are a huge improvement, ride is much better than expected - maybe a just a little harsher than my mini.
I also was able to replace the oil pan gasket, oil cooler gasket, etc. earlier in the year.
Ready now for some driving events!

 

I had a weird experience yesterday.

I took my girlfriend out for a sushi date. It was 95F, and the 944's AC blew wonderfully cold. I had just put HVAC filter material over the ventilation intakes, to try to freshen up the air being brought into the cabin.

Upon starting the car to drive home, now the HVAC only blew full hot! AC wouldn't do anything, and I had to close up all the vents and open all the windows and sunroof.

I got online, and found an old thread here, showing the broken clip to the ventilation controls by the driver's right knee. Sure enough, that clip was broken, and the control rod was off. I zip tied the rod into place, and the AC seemed to work once again. I am just wondering if I disturbed a fragile vacuum connection while putting on the cabin air filters. Guess I need to get under the vent cowl and replace all vac lines under there.

 

Driving it....may replace the ancillary belts tonight. I have some new ones stretched over a bucket.

Rolled over 94 last night and running fab.


Rotors are soon...original. Pads are at their atomic half-life..so I should get a pad wear dash light in the immediate future.


edit..installing the new belts and I have yet another power steering fluid leak!! lol pos

 

Just got my brake goodies from Pelican, trying to get it all in today (rotors, pads, SS lines, sensors & fluid).. Will post pictures of finished product later.

 

Went for a long sunday cruise and worked on the fuel injection tuning...it's coming along slowly but steadily. Need to add more fuel at the high load areas and lean out the cruise areas more.

 

Getting ready to lift her up to swap the high pressure line...looking for my new washers hoping the banjo bolts cooperate and those line mounts on the top of the crossmember. DexIID is on hand...lots.

I have some funky thing going on at the intermediate shaft at the firewall and I never got a good smack at the inner tie rod tang...or installed the passenger side steering assembly....or the compensation tube... Going to be a long night of stinky red stuff.

 

reinstalled headlight harness, drove around, washed it, and waxed it for the first time since painting it in 2011 lol

 

Done with the pressure line. I had to use the brake line bender to get the mounting clasp aligned. New compensation line tapped in nice.

Poured a half of a quart and getting ready to see what leaks I created by fixing one....the way she goes. .

 

Finished all dissassembly for water pump and timing belt replacement this weekend.
Taking a break to contemplate whether I replace the front seals or not.

 

As for whether or not you should do the seals WYIT, just remember the magic words: "Do it, do it, do it."

 

For what the seals cost and the relatively minimal extra effort to replace them while you've got everything apart, it's really tough to justify not replacing them.

If you've got higher miles on your engine, I'd recommend replacing the oil pump drive sleeve and the balance shaft sleeves/spacers as well. Mine were nicely grooved when I replaced them at just shy of 200K. A new seal will still leak if the sleeve is grooved.

 

I spent Saturday Afternoon taking the angle grinder to my paintwork.

I had a blistered 3" square rust pod of infection on the lower driver's door corner. There are also some small rust blooms on the leading edge of the rear quarter panel at the door frame. And, there was a 5mm deep, 1" round (like how i mix my measurement formats?) hole and crack in the front lower airdam.

I've never been exactly skilled with Bondo, and haven't even tried since i was 16. My first car was patched with sheet metal, pop rivets and bondo to pass PA inspections.

80 grit grinding wheel, a bath in naval jelly, Bondo Gold, 80, 120, 360, 600, 800, 1000 and 2000 grit dry and wet sanding stages.

Sorry, I haven't taken any pictures. I need to hit it with some orbital polish to try to merge the sheen levels. Looks pretty obvious right now, but I hope that I can get old and new finishes close. I'm very impressed with the airdam fix. Can't even tell, other than the newer paint and clearcoat.

 

I've only got 64k miles on it. Is there an option to replace only the brownish/orangeish colored seals and not the sleeves? Thanks.