Nose lift, CPO, PCNA
#273
I'm a bit confused. I swapped my 13bar pressure switch today and the behavior didn't change (can't press the lift button to lower the nose and never get the lift message on the dash). My 13bar switch was covered in oil, I even ran the system with the switch removed to help try and push out any oil that was left in there and it released whatever pressure was in the tank for a few seconds and then stopped.
Is the pump pretty easy to hear? I feel like all I hear when I press the switch is something clunk kind of like a relay, but I'm now doubting I ever got axle lift although the system did have pressure when I removed the switch. What are my options to activate the pump system? I guess I should look and see if I can do this with a Durametric enthusiast or Cobb Accessport next.
Doing it in place wasn't really that difficult. If you have smaller hands it will be even easier. That thin wall socket fits just fine if you remove both wiring covers from the backside of the switches. Dealing with the underbody panels when the quickjack covers some of the fasteners is annoying.
Is the pump pretty easy to hear? I feel like all I hear when I press the switch is something clunk kind of like a relay, but I'm now doubting I ever got axle lift although the system did have pressure when I removed the switch. What are my options to activate the pump system? I guess I should look and see if I can do this with a Durametric enthusiast or Cobb Accessport next.
Doing it in place wasn't really that difficult. If you have smaller hands it will be even easier. That thin wall socket fits just fine if you remove both wiring covers from the backside of the switches. Dealing with the underbody panels when the quickjack covers some of the fasteners is annoying.
#274
Rennlist Member
As I recall the pump runs asynchronously in order to pressurize the system when required/n demand, so you wont necessarily hear the system when the system attempts to lift ...
but at some point the motor should fire up and drive the pump to pressurize ...
I doubt that a Cobb will help ... sounds like you may have another issue other than a flooded pressure switch
Also are you saying that your system is in the raised position? - surely if you depressurized its lowered?
but at some point the motor should fire up and drive the pump to pressurize ...
I doubt that a Cobb will help ... sounds like you may have another issue other than a flooded pressure switch
Also are you saying that your system is in the raised position? - surely if you depressurized its lowered?
Last edited by Larry Cable; 07-11-2022 at 01:58 AM.
#276
Rennlist Member
I think you need to find a friendly local RLer with a PIWISIII and run the tests on your FAL ... (I wish I. had one)
The following users liked this post:
Larry Cable (07-11-2022)
#278
Rennlist Member
good to know ... sorry for the confusion!
#279
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
You may have to clear codes with PIWIS, not sure. I would disconnect the battery, wait a few minutes and re-connect to do a reset. Then drive around the block(TC will show error on dashboard until you do a bit of a drive, a block or so). With the car running, you should hear the pump. It will take a while, since the tank is empty. You can also disconnect the banjo bolts where they feed the bottom of the shocks, and feel the air pumping if the pump is indeed functioning. Also, the driver's door has to be closed for the Lift to deflate, not sure if so when inflating.
JB
JB
#280
Thanks for the help guys. I cleared all my codes using the Durametric and reset the battery and went for a drive. Unfortunately it's the same thing. I'll see if I can get a PIWIS and diagnose further before I drop the unit.
#281
Rennlist Member
#283
Hi Ed, no luck yet. I was out of town for a bit. I'm hoping to get a PIWIS shortly to dig in a little further. I need to figure out how to get the the rear console area with my half cage in to check the relays as well.
#284
Instructor
Sorry just reading the last few entries on this thread so may not be fully up to speed.
It sounds like you’ve accessed the FAL under the car and changed the 13Bar switch?
If you are quite confident you can test the 12v electric motor on the FAL in the car quite easily by applying 12v directly to the pins on the large centre plug on the FAL. This plug just supplies the power to the FALs compressor motor when all the pre-conditions are met. If your motor is good you’ll hear it… It can take over three minutes to charge the air tank, but i wouldn’t run it that long while bypassing all the pressure switches. Did you read my PDF document that I posted into this thread a while ago as that has full electrical and pneumatic schematics with also a breakdown of how it works?
Also what’s the history of the FAL in the car? did it ever work? Sounds like it could have been coded out of the car at some point? With a PWIS it’s an easy code in (three / four menu clicks from memory when I did mine) and also the PWIS FAL diags are not too bad as you can actuate the system components individually with a PWIS.
EDIT:- Just read your post #251…. This sounds similar error to mine… If the system throws up an error code after a few minutes of driving it sounds like a faulty compressor. Have you checked the motor belt on the compressor? You can view it by removing the black inspection cover on the FAL. The belt was snapped on mine, which resulted in the compressor motor running but unable to drive the compressor piston. Hence not generating pressure and thus causing the system to trip an alarm like the one you see after a while.
It sounds like you’ve accessed the FAL under the car and changed the 13Bar switch?
If you are quite confident you can test the 12v electric motor on the FAL in the car quite easily by applying 12v directly to the pins on the large centre plug on the FAL. This plug just supplies the power to the FALs compressor motor when all the pre-conditions are met. If your motor is good you’ll hear it… It can take over three minutes to charge the air tank, but i wouldn’t run it that long while bypassing all the pressure switches. Did you read my PDF document that I posted into this thread a while ago as that has full electrical and pneumatic schematics with also a breakdown of how it works?
Also what’s the history of the FAL in the car? did it ever work? Sounds like it could have been coded out of the car at some point? With a PWIS it’s an easy code in (three / four menu clicks from memory when I did mine) and also the PWIS FAL diags are not too bad as you can actuate the system components individually with a PWIS.
EDIT:- Just read your post #251…. This sounds similar error to mine… If the system throws up an error code after a few minutes of driving it sounds like a faulty compressor. Have you checked the motor belt on the compressor? You can view it by removing the black inspection cover on the FAL. The belt was snapped on mine, which resulted in the compressor motor running but unable to drive the compressor piston. Hence not generating pressure and thus causing the system to trip an alarm like the one you see after a while.
Last edited by cdixon; 08-01-2022 at 05:24 AM.
#285
Instructor
Well I got my FAL activated today. . I don't get a "Lift" message on the dash nor does it go back down when the button is pressed. I did get a "Lift Malfunction" warning on the dash after a few minutes of driving. Thanks to cdixon and the others on this thread I am pretty sure the previous owner turned it off due to a faulty pressure switch. The documentation that cdixon put together is really well done.
I emailed Suco USA to get a quote on some of the preset switches. I was wondering if anyone had cut open a failed switch to see what was the actual failure mode. Was the mechanism getting gummed up or was the diaphragm/seal damaged from the hydraulic oil?
Also I was wondering if anyone had thought about putting an inline filter to catch any hydraulic oil to prevent damage to the switch.
Something like this: https://www.comoso.com/product/hydra...-inline-filter
I emailed Suco USA to get a quote on some of the preset switches. I was wondering if anyone had cut open a failed switch to see what was the actual failure mode. Was the mechanism getting gummed up or was the diaphragm/seal damaged from the hydraulic oil?
Also I was wondering if anyone had thought about putting an inline filter to catch any hydraulic oil to prevent damage to the switch.
Something like this: https://www.comoso.com/product/hydra...-inline-filter
Yes, I researched putting an inline filter in, but I couldnt find one small enough that could also handle that level of pressure .