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Installed mine this weekend following the youtube video from mr12volt (not that great to say the least!). Even though I had posted here before, my phone must have skipped through most of the thread because I hadn't seen some key info listed above. Had to contact Roman for one issue that I haven't seen mentioned here before... my Cayenne does not have an amp so no current MOST optical cables. The supplied Y cable does not work with nothing to hook one end to. With confirmation from Roman, I removed the one section and made a simple single version. Just pretend that it didn't take me a bit to realize there was a cover on the connector on the mr12volt unit where the MOST cable attaches
Easy overall install - works great. I need to play with the settings and look up how to add additional cameras. A front camera will be very handy!!!
working on a new video!
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Modernize your P-Car w/ Mr12Volt. Apple Carplay and Android Auto with superior audio quality, features, and support. Reach out for specials! Torque.Acs@gmail.com or Roman (267) 317-8229
That's funny, I got stuck on that MOST cover on the blue box too. I went so far as removing the pcm to double check my connections. I felt like a dumbass when I finally realized the cap was there.
You are not alone. I recall I had to call Roman as I was sure I somehow had the wrong box or missing a part or something.
So I'm tinkering around with the equalizer and am trying to dial it in to my liking. What is everyone's config looking like? I listen to lots of Soul/R&B, so I favor deep lows/mids. Also, is anybody touching/adjusting these values below? I'm no audiophile, but if these benefit at all with some tweaking, I'm interested in playing around with it with some guidance.
So I'm tinkering around with the equalizer and am trying to dial it in to my liking. What is everyone's config looking like? I listen to lots of Soul/R&B, so I favor deep lows/mids. Also, is anybody touching/adjusting these values below? I'm no audiophile, but if these benefit at all with some tweaking, I'm interested in playing around with it with some guidance.
Just installed mine yesterday in my Panamera (Bose sound system) and was looking around for any settings people were using. Not seen too many examples yet.
It's going to depend on a lot of factors which relate to your equipment, vehicle's interior, and most importantly your own ears. There won't be a one size fits all EQ profile unfortunately, but the best advice I can give you for this type of EQ is to only subtract from the 0 point at each level. Since this is not a true DSP controlling an amplifier signal, you can't really add beyond a maximum level. So if you add a lot of dB to certain frequencies, what's more likely to happen is that you get signal clipping because it's now requesting a higher signal voltage than can physically be sent, and what you're going to get out of it is distortion. For example, if you want to boost the 63Hz and 80Hz frequencies by 5dB because you like your music to be a lot more bass heavy, you are actually a lot better off subtracting 5dB from every frequency except for 63Hz and 80Hz because now it's never going to try to send a higher voltage signal than it's physically able to, and thus will not ever clip/distort. This same philosophy will apply regardless of which frequencies you're wanting to target, but a good starting point could be to subtract 5 or 6db to every frequency, and then start playing some music you're familiar with at a comfortable level (usually 75dB is a good listening volume, you can use a smartphone to get a good enough idea of this level). From there you can just play around with it and add back frequencies where it sounds like it's lacking. Just have to set aside some time to test different things and see how you like how the sounds changes!
Hi. What is the story with backup camera? I have 2013 CD with Bose. Trying to see what will and won't work before making the decision.
Anyone in the carolinas that does installs?
It's going to depend on a lot of factors which relate to your equipment, vehicle's interior, and most importantly your own ears. There won't be a one size fits all EQ profile unfortunately, but the best advice I can give you for this type of EQ is to only subtract from the 0 point at each level. Since this is not a true DSP controlling an amplifier signal, you can't really add beyond a maximum level. So if you add a lot of dB to certain frequencies, what's more likely to happen is that you get signal clipping because it's now requesting a higher signal voltage than can physically be sent, and what you're going to get out of it is distortion. For example, if you want to boost the 63Hz and 80Hz frequencies by 5dB because you like your music to be a lot more bass heavy, you are actually a lot better off subtracting 5dB from every frequency except for 63Hz and 80Hz because now it's never going to try to send a higher voltage signal than it's physically able to, and thus will not ever clip/distort. This same philosophy will apply regardless of which frequencies you're wanting to target, but a good starting point could be to subtract 5 or 6db to every frequency, and then start playing some music you're familiar with at a comfortable level (usually 75dB is a good listening volume, you can use a smartphone to get a good enough idea of this level). From there you can just play around with it and add back frequencies where it sounds like it's lacking. Just have to set aside some time to test different things and see how you like how the sounds changes!
