Any Rennlisters from New Zealand?
#6436
Drifting
I just ordered a set of Endless ME22's over ME20's on Mike at Prosportauto's advice. They are a track pad. The ME22's behave themselves well on the road.
The MX72 are more a road pad for occasional track.
Looking forward to trying them out.
The MX72 are more a road pad for occasional track.
Looking forward to trying them out.
#6437
Rennlist Member
And as for the 993 RS - well in my opinion, next the the 3.3 Turbo S, it is probably the best looking 911 ever.........
Who cares how fast they are, I would just sleep well in the knowledge they are in my garage.........
Their value is in emotion they provide. If you talk to Ron, he reckons the 991 Turbo S is truly amazing - far superior to his 997T, but when we went to look at the car displays, everyone here went to the older cars.
Even though the 991 Turbo S would p*ss over any of the other cars...........it may as well be a Toyota........as it was boring.......
Who cares how fast they are, I would just sleep well in the knowledge they are in my garage.........
Their value is in emotion they provide. If you talk to Ron, he reckons the 991 Turbo S is truly amazing - far superior to his 997T, but when we went to look at the car displays, everyone here went to the older cars.
Even though the 991 Turbo S would p*ss over any of the other cars...........it may as well be a Toyota........as it was boring.......
You often mention the 3.6T etc. If you sold your C3.0 and bought a 3.6T would you go to the track and do the targa? Isnt that why we are here and on RSG and why we are chatting? If we were the concourse group we probably wouldnt even be on here.....
I envy Ron & Patsys approach. They use their cars exactly how they ere intended to be used. The GTR has 50k km on it and 45k km of that is 6 targas and 15 track days. The 997 is similar. Ron has a 991 to go to work and a cayman which get used for his sunday drives. They buy those cars use the heck out of them and update them. They spend as much on events and consumables over the cars lifetime as the depreciation on those cars and if they wants a 2.7RS, 964RS, 993RS they could surely afford the best they could find any time they like. I love my old Porsches and Im always joyful to get through an event without them failing. They just get in them and drive. Everyone is different but this is how Bill Farmer, Ray Barker etc used their new cars back in the day - the ones we covert today. Its not how I would do it personally but I do admire their approach. The choose with their head I guess.
If you had an open chequebook for a single P car to own and enjoy for the next 20 years - just one single car what would it be. Any budget any (realistic) price? CGT? 959? ST? RSR?
This probably says something about my personality but I would order a bespoke Singer with 3.9L 400 bhp engine upgrade and got to LA for three months and become absolutely involved in the build and design process. Total cost including donor and registration on NZ roads? $650,000.00 - Id drive it every day, track and Targa and to the shops too LOL!
John. When did your 3.6T last have canaruba wax?
#6438
Rennlist Member
Macca, I used Mothers in 2003. I think that has some of the good smelly stuff. Just registered for the Porsche Club annual lunch. Whimped out of any concours entry but will give it a good clean, including a wheel off polish.
#6439
Rennlist Member
Your car runs 2 pot rear calipers vs 4 pot front. Did you consider running 22 on teh backs and 20 on the front - may pull the bias up at the back a bit better and give a bit more stability under straight line braking?
I went with the RS rear calipers over the turbo ones as they have larger pistons (40 v 36mm). The extra rear braking capability is noticeable. Some people out some more bite into the front pad to bring it back more to factory spec but other with a more similar braking style to me like the extra rear braking. My factory rears are 299mm the new ones 322mm. You can see the pad area difference on this picture. The far left is factory rear pad running now and the next on the right is the RS caliper pad.
You cant easily change the brake proportioning valve on the car but you can use the pad compound to put some additional braking on the real axle instead of changing the size of caliper/disc (wear rate may be more aggressive).
Of course all the above is theory as Im not good enough to know any difference but around 9 months ago when I started this lark I as a well known guy on rennlist who has huge 993 track experience help me on a program to set my car up better for the rack whilst not compromising for the road. Bill is regarded a bit of a master at this and Ive been following his advise to the letter to date (including Geo, suspension etc). Seems so far to be good advice (I think LOL!)
#6440
Rennlist Member
Id say you may be due another good wax John. The car too looking at the water on that paint LOL!
#6441
I'm not sure long term mate, depends if I move back to NZ or not. I will keep it and use it as a track day toy and drive while I'm back in NZ until I land on either the US or Auckland as next permanent dwelling, then make a call.
#6442
I've got the ME20s and even they aren't too noisy around town, but then my around town isn't like everyone else's around town.
