^ some ppl cannot face reality and are 911 huggers.

 

Thanks for chiming in. Sorry, just haven't had any track days come up that will work with my schedule. It doesn't look like I'll be able to hit the track again until 5/28 at the earliest. Ugh...

Your gauge is just fine. The low level warning is based on how fast you are burning fuel/mpg. It is programmed to trigger a warning when only a certain range is left based on your mpg. On track your mpg plummets, so the trigger will go off much earlier. The warning is based on range, not fuel level. It's annoying. I don't know of a way to shut it off.

I don't have any complaints about the pads myself, but thunderhill isn't very hard on brakes at all. I plan to swap to project mu club racer pads for Laguna on 5/28

Yes, not once has the back end broken loose on me with corner exit on the car. I need to get on the power even sooner

I'm not sure I follow what you are trying to say. I have left ESC and TC on so far since it hasn't interfered at all with my driving.

Yeah, i'll admit that I initially thought I would just leave the system off and heel toe on my own, but I've found that the autoblip is more reliable than me, so I've been leaving it on lately. I guess it is cheating. I really should turn it off so I don't get rusty with heel toe.

Tell me about it! I'm WAAY behind on my pace from last year.

 

Other than the low range warnings discussed here, I had wrong fuel gauge reading once. It happened after the car spinned 360 (in the paddock). After restarting the car, fuel gauge showed 1bar only in the red zone. It wouldn't go away even if I restart the engine. I tried driving for a while but it still showed 1bar so I was concerned. I went to fill up the tank. I was only able to put in a few gallons so the tank was nowhere near the 1bar range. The gauge started to work properly after the refuel. Not sure what happened there. Maybe the excessive G force from the spin messed up the fuel sensor position. Luckily this never happened again nor did I ever spin the car in the paddock after that.

 

Spun in the pits....lol!

 

I was going to ask about that, but decided to rather not...

Still wondering about it though...;-) Especially since it was a high g-force spin...

 

Below are pics of my front tires after one day at Thompson Speedway. This is a clockwise track with 11 turns, 3 left, 8 right. Fairly tight turns and a longish main straight.

My set-up:
OE Cup 2's
Rear monoballs
-2.5 front camber
-2.0 rear camber
DSC Sport module
Front sway - middle
Rear sway - stiffest

Joe, I am seeing the same wear pattern as you on my front left. This is after five sessions and 73 1.7 mile laps with about 2000 street miles.

I am going to swap front tires for the next track day, but this looks like it will be only 2, may maybe 3 track days out of the front tires.

Have a set of front Cup 2's waiting in the garage since I had read about the the wear problems.

Left front


Right front

 

I was my first time on track with the GT4. I used to drive a AWD DSG audi so there was a lot getting used to in the new car. It was pouring hard and the traction is very limited in the cup2. So my instructor decided to do some emergency training in the paddock to show me what happens when you push the car beyond its limit. Car understeered but didn't spin no matter how much gas I gave as long as TC is on. I tried really hard to break it completely lose but it didn't work at least at low speed. Once TC is turned off then all bets are off. It snapped into a spin. So I now leave the TC on all the time.

 

Don't junk the tires prematurely. Unless they're clearly heat-cycle out, the tires still have life in them even after the grooves in the outer third of the tire are completely gone.

 

Makes sense. I only have 6 HC's on them so far. Ran Trofeo R's last year and was able to get about 25 HC's before I hit cord.

Thanks

 

Heaps of life left on those mate. You'll get 24 cycles out of them if you rotate them...

 

Yeah, I wondered why he was showing us brand new tires

 

^^ +1

 

Yes, I would swap tires left to right if you are going back to another CW track next. The problem is that tread ring in the central portion of the tire that is being 'windswept' or 'washed' sideways. The tread is beveled now. I have the same problem and I'm stuck between raising the tire pressures to decrease outer edge wear or lowering pressures to decrease the central 'ring' from being swept away. GT3 does the same thing. It's a result of the tread design of the cup2s. TrofeoR don't do this and the rears dont do this because the central 'rings' are much thicker/wider, I believe.

 

Probably switch to Trofeo R after the cup 2's are done.

In the PCA Clubsport Setup sheet it shows camber -3.5 front and -3.1 rear. It also says "slick 2 bar" which even know though the sheet is in German seems to mean slick tire pressure should be 29 PSI?? I assume hot?? Granted racing slicks have stiffer sidewalls than Cup 2's so pressures that low may by unworkable. But, with more camber and less pressure it would seem to move the wear more to the outer ribs and adjust the angle of the center rib so that you decrease the beveling? The Clubsport camber is probably too aggressive for a street driven car, but maybe the excess inner treadwear from a very aggressive camber setting and lower pressures would work would be a good tradeoff for less beveling?

Running 34 hot in the front now. May try running lower front pressures at Limerock next week and see what kind of tread temps and wear I get. Limerock is 6 rights and one left CW track, so harder on the outer front left. Will see how it goes.

 

I don't think you can extrapolate any info on tire pressures from a clubsport running totally different tires, but nonetheless I think trying a lower pressure might not be a bad idea.

For the record, I hate trofeoR. Way too fussy with pressures, and while the Front tires last longer, the rears on the GT3 will wear out after 2 track days.