Hmm this now makes sense given that the Master Volume level also needs to be adjusted to alleviate distortion as well. I have mine set all the way down to 14 or 15 to prevent distortion when I'm turning the **** up, and it seems good there. Adjusting the EQ with the same mindset for consistency only makes sense!
It's going to depend on a lot of factors which relate to your equipment, vehicle's interior, and most importantly your own ears. There won't be a one size fits all EQ profile unfortunately, but the best advice I can give you for this type of EQ is to only subtract from the 0 point at each level. Since this is not a true DSP controlling an amplifier signal, you can't really add beyond a maximum level. So if you add a lot of dB to certain frequencies, what's more likely to happen is that you get signal clipping because it's now requesting a higher signal voltage than can physically be sent, and what you're going to get out of it is distortion. For example, if you want to boost the 63Hz and 80Hz frequencies by 5dB because you like your music to be a lot more bass heavy, you are actually a lot better off subtracting 5dB from every frequency except for 63Hz and 80Hz because now it's never going to try to send a higher voltage signal than it's physically able to, and thus will not ever clip/distort. This same philosophy will apply regardless of which frequencies you're wanting to target, but a good starting point could be to subtract 5 or 6db to every frequency, and then start playing some music you're familiar with at a comfortable level (usually 75dB is a good listening volume, you can use a smartphone to get a good enough idea of this level). From there you can just play around with it and add back frequencies where it sounds like it's lacking. Just have to set aside some time to test different things and see how you like how the sounds changes!
Asking so I can learn... doesn't the Mr12Volt act like a DSP? I was under the impression that one of the many advantages of this solution versus others is the fact that it has this built in EQ that could be used to fine tune how it sounds (as is if it were a DSP). I am familiar with separate DSP units and amps that have a built in DSP, but I'm unsure if by getting this solution my local audio installer (using his Audio Control RTA) would be able to better tune my stock Bose system (using the Mr12Volt EQ vs. the stock "bass & treble") without adding any distortion. I'm under the impression that Mr12Volt offers the best audio quality of all third party solutions for CarPlay and part of it is due to the "DSP/EQ" it comes with. Perhaps I'm confused, but I was under the impression that "boosting" (adding dbs to a certain frequency range) to suit how the speakers respond (flat, if that is your goal) did not automatically mean adding distortion.
Hopefully @Roman ACS could clarify for us what are the exact EQ/DSP features that Mr12Volt offers and if boosting any specific frequency does in fact introduce distortion. Not doubting you @RhinoComp , just wanting to confirm. I do know you have spent quite a bit of money in upgrading your audio system in your Cayenne, so I am certain that quite a bit of research went into it before doing so.
I'd love to help on this aspect but I am not an audiophile. My experience lies in the installation. I've never personally messed with the eq settings. I'll ask my rep.
Hi. What is the story with backup camera? I have 2013 CD with Bose. Trying to see what will and won't work before making the decision.
Anyone in the carolinas that does installs?
Thanks
Backup cameras work like they did before. Nothing is lost.
Asking so I can learn... doesn't the Mr12Volt act like a DSP? I was under the impression that one of the many advantages of this solution versus others is the fact that it has this built in EQ that could be used to fine tune how it sounds (as is if it were a DSP). I am familiar with separate DSP units and amps that have a built in DSP, but I'm unsure if by getting this solution my local audio installer (using his Audio Control RTA) would be able to better tune my stock Bose system (using the Mr12Volt EQ vs. the stock "bass & treble") without adding any distortion. I'm under the impression that Mr12Volt offers the best audio quality of all third party solutions for CarPlay and part of it is due to the "DSP/EQ" it comes with. Perhaps I'm confused, but I was under the impression that "boosting" (adding dbs to a certain frequency range) to suit how the speakers respond (flat, if that is your goal) did not automatically mean adding distortion.