#6444
Drifting
Dave. I did the opposite LOL! MX72 ordered three weeks ago should be here next week along with the new brake calipers, anti squeal spiders and contact wires. Im not having any braking issues with the current set up and didnt want the noise or I would have considered the ME20/22 set up. I think with the larger brakes I probably dont need to worry about compounds as much.
Your car runs 2 pot rear calipers vs 4 pot front. Did you consider running 22 on teh backs and 20 on the front - may pull the bias up at the back a bit better and give a bit more stability under straight line braking?
I went with the RS rear calipers over the turbo ones as they have larger pistons (40 v 36mm). The extra rear braking capability is noticeable. Some people out some more bite into the front pad to bring it back more to factory spec but other with a more similar braking style to me like the extra rear braking. My factory rears are 299mm the new ones 322mm. You can see the pad area difference on this picture. The far left is factory rear pad running now and the next on the right is the RS caliper pad.
You cant easily change the brake proportioning valve on the car but you can use the pad compound to put some additional braking on the real axle instead of changing the size of caliper/disc (wear rate may be more aggressive).
Of course all the above is theory as Im not good enough to know any difference but around 9 months ago when I started this lark I as a well known guy on rennlist who has huge 993 track experience help me on a program to set my car up better for the rack whilst not compromising for the road. Bill is regarded a bit of a master at this and Ive been following his advise to the letter to date (including Geo, suspension etc). Seems so far to be good advice (I think LOL!)
Your car runs 2 pot rear calipers vs 4 pot front. Did you consider running 22 on teh backs and 20 on the front - may pull the bias up at the back a bit better and give a bit more stability under straight line braking?
I went with the RS rear calipers over the turbo ones as they have larger pistons (40 v 36mm). The extra rear braking capability is noticeable. Some people out some more bite into the front pad to bring it back more to factory spec but other with a more similar braking style to me like the extra rear braking. My factory rears are 299mm the new ones 322mm. You can see the pad area difference on this picture. The far left is factory rear pad running now and the next on the right is the RS caliper pad.
You cant easily change the brake proportioning valve on the car but you can use the pad compound to put some additional braking on the real axle instead of changing the size of caliper/disc (wear rate may be more aggressive).
Of course all the above is theory as Im not good enough to know any difference but around 9 months ago when I started this lark I as a well known guy on rennlist who has huge 993 track experience help me on a program to set my car up better for the rack whilst not compromising for the road. Bill is regarded a bit of a master at this and Ive been following his advise to the letter to date (including Geo, suspension etc). Seems so far to be good advice (I think LOL!)
#6446
Rennlist Member
This is quite an interesting graph as it shows identical lap times but with different cornering technique, especially on turn 10 with double apex racing ray line vs steve's continious curve. There is a HUGE speed difference during the corner, yet we end up at the same speed down the straight. I know Pete's C4 is quicker than my car in a straight line, assuming your car is as quick, this means the double apex gives a quicker back straight speed at the cost of mid cornering speed?
#6447
Three Wheelin'
Graeme, a few pics of your car on PCNZ Facebook, but not enough! Are you going to post some here?
As for your post, you pretty much nailed it. One ride in Steve's 964 brought home how focused a car needs to be to go that fast. I will do minor enhancements to the C4 but it will clearly remain a road car, as will the Turbos. Still like the idea of a race car, but it would have to be a ready built one. I'll keep an eye out.
As for your post, you pretty much nailed it. One ride in Steve's 964 brought home how focused a car needs to be to go that fast. I will do minor enhancements to the C4 but it will clearly remain a road car, as will the Turbos. Still like the idea of a race car, but it would have to be a ready built one. I'll keep an eye out.
#6448
Rennlist Member
This is quite an interesting graph as it shows identical lap times but with different cornering technique, especially on turn 10 with double apex racing ray line vs steve's continious curve. There is a HUGE speed difference during the corner, yet we end up at the same speed down the straight. I know Pete's C4 is quicker than my car in a straight line, assuming your car is as quick, this means the double apex gives a quicker back straight speed at the cost of mid cornering speed?
#6450
Drifting
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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This is quite an interesting graph as it shows identical lap times but with different cornering technique, especially on turn 10 with double apex racing ray line vs steve's continious curve. There is a HUGE speed difference during the corner, yet we end up at the same speed down the straight. I know Pete's C4 is quicker than my car in a straight line, assuming your car is as quick, this means the double apex gives a quicker back straight speed at the cost of mid cornering speed?
Unfortunately didn't get time to practice it afterwards and my performance was awful during the training with Ray chatting in my ear. Have trouble with concentrating on too many things at once.
To really tell the difference I think you need the same car and try it both ways, maybe you and Steve do a run I the same car and then compare the results of turn 10 afterwards?