Spyder RS driving/ownership impressions
#196
Comparing my 992 GT3 vs my 718 Spyder both manuals, GT3 is far more responsive at low rpms (not need to mention past 6k rpms). The Spyder had cat-back that improved the low end response but they were night and day for me in reaction, Gt3 feels agile, 718 still had some delay climbing rpms below 6k rpms, so I don’t know if it was the torque, the lighter flywheel or both. Maybe the 6MT can mange the GT3 engine torque, but in feeling looks like much more torque than this 10%.
Let see how I feel with the Pdk of my incoming SRS, I’m a manual guy and got bored with other Pdks, I wanted this engine so much in a Spyder that will be a fair trade off
Let see how I feel with the Pdk of my incoming SRS, I’m a manual guy and got bored with other Pdks, I wanted this engine so much in a Spyder that will be a fair trade off
#198
that doesn't bode well for the New Yorkers based upon that story I read last week about a guy with a stock 997 getting a noise ticket.
#199
I don't see why you can't work it one side to the other.
Passenger side:
pop fin, remove wing
close fin
open door
pop weather cover rivets
unclip weather cover bits
pop tensioner
close door
move to other side
pop fin, remove wing
close fin
pop trunk
open door
etc
Does this not work for some reason? You might need to go back to passenger side to smooth out the top after placing into position before closing trunk, I guess.
do all that same stuff over there
Passenger side:
pop fin, remove wing
close fin
open door
pop weather cover rivets
unclip weather cover bits
pop tensioner
close door
move to other side
pop fin, remove wing
close fin
pop trunk
open door
etc
Does this not work for some reason? You might need to go back to passenger side to smooth out the top after placing into position before closing trunk, I guess.
do all that same stuff over there
The following users liked this post:
McClown (05-20-2024)
#200
It's actually could be a better car for NY'ers. The sound is more focused as an interior sound, not exterior exhaust sound. Yes I know this is a convertible but I'm wondering if the intake sounds would even trigger the sound tickets the same as a loud exhaust. Stock exhaust is relatively quiet, not sure of the dB but I don't think it should trigger the ticket unless their limits are really low.
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348SStb (05-20-2024)
#201
I thought Cali had exhaust noise limits, but I was in LA for work recently and I heard what is possibly the loudest car I have ever heard! OMG lol At 5 in the AM, no less.
#202
Tips:
1) Place towels down on either fender when removing the Soft-Top. No matter how careful and good you are, it’s a useful safety measure. Sometimes those rigid bars want to kiss the paint because they haven’t folded down enough. Be real careful and watchful of their position when placing the top into its cavity. Before removing from windshield, angle each of them back and bend them on their joints.
2) Another thing to watch out for are the plastic caps on the ends of the bars (which are hollow). Those caps pop out inadvertently and can literally disappear. They aren’t obtainable individually either (I checked with the parts department). I bought some plastic-metal epoxy at Home Depot which is good up to 250 deg F, and I glued those babies in place after some arduous effort was spent retrieving on which fell into one of the vehicle’s black holes. Glue those caps! And be careful to not get any of that glue onto the fabric — take the necessary precautions during the job.
#203
This Soft-Top is genius. The way it was engineered is pure genius. It’s so easy to do, and it doesn’t take more than about 90 seconds.
2) Another thing to watch out for are the plastic caps on the ends of the bars (which are hollow). Those caps pop out inadvertently and can literally disappear. They aren’t obtainable individually either (I checked with the parts department). I bought some plastic-metal epoxy at Home Depot which is good up to 250 deg F, and I glued those babies in place after some arduous effort was spent retrieving on which fell into one of the vehicle’s black holes. Glue those caps! And be careful to not get any of that glue onto the fabric — take the necessary precautions during the job.
2) Another thing to watch out for are the plastic caps on the ends of the bars (which are hollow). Those caps pop out inadvertently and can literally disappear. They aren’t obtainable individually either (I checked with the parts department). I bought some plastic-metal epoxy at Home Depot which is good up to 250 deg F, and I glued those babies in place after some arduous effort was spent retrieving on which fell into one of the vehicle’s black holes. Glue those caps! And be careful to not get any of that glue onto the fabric — take the necessary precautions during the job.
#204
Ha, I don’t see the margin potential for tiny plastic caps for the few hundred owners worldwide (out of maybe 2000 after production ends) who would buy them. This would have to be a labor of love by an altruistic owner/enthusiast.
#205
Definitely not a business opportunity, but an opportunity to make a few people very happy about being able to get a missing part.
The following 2 users liked this post by rcfun33:
348SStb (05-20-2024),
Ferrarisimo (05-20-2024)
#206
This Soft-Top is genius. The way it was engineered is pure genius. It’s so easy to do, and it doesn’t take more than about 90 seconds.
..... Another thing to watch out for are the plastic caps on the ends of the bars (which are hollow). Those caps pop out inadvertently and can literally disappear. They aren’t obtainable individually either (I checked with the parts department). I bought some plastic-metal epoxy at Home Depot which is good up to 250 deg F, and I glued those babies in place after some arduous effort was spent retrieving on which fell into one of the vehicle’s black holes. Glue those caps! And be careful to not get any of that glue onto the fabric — take the necessary precautions during the job.
..... Another thing to watch out for are the plastic caps on the ends of the bars (which are hollow). Those caps pop out inadvertently and can literally disappear. They aren’t obtainable individually either (I checked with the parts department). I bought some plastic-metal epoxy at Home Depot which is good up to 250 deg F, and I glued those babies in place after some arduous effort was spent retrieving on which fell into one of the vehicle’s black holes. Glue those caps! And be careful to not get any of that glue onto the fabric — take the necessary precautions during the job.
There were 2 parts that were often lost the plastic end caps as pointed out above but also the end caps rubber of the carbon piece.
See attached threads. The plastic end caps can be sourced and the rubber end caps of the carbon piece could be 3D printed in plastic
https://rennlist.com/forums/987-981-...t-is-this.htmlhttps://www.shapeways.com
https://rennlist.com/forums/987-981-...l#post17121513
https://www.poeppelmann.com/en/kapsto/products/detail/gpn-320/
The following 2 users liked this post by JPMD:
Ferrarisimo (05-20-2024),
McClown (05-20-2024)
#207
I promise I will 3D model one if anybody needs it eventually (and after I get my car so I have a template).
#209
RL Community Team
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From: Texas Hill Country