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Orthojoe's GT4 track thread and ramblings

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Old 05-17-2016, 11:08 PM
  #421  
ShakeNBake
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Originally Posted by katmeho
The spread is what we want most to understand pressures and if we are over driving the car. That spread is going to be theoretically close to how it is when the tires are at max temp, even after a cool down lap. But yes, it's a trade off.
I find that the relative temps, and resulting profile, back in the paddock, still allow you to make a decision on pressure.

here's a spreadsheet setup to plot the gradient across the face of the tire.

Tire Pressure Check.xls

This pressure/gauge and pyrometer combo is genius. Makes quick work of checking with a 3-point memory for all four corners.

http://www.longacreracing.com/produc...15&prodid=7339
Old 05-17-2016, 11:33 PM
  #422  
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About the comment on mid-corner understeer. My understanding is that means the front is too stiff and that stiffness could be coming from a number of different things. Do you think that maybe you were coming in too hot or maybe the tire pressure was too high?
Old 05-17-2016, 11:56 PM
  #423  
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So have we come to any conclusion of what trie temps generally work best?
I have seen a lot of numbers thrown around, 32psi hot???
Old 05-18-2016, 12:46 AM
  #424  
orthojoe
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Originally Posted by STALKER99
So have we come to any conclusion of what trie temps generally work best?
I have seen a lot of numbers thrown around, 32psi hot???
For which tire?
Now that you bring it up, what pressures are guys running with re71r?
Old 05-18-2016, 12:47 AM
  #425  
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Originally Posted by ML///
About the comment on mid-corner understeer. My understanding is that means the front is too stiff and that stiffness could be coming from a number of different things. Do you think that maybe you were coming in too hot or maybe the tire pressure was too high?
Corner entry - oversteer
Mid corner - beautiful neutral
Corner exit - understeer
Old 05-18-2016, 12:55 AM
  #426  
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Originally Posted by ChrisF
My only data point so far is with the ME20's. 4 days Sebring, 1 day Thunderhill West; 2 days Buttonwillow; maybe 5K light street miles. Fronts near gone. Rears still very thick.

Front rotors are showing microscopic cracks but WAY less than 997.2 GT3 rotors with equal wear. Some uneven surface wear on rotors; might require turning if there is plenty of thickness. Rears look new.
Front rotors nearly gone or front pads?
Old 05-18-2016, 01:39 AM
  #427  
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Originally Posted by STALKER99
So have we come to any conclusion of what trie temps generally work best?
I have seen a lot of numbers thrown around, 32psi hot???
I'm on Cup 2s and have found 35-36 on track (34-35 when measured back in the paddock immediately after parking) to work very well. Dunlops seem to like lower pressures, in the 32 hot range from what I've read here. I'm curious to hear RE-71R findings too. I have 33 hot in my notes, which I would only have written based on a post from an experienced driver here using those tires.
Old 05-18-2016, 02:57 AM
  #428  
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Originally Posted by Yargk
Front rotors nearly gone or front pads?
Rotors seem fine; it's the pads.
Old 05-18-2016, 07:06 AM
  #429  
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After two days at LRP, I found the RE71r's happiest on my car at 33# f & 35# r hot. Pyro readings pretty uniform at @165 +\- across the tire. Wear is very even. Front bar is soft, rear middle. RE71r's get greasy over 37-38s# hot.
Old 05-18-2016, 09:05 AM
  #430  
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Originally Posted by morefun
After two days at LRP, I found the RE71r's happiest on my car at 33# f & 35# r hot. Pyro readings pretty uniform at @165 +\- across the tire. Wear is very even. Front bar is soft, rear middle.
After 3 days @ LRP on RE-71Rs I agree for the most part.
No pyro readings, but the tires come "alive" (for me at least) anywhere from 29-32 hot front and 30-34 hot rear for me. Above 35 is the tipping point for greasy rears, but as noted below at 38+ its going to affect your lap time.

