00 Scrub

Hi cdixon, thanks for making that document. It is very well done and very helpful. I was able to access the FAL and swap the 13bar pressure switch. I'm waiting on my PIWIS to get here and try out some of the system tests and confirm that the axle lift was re coded correctly.

Only history I know about the FAL is that it was coded out since the dampers were replaced with an aftermarket set by a previous owner. I re installed the stock dampers and had a shop reactive the FAL. I'm not 100% sure it was done correctly but I was getting Lift malfunction messages and the light would not turn off after the button was pressed.

I"m OK applying 12V to the motor, but I'm a bit busy to tear the bottom of the car apart right now so I'll wait for the PIWIS to diagnose further. If I get some time before it shows up I'll see if I can take the belt cover off. Thanks for the tip.

Regarding the inline filter was the issue related to the filter element or the case? If it is the case I imagine it isn't too difficult to design a robust enough case.

00 Scrub

I was finally able to hook the vehicle up to a PIWIS 3. I did the following:

1. Code the vehicle type to GT3 w/ lift function (the previous coding was set to some number value set to 5xxxx). When completed it said coding failed but every time I restarted the PIWIS or car it showed the correct GT3 w/ lift function value.
2. I tried actuating the pump and did not hear it run. I only heard a click. PIWIS reported function aktive.
3. I tried actuating the lift function and nothing occurred other than hearing the solenoid valve click. PIWIS reported OK
4. I tried actuating the lower function and nothing occurred. PIWIS reported OK
5. I had a 801b error. It had a count of 50 times. I cleared the fault.

I guess my next step is to check the relay in the back for the pump power. Is there a best method to test the relay?

cdixon

If it were me I’d do a quick test by hooking a 12v battery or power source directly onto the FAL 12v compressor motor power terminals. It’s the centre plug of the three electrical connectors on the FAL (check my document for polarity) If you hear the motor run then look towards the car (rear fuse box relays).

I’m reading this on phone but the fact that the valves can be actuated with PIWIS is encouraging.

Also it seems that the coding did stick with respect to the vehicle type GT3 with FAL. From memory mine flagged a code fail but it then recognised the car as having FAL

00 Scrub

Hi cdixon, I'll try hooking up a 12V source next. Do you have an idea of the current draw? I want to make sure I provide a powerful enough source.

cdixon

Hmm,

Really good question, it’s been a few years since I tinkered with mine but from memory 16A should cover it?

I don’t have the documents to hand, but what is the fuse in the back fuse box rated to for the FAL motor?

Also if you can make the 12v motor turn over when you apply power. While you are under the car check the FAL compressor motor belt. It’s under the black cover.

00 Scrub

Looking back it says it's a 40A fuse. I imagine the loading on the motor is much less than that.

cdixon

Don’t worry too much the point of the test is to check the compressor motor runs.

00 Scrub

I was able to hookup a 12v supply to the leads of the connector and I got no response from the compressor. I had a 12V, 15A supply. The graph I found showed that should be good for 15bar.
Does anyone know what type of motor is driving the compressor? The industry chassis article only mentions that it is a 12V DC motor by Ventrex attached to a TSC200 compressor.
I'm guessing I have to drop the entire unit and start to dig into the wiring to the motor and maybe see if the motor windings/brushes are bad.

Anyone else have a motor go bad on them?

00 Scrub

I guess I could check the thermal switch. Does anyone know if that is a normally open or normally closed switch?

cdixon

If you put 12v feed directly onto the centre terminal which is the motor feed you will bypass the thermal switch. If you look at my document you will see the thermal switch is pinned to one of the other two plugs.

I did try to research the motor, but not that successful. I attach a photo of the motor and part number

00 Scrub

Thanks again cdixon. I forgot I was bypassing the thermal switch with the terminals. That makes sense now.
I'm going to make new leads to clamp onto the 12V inputs terminals to make sure I was getting goo contact. I'm not 100% my alligator clips were clamping in the limited space very well.
I know the system used to have pressure in it as when the FAL was first turned on and the lines unplugged air came out of them. I believe the dealer even told me the compressor was running, but I was not 100% sure.

cdixon

Yes the connections in that plug are very tightly arranged. I did a little research and managed to find the plug that fits it to make up a fly lead.

00 Scrub

Well I tried again and got nothing and got an open circuit with my multimeter. I think I'll drop the unit next.
cdixon do you know the mfg and PN of the connector and contacts? It wouldn't hurt for me to also make a flying lead for further testing.

cdixon

I’m travelling at the moment, but I’ll look through my old notes tomorrow 😀

cdixon

I found a picture i took of the plug on the car that connects into the motor power plug on the FAL.

It has the Part number 1J0973752

If you google this it does throw up results :-)