John Mclane

Good to know my issue is not unique. I'll be changing the date as well.

When I say it's the one you want, that's the option that let you do module per module (list in overview). *** will not shut off with a single change on DME, I tried. I was successful using the additional menu (F7), maintenance of data, F12 twice, search for the option code that refers to start stop, drop down and select without (or similar). f8 to save, move to the next screen where all the modules are listed, select all, next, automatic coding. Freak out when it does nothing for a bit, freak out again for whatever blink or noise. When done, read and delete errors. The *** icon will no longer be there.

runbuh

I guess this is clear explanation of the kind of power you need (50+ amps) when hooking up an external power source. It's amazing what you can find when you just open your eyes.

runbuh

Well - this is a small bit of a fuster-cluck. After going the "Additional menu" route and following through with the automatic coding of all modules (which does take a while), I only have the following to show for it:

- TPMS is on the fritz. It's not measuring anything. Even after driving a couple of miles at speeds > 15mph, setting the tires to winter, driving a couple more miles, setting back to A/S tires, then driving a couple more miles, there is no measurement. I need to go RTFM.
- I have Fault Memories that cannot be cleared
- AUTO START STOP IS STILL ACTIVE. I can no longer add start/stop to the home panel on the central PCM screen, but I can assign it to the diamond key, and it is definitely still shutting off my engine. Fark fark fark.

I'm gonna let the car sit for a bit (like an hour) and see what happens.


Faults I can't delete (yet)

Edit: I used PIWIS 39.8 to do this work.

John Mclane

I'm sorry this happened.
You can always swing back the options and re-code back to stock. I had to do that with a similar issue regarding options that I did not had hardware for.
I managed to get rid of the *** using the alternate menu, without any errors afterwards. Baby steps, one or two options at a time. I also noticed that there's a propensity for errors the lower the battery is, even with an external charger. This is worse with the AGM battery on the 992 than on the Lithium on the cayenne. My guess is that the current (A) requirement is very stringy for code writing.

runbuh

No need to apologize, but I appreciate the tips. Due to the length of the procedure, I knew that running off the battery was not an option, so I did this with the engine running. That likely contributed to the problem(s). I just need to get some external power.

When you disabled the ***, was it immediate, or did you have to let the car sit? When doing BMW codings, sometimes you'd have to let the car sit (and go completely to sleep, which takes a while) before changes would take effect.

John Mclane

It was out of commission immediately. I think your problems are related to code with the car running. External power and re-code. It's a pain, makes the coding session an event.

I run 75A. The lithium battery on the cayenne transfer voltage nicely to the modules as it gets charged. The AGM on the 992 has a lag, and voltage in the modules (although the dashboard indicates 14.4v) drops to a point that I have to stop coding. That's very annoying and complicated things. There's an entrance on PIWIS where you "tell" the car ECU that there's an external power source. I'm yet to fiddle with that. The PCM for instance shuts off if the voltage is below 12v. Soon after that the whole car shuts off.

runbuh

Ok - mine is on order. Are you using the smart charging mode, or the fixed mode?

John Mclane

I spoke directly with the maker (name gave to me by batterystuff guy) and he told me for coding stick to fixed mode. It works well, no low battery or lack of voltage in modules so far.

I may use the smart mode a couple of hours before start coding, changing to fixed mode at that time. This way the battery is juiced up from the get go.

Remember not to overcharge the battery by leaving in fixed mode without consumption (eg turned off), that's dangerous.

John Mclane

Changed the date to 1/1/2020 (good days, feels like 15 years ago) and it came back to life. My guess is that the driver expired.

runbuh

Excellent. Driver, certificate, both - who knows. Something is definitely date sensitive.

Quick follow-up: TPMS is back online after letting the car sit for a couple of hours. I guess lesson learned here is patience. Not really one of my virtues. Since this is my wife's car, that makes me feel a lot better. It's best if she stays operational with no warnings/chimes/whatever telling her something isn't working. She'll fire the CIO if that keeps up.

Now I just have to wait for the external power supply to get here from Oregon...

John Mclane

I know exactly how you feel. Disturbances to the boss must be kept to a minimum.

I noticed that the PIWIS doesn't read values when the battery is not optimal, so you really need the battery charger. It's a good unit, well built as fair as I can tell. I wanted the 100A but that would drop the fuse in my garage, well alerted by the batterystuff guy. Always good to have a proper battery charger for emergencies.

John Mclane

Some can tell what's missing... for research purposes only, of course...

The car came back with newer software as the v38 generated a lot of errors when trying to automatic coding from the additional menu (F7). Had to redo using v39 and it went better. Activate the traffic sign recognition (available on the HUD menu only) which I think it will require extra module coding.
*** off works. 8G4 (matrix) also done, but it's difficult to tell. I think I saw some light flickering around some bends but nothing like the videos in the internets. The problem is that the threshold for working is high. It's gotta be particularly dark and curvy path.
Also activated Scandinavian DRL (rear lights on with the DRL). Gotta check tomorrow at day light.

All my prior coding for the HUD, CarPlay, disclaimers etc got rewritten. Will redo later this week.

runbuh

Are you saying that you had some work done on the car recently?

Note that you will not be able to get the full matrix behavior with your non-matrix lights. Just changing the setting you changed will enable intersection lighting and automatic high beams, which is good stuff. Your setting now looks like my car, which came from the factory with the matrix headlights. However, what you can't enable that way, is this:
https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-...l#post17103436

That's something I eventually want to figure out.

John Mclane

What's not in the picture is the ***. Gone for research purposes only.

I have matrix HL, to get it to do what the ad material says, you need curvy dark. It acted differently from before when tackling some minor bends in the area. It's not the highlight turning on but a flickering towards the inside of the curve, before I turned, so I think it's working.

Otherwise, you can't see it doing much as it's dependent on darkness. If you live in an urban area, that can be difficult to come by. Tells a lot about how useful this thing is.

runbuh

I understand that *** is missing. What I don't understand is what you meant by "The car came back with newer software". Came back from the dealer with newer software (the software running on the car itself, not the PIWIS version you needed to use to code the car).

The matrix light features that we don't get in the US have little to do with curves, and everything to do with the lights cutting off in certain areas as cars approach. For countries that drive on the right, for example, the right side of the road would stay on "high", but the left side would selectively dim, providing a darkened/unlit area around the oncoming traffic (or even the car in front of you).