DeerHunter

I bought a needle-style tire pyrometer a while back and have used it sporadically. Beyond the obvious issue of having to pit in the middle of a session and then test and record twelve individual temperatures, I'm also concerned about heat-soaking the brakes coming in sans cool-down lap. How do people handle things here? Can you still get useful readings testing in the paddock after the session is over? I know temps won't be at their peak, but they might still show relative levels across the tread face.

orthojoe

That is the trade off. You do have to pit in while hot with no cool down to really get a gauge.

jphughan

The Cup 2 is a triple compound tire (PSS is dual), which in both cases was done to preserve grip at the limit while improving the treadwear rating over their predecessors (180 Cup 2 vs 60 Cup 1 and 300 PSS vs 220 PS2). So if the RE-71R can grip as well or better than the Cup 2 while lasting longer both according to both the (admittedly unreliable) treadwear rating and owners' actual track experiences, and all with a single compound design, it's all the more reason to be amazed with that tire. Can't wait until they're available in stock GT4 sizes!

orthojoe

Triple? Didn't know that. Re71r looks to be the holy grail right now. Can't wait to try them out in less than 2 weeks

Jenner

They really are incredible.

Was just at Lime Rock Park for 3 days straight on the 19" RE-71Rs. I also had 3 days previously on the OEM 20" Dunlops. I set a new PB on the RE-71Rs!

I feel they have the same grip as the Dunlops, same or better communication, half the wear and half the price. I can't believe they are considered 200 treadwear STREET tires. Never been this pleased before with a tires performance vs price vs life.

I can't wait for you to post your experience on them.

ExMB

Right now I'm running the PFC11s on AP J-hook rotors. 4 track weekends with 4 sessions a day and this combo holds up very well IMHO. I measured the pads and they are @ 8.5 mm versus 12 mm new. So based on those numbers and orthojoe's posted history these pads should last approximately another 8 weekends on the tracks I go to. After that I will switch to the DS1.11 and see what results I get there.

katmeho

The spread is what we want most to understand pressures and if we are over driving the car. That spread is going to be theoretically close to how it is when the tires are at max temp, even after a cool down lap. But yes, it's a trade off.

ChrisF

Regarding diff ramping, I took what Tecce and Matt at Guard recommended (50/50). I'm not exactly a student of diff tech and maybe either of these gentlemen could chime in to give us a 101 class.

For the PFC11's, are they similar to the 08's in noise? Similar bite?

For the track rats out there, has anyone gone thru a set of rotors yet? I've found so far that the rotors seem much less prone to cracking than on my 997.2 GT3. They seem to be holding up really well. Will take a thickness measurment next time the wheels are off but guessing the ME20's are much less harsh on rotors than what I had been previously using.

Very much want to try the RE71's. usctrojanGT3 was crazy fast on them and they last too.

orthojoe

Pfc11 much more quiet, better and more consistent bite than pfc08. I'm pretty sure pfc08 destroyed by Brembo type3 rotors on the spyder prematurely too

STLPCA

^This. However, I've taken readings for others & had friends take my readings many, many times in the hot pits with no cool down and no issues. With a decent memory pyrometer (I use an Intercomp) all 12 readings take under a minute.

TRAKCAR

FWIW on RS, I did 20 very hard braking days when I replaced my OEM front rotors.

They still had many days in them, I would guess front rotors to last 30 days on a GT4. Rears forever, mine don't even look used. The brakes are so much stronger than 997, I don't see a reason to upgrade.

PFC11 on my RSA you drove, now after a week of DD the car they squeal as they do.
The RE10 start to squeal lightly but I haven't been on the track a while. 4 hard stops probably fixes it.

The RE10's last minimum 50% longer than PFC11 and I would guess closer to twice as long. I think, but have no proof that the RE10's make rotors last better due to cooler temps.
Not much initial bite until they warm up, so in daily driving no bite until a good hard stop is made.

GT4's are probably looking at pads and Rotors every 20 days, maybe stretch out the rotors another 10 days and forget rear brakes exist :-)

Jenner

I've got 6 track days at LRP on stock rotors/pads (5 30 min sessions on average) only upgraded fluid and lines so far. Only 2000 miles on my GT4.

Pads are getting low...need to measure but haven't had time yet. Guessing 1/3 pad left on fronts about 50% on rears. Front rotors are showing lots of minor cracks from the holes, but thickness seems untouched. I expect to run into touching cracks or cracks to rotor edge long before thickness issues. Rear rotors have no cracks.

Anyone else have stock rotor info? I'm curious to know how much life I have in the rotors to see if I can get away with just switching pads for now.

myBailey07

14 Days out of front rotors and then replaced with AP Racing. 24 Days and counting on oem rears.

PFC11's seems to give me around 14 days on the front. Rears also now have 24 days on and counting.

Based on this I concluded my car does not have rear brakes lol!

ChrisF

My only data point so far is with the ME20's. 4 days Sebring, 1 day Thunderhill West; 2 days Buttonwillow; maybe 5K light street miles. Fronts near gone. Rears still very thick.

Front rotors are showing microscopic cracks but WAY less than 997.2 GT3 rotors with equal wear. Some uneven surface wear on rotors; might require turning if there is plenty of thickness. Rears look new.

katmeho

with the ME20s with less street miles and 5 track days, Fronts are mid way with through. Although they squeal like a pig now after warming up on the street. I must have some build up, been a few weeks since I was on the track. Starting to see the smallest rotors lines on the fronts.