Hopefully @Roman ACS could clarify for us what are the exact EQ/DSP features that Mr12Volt offers and if boosting any specific frequency does in fact introduce distortion. Not doubting you @RhinoComp , just wanting to confirm. I do know you have spent quite a bit of money in upgrading your audio system in your Cayenne, so I am certain that quite a bit of research went into it before doing so.
Let me clarify what I mean regarding it being a "true DSP" (digital signal processor) since that can be kind of confusing. The Mr12Volt has an equalizer that is still a very handy tool for customizing and even correcting some frequencies in the system to your liking. However one main difference between its EQ and a true DSP is where it's going to be in the path that your audio signals travel to get to your speakers as well as control over individual speakers.
Now something to understand, pre-amplified audio signals are generally sent as an AC signal and are typically low voltages between 0 and +/-5V (varies, but just as an example). Your lowest volume signals/quietest parts of a song are closest to 0V, and your maximum volume signals are +/-5V. This range is the physical limitation that the radio can transmit a signal to the DSP if present or in most systems directly to the amplifier. In our example audio system the Mr12Volt is the original audio source, so it is the first thing in line. The equalizer built in is modifying the base audio signal in the same way it would further down the chain, but it has a ceiling of +/-5V that it cannot go above. So let's say we want to add 20% to a certain frequency on the EQ. If that frequency comes up at a "louder" part of a song it will now try to request +/-6V at that moment, but it physically can't. So it clips that signal at the maximum +/-5V and what you hear because of it is distortion. And since this is a pre-amplified signal, this is present regardless of what volume you're actually listening at because the amplifier is what controls volume, not the signal. Now since this signal is going to the PCM and not directly to the amplifier, the PCM still has to work to convert this signal to something it can understand in its own limits. So the reason I would advise you only subtract dB from points on the equalizer is because it's now never going to try to modify the audio signal in a way that would request a voltage higher than it can actually process.
A DSP is taking this signal input and splitting it up to feed a multi-channel amplifier. The big benefit here is that now every speaker has its own equalizer and with something like the mObridge DSP and amp combo I've got in my vehicle is that it has 1024 adjustment points per speaker channel. Mostly what this is used for is to make sure my amplifier isn't wasting power and energy trying to amplify a 50Hz bass note and send it to my tweeter channel that's only playing frequencies above 3,500Hz, but it can also be used to "correct" the response of an individual speaker that may have a natural dip in response say around 450Hz and make the speaker have an entirely flat response. This level of adjustment just isn't something you can do at the more relatively basic level that the equalizer in the Mr12Volt can do, but if you prefer your music to have a more "V-shaped" response like a lot of listeners it's absolutely capable of tackling that sort of thing to provide some listening improvement over the factory PCM. In my case before I went head over heels into upgrading my system, I even was able to subtract 1 annoying frequency out of my audio that made listening a lot more pleasant as well! If I recall correctly, I had just done -6dB to the 160Hz band and it helped the Bose midrange door speakers to sound a lot cleaner by quieting down a frequency they just don't like playing very much. Stuff like that make the equalizer feature very useful! On top of the fact that it's hugely more precise than just turning up the bass or treble in the PCM menu.
Also most importantly, the reason the Mr12Volt provides the best audio quality is not due to the equalizer, it's due to the fact that it's the only solution that directly ties into the MOST25 bus in the PCM which allows for a lossless transmission of the fiber optic audio signal. The other audio sources within the PCM like the AUX and AUX BT busses are very lossy/compressed which are what compromise audio quality. And these sources are what the other CarPlay solutions are using for audio.
Let me clarify what I mean regarding it being a "true DSP" (digital signal processor) since that can be kind of confusing. The Mr12Volt has an equalizer that is still a very handy tool for customizing and even correcting some frequencies in the system to your liking. However one main difference between its EQ and a true DSP is where it's going to be in the path that your audio signals travel to get to your speakers as well as control over individual speakers.