I have been starting in the low 20s cold otherwise they get up too high.
22 cold front and 24 cold rear has been working but I still usually have a bleed off a little from the rear as the day/track warms up. For LRP specific cold I do:
22DF 23PF
24DR 25PR

I don't even bother with circuits mode anymore since it won't allow sub 26 PSI tire pressure. I just drive with the stupid yellow ! on the gauge and I set my LCD gauge to display tire pressures all the time with the occasional toggle to the coolant and oil temp display on the straight. It's been a very cool spring here in CT and engine temps are a non issue.

My bar settings are soft front hard rear.

Originally Posted by morefun
RE71r's get greasy over 37-38s# hot.
Agree 100% BUT when they do get greasy, it's very easy to drive around it.
When the Dunlops got greasy (right at 35PSI was like a light switch) it was bad. I had to either slow down a lot or pit in and bleed (usually not enough time left in session) or just end the session early. The RE-71Rs I can keep going just dial it down one click from full pace.

What kind of times are you running @ LRP morefun?
Old 05-18-2016, 09:23 AM
  #431  
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Originally Posted by orthojoe
For which tire?
Now that you bring it up, what pressures are guys running with re71r?
Sorry, should have mentioned that. Cup 2s.

Thanks.
Old 05-18-2016, 10:42 AM
  #432  
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Originally Posted by jphughan
I'm on Cup 2s and have found 35-36 on track (34-35 when measured back in the paddock immediately after parking) to work very well. Dunlops seem to like lower pressures, in the 32 hot range from what I've read here. I'm curious to hear RE-71R findings too. I have 33 hot in my notes, which I would only have written based on a post from an experienced driver here using those tires.
JP, I have the Dunlops, They seem to be in the sweet spot at 33psi
Old 05-18-2016, 10:50 AM
  #433  
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Originally Posted by Jenner
After 3 days @ LRP on RE-71Rs I agree for the most part.
No pyro readings, but the tires come "alive" (for me at least) anywhere from 29-32 hot front and 30-34 hot rear for me. Above 35 is the tipping point for greasy rears, but as noted below at 38+ its going to affect your lap time.

I have been starting in the low 20s cold otherwise they get up too high.
22 cold front and 24 cold rear has been working but I still usually have a bleed off a little from the rear as the day/track warms up. For LRP specific cold I do:
22DF 23PF
24DR 25PR


What kind of times are you running @ LRP morefun?
My cold pressures are very similar to yours, I have them recorded but not here at the office...

Still learning the car, turning consistent mid/low 1:03s and some 1:02s, PB 1:02.4. I'll be happy once I'm in the 1:01s with my daily driver!

Car is stock but for alignment by SST, rear toe links and front pucks. Oh yea, a DSC module and Ferodo DS1.11 pads

Agreed, tire pressure monitoring system is more trouble than its worth!

P.S. I love this car! It is awesome out of the box.
Old 05-18-2016, 11:21 AM
  #434  
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Originally Posted by morefun
Still learning the car, turning consistent mid/low 1:03s and some 1:02s, PB 1:02.4.

Car is stock but for alignment by SST, rear toe links and front pucks. Oh yea, a DSC module and Ferodo DS1.11 pads
All stock suspension for me. Stock pads too. How do you like the Ferodo pads? I am trying to decide between the PFC and Ferodo for about the same $ or thinking the RT RE10 make more sense for more money but will last longer...

Ran a 59.8 on Monday but I think there at least another second for me to find before going to better pads and getting serious about the suspension bits and alignment.

I've been at LRP a lot but haven't crossed your path...which club(s) do you run with? The only GT Silver I've seen out there is Alex (he bought your Cup2s)
Old 05-18-2016, 11:30 AM
  #435  
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The Ferodos are good, show no wear. I've run PFCs in the past and opted for a change. They don't offer the feel of the PFCs I've used in the past including '97s, '01s, '06s, '08s. No experience with PFC '11s. I've been lazy and left them in the car on the street and they work fine cold, slightly nosier than stock with half the dust of stock pads.

59.8 is v quick! Throw on some HooHoos and you will be in the 57s, damn good at LRP for a street car. I doubt I'll ever see that with me at the wheel. Simon, no problem!

I run with CVR in black, cut back to 4-5 track days a year since 2012. Just enough to get the cob webs out but not enough to "improve". Still having fun though...


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