What did you do to your 924/944 today
02-27-2015, 05:58 AM
#6226
Three Wheelin'
I have no doubt Eric. I have read that turbo housing needs to be ground back a little to clear intake. Can I assume that this has been done or does it not need it ? Any info you could provide Eric, about fitting this Turbo would be appreciated
02-27-2015, 05:53 PM
#6228
Race Car
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Austin TX, drinking beer in the garage
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Added in 2% fuel to curve below 40*, it was really cold today and the car was a hair lean everywhere.
Super happy with my cold start and cold idle on a cammed out E85 fed car running huge injectors.
Super happy with my cold start and cold idle on a cammed out E85 fed car running huge injectors.
02-28-2015, 02:41 AM
#6229
Freedom Enthusiast
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Yes, that has been done. If you look at all of the areas around where the bolts go into the compressor housing, you will see that the one on the top has been ground down a bit. It cleared my intake just fine.
You will need to bend your water pipe a little bit to make it fit around the housing. I just used a propane torch and heated the pipe red hot and bent it with a pair of pliers. I did it when the turbo was installed in the car. Be careful because it will try to bend sharply around the metal bracket/flange attached to the side of the pipe. I included a picture with the bend I made circled in yellow.
I had a 3" Speed Force Racing downpipe and mounting that to the turbo was FUN(heavy sarcasm)!!!!!
It may be easier to mount a factory downpipe but if you do go with a bigger downpipe, everything should be ready to go.
To make it fit I had to file down the washers that should still be with the turbo. that is why they have flat sides. The flat sides were right against the downpipe wall. The bolt right under the curve of the downpipe was also a real treat to deal with(more sarcasm). I could not get a normal "L" shaped hex wrench to fit under the curve of the pipe and into the hex slot on the bolt so I had to cut down the short side of the "L" to get it to fit. I cut off a bunch with a hack saw and then I filed it down to fit.
I forgot one thing I had done to the turbo. When I first received the turbo there were broken bolts stuck in the turbine housing. No typical machine shop would touch it. I had to find a machine shop with an EDM machine to get the bolts out. EDM is precise down to .0002". You have the cleanest threads of any Vitesse turbo on earth.
02-28-2015, 06:09 AM
#6230
Three Wheelin'
Cheers Eric. Great info and very helpful, espesh the pic. Hopefully go on next week. Just praying issue with car is the turbo and so this brings her back better than ever 
03-02-2015, 09:05 AM
#6236
Rennlist Member
Installed a Club Sport steering wheel in my S2. I like it!
I still need to track down an electrical connector to get the horn working, however...
^^ Oh, and those "RS" door panels are sweet!
I still need to track down an electrical connector to get the horn working, however...
^^ Oh, and those "RS" door panels are sweet!
Last edited by SpeedyC2; 03-02-2015 at 10:46 AM.
03-02-2015, 11:41 AM
#6238
Three Wheelin'
03-02-2015, 01:22 PM
#6239
Rennlist Member
Installation is not bad, but not entirely straight-forward either.
You need a separate part (928-652-104-00) to make the physical connection to the horn ring on the hub of the new steering wheel. You then have to cut the horn wire going to the existing rotary contact (which will not be reused) and figure out how to attach this wire to the back on the horn contact, on the backside of the multifunction switch. This is the part I haven't worked out yet.
To "fool" the airbag warning light, I inserted a 3.9 ohm resistor into the female end of the airbag module plug (leading to the removed rotary contact) and secured it. I have not yet had time to re-set the airbag warning light, so I don't know if the airbag light will stay off but it should...
Outside of the above steps, it was simply removing the old wheel and putting the new wheel on. That part is easy!
You need a separate part (928-652-104-00) to make the physical connection to the horn ring on the hub of the new steering wheel. You then have to cut the horn wire going to the existing rotary contact (which will not be reused) and figure out how to attach this wire to the back on the horn contact, on the backside of the multifunction switch. This is the part I haven't worked out yet.
To "fool" the airbag warning light, I inserted a 3.9 ohm resistor into the female end of the airbag module plug (leading to the removed rotary contact) and secured it. I have not yet had time to re-set the airbag warning light, so I don't know if the airbag light will stay off but it should...
Outside of the above steps, it was simply removing the old wheel and putting the new wheel on. That part is easy!