Now something to understand, pre-amplified audio signals are generally sent as an AC signal and are typically low voltages between 0 and +/-5V (varies, but just as an example). Your lowest volume signals/quietest parts of a song are closest to 0V, and your maximum volume signals are +/-5V. This range is the physical limitation that the radio can transmit a signal to the DSP if present or in most systems directly to the amplifier. In our example audio system the Mr12Volt is the original audio source, so it is the first thing in line. The equalizer built in is modifying the base audio signal in the same way it would further down the chain, but it has a ceiling of +/-5V that it cannot go above. So let's say we want to add 20% to a certain frequency on the EQ. If that frequency comes up at a "louder" part of a song it will now try to request +/-6V at that moment, but it physically can't. So it clips that signal at the maximum +/-5V and what you hear because of it is distortion. And since this is a pre-amplified signal, this is present regardless of what volume you're actually listening at because the amplifier is what controls volume, not the signal. Now since this signal is going to the PCM and not directly to the amplifier, the PCM still has to work to convert this signal to something it can understand in its own limits. So the reason I would advise you only subtract dB from points on the equalizer is because it's now never going to try to modify the audio signal in a way that would request a voltage higher than it can actually process.
A DSP is taking this signal input and splitting it up to feed a multi-channel amplifier. The big benefit here is that now every speaker has its own equalizer and with something like the mObridge DSP and amp combo I've got in my vehicle is that it has 1024 adjustment points per speaker channel. Mostly what this is used for is to make sure my amplifier isn't wasting power and energy trying to amplify a 50Hz bass note and send it to my tweeter channel that's only playing frequencies above 3,500Hz, but it can also be used to "correct" the response of an individual speaker that may have a natural dip in response say around 450Hz and make the speaker have an entirely flat response. This level of adjustment just isn't something you can do at the more relatively basic level that the equalizer in the Mr12Volt can do, but if you prefer your music to have a more "V-shaped" response like a lot of listeners it's absolutely capable of tackling that sort of thing to provide some listening improvement over the factory PCM. In my case before I went head over heels into upgrading my system, I even was able to subtract 1 annoying frequency out of my audio that made listening a lot more pleasant as well! If I recall correctly, I had just done -6dB to the 160Hz band and it helped the Bose midrange door speakers to sound a lot cleaner by quieting down a frequency they just don't like playing very much. Stuff like that make the equalizer feature very useful! On top of the fact that it's hugely more precise than just turning up the bass or treble in the PCM menu.
Also most importantly, the reason the Mr12Volt provides the best audio quality is not due to the equalizer, it's due to the fact that it's the only solution that directly ties into the MOST25 bus in the PCM which allows for a lossless transmission of the fiber optic audio signal. The other audio sources within the PCM like the AUX and AUX BT busses are very lossy/compressed which are what compromise audio quality. And these sources are what the other CarPlay solutions are using for audio.
Thank you very much @RhinoComp for that comprehensive response. I am a firm believer that knowledge is power and you just made everyone here a bit more powerful!!
For those of you using Mr12Volt, could you confirm if the EQ settings allow you to manually select a specific frequency range and adjust it, or is it "fixed" regarding the frequencies that can be modified? How many bands does it allow you to modify? Does it allow you to time align each specific speaker in the vehicle (Bose equipped, not Burmester)? I can only assume, but rather not, that it allows basic adjustments (besides the "X" bands EQ) such as balance and fader.
I fully understand that 99% of users are content with bass/treble/fader/balance, but for those who may want a bit more, but without going overboard...., this may be of help. Before I got my GTS, I was about to get a MB G500 and this was the head unit that I had in mind to use as a "source" for the rest of the system:
. Take note from 8:16' to ±10':40" to see if those of you who have Mr12Volt have the same flexibility as this unit. That unit has NOTHING to do with a Mr12Volt... Just sharing to see the comparison as it pertains to the DSP/EQ portion of it ONLY...
11-28-2023, 06:59 PM
