Elliotw44

To my understand they did not. The mechanic did say it was a bit tough to get to the switch. Only $270 in labor. So maybe 1.5-2hrs.

silviaks

Please Please post a DIY when you guys get to the install @bonehead @00 Scrub Thank you!

00 Scrub

I'm a bit confused. I swapped my 13bar pressure switch today and the behavior didn't change (can't press the lift button to lower the nose and never get the lift message on the dash). My 13bar switch was covered in oil, I even ran the system with the switch removed to help try and push out any oil that was left in there and it released whatever pressure was in the tank for a few seconds and then stopped.

Is the pump pretty easy to hear? I feel like all I hear when I press the switch is something clunk kind of like a relay, but I'm now doubting I ever got axle lift although the system did have pressure when I removed the switch. What are my options to activate the pump system? I guess I should look and see if I can do this with a Durametric enthusiast or Cobb Accessport next.

Doing it in place wasn't really that difficult. If you have smaller hands it will be even easier. That thin wall socket fits just fine if you remove both wiring covers from the backside of the switches. Dealing with the underbody panels when the quickjack covers some of the fasteners is annoying.

Larry Cable

As I recall the pump runs asynchronously in order to pressurize the system when required/n demand, so you wont necessarily hear the system when the system attempts to lift ...

but at some point the motor should fire up and drive the pump to pressurize ...

I doubt that a Cobb will help ... sounds like you may have another issue other than a flooded pressure switch


Also are you saying that your system is in the raised position? - surely if you depressurized its lowered?

00 Scrub

Thanks for the info Larry. Does anyone know i the engine has to be running for the pump to run?

Larry Cable

I *think* that only the ignition has to be on ... but its been a while!

I think you need to find a friendly local RLer with a PIWISIII and run the tests on your FAL ... (I wish I. had one)

Medicopter

According to cdixon (post #236) the engine needs to run for the pump to run.

Larry Cable

good to know ... sorry for the confusion!

JB911

You may have to clear codes with PIWIS, not sure. I would disconnect the battery, wait a few minutes and re-connect to do a reset. Then drive around the block(TC will show error on dashboard until you do a bit of a drive, a block or so). With the car running, you should hear the pump. It will take a while, since the tank is empty. You can also disconnect the banjo bolts where they feed the bottom of the shocks, and feel the air pumping if the pump is indeed functioning. Also, the driver's door has to be closed for the Lift to deflate, not sure if so when inflating.

JB

00 Scrub

Thanks for the help guys. I cleared all my codes using the Durametric and reset the battery and went for a drive. Unfortunately it's the same thing. I'll see if I can get a PIWIS and diagnose further before I drop the unit.

Medicopter

cdixon's post # 238 may be helpful.

bonehead

Any luck on sorting out the FAL @00 Scrub ?

00 Scrub

Hi Ed, no luck yet. I was out of town for a bit. I'm hoping to get a PIWIS shortly to dig in a little further. I need to figure out how to get the the rear console area with my half cage in to check the relays as well.

cdixon

Sorry just reading the last few entries on this thread so may not be fully up to speed.

It sounds like you’ve accessed the FAL under the car and changed the 13Bar switch?

If you are quite confident you can test the 12v electric motor on the FAL in the car quite easily by applying 12v directly to the pins on the large centre plug on the FAL. This plug just supplies the power to the FALs compressor motor when all the pre-conditions are met. If your motor is good you’ll hear it… It can take over three minutes to charge the air tank, but i wouldn’t run it that long while bypassing all the pressure switches. Did you read my PDF document that I posted into this thread a while ago as that has full electrical and pneumatic schematics with also a breakdown of how it works?

Also what’s the history of the FAL in the car? did it ever work? Sounds like it could have been coded out of the car at some point? With a PWIS it’s an easy code in (three / four menu clicks from memory when I did mine) and also the PWIS FAL diags are not too bad as you can actuate the system components individually with a PWIS.

EDIT:- Just read your post #251…. This sounds similar error to mine… If the system throws up an error code after a few minutes of driving it sounds like a faulty compressor. Have you checked the motor belt on the compressor? You can view it by removing the black inspection cover on the FAL. The belt was snapped on mine, which resulted in the compressor motor running but unable to drive the compressor piston. Hence not generating pressure and thus causing the system to trip an alarm like the one you see after a while.

cdixon

Yes, I researched putting an inline filter in, but I couldn’t find one small enough that could also handle that level of pressure….