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Today, I installed the updated DSC box along with the 3-axis accelerometer. Overall, the install took a little over an hour. Since I have a GMG bar in the back, I was concerned that it may be tough to get to the ECU panel behind the seats. However, with the passenger side seat out, I was able to pull up the carpet and remove the panel. One 10mm was partially blocked by the rollbar mount but I was still able to remove it with a little effort.
Greetings! I also have the GMG RSR bar, and I cannot loosen the front nut of the ECU panel since the rollbar mount is flush against the nut! How were you able to loosen it? The only way I will be able to accomplish this is to loosen all of the rollbar anchor points and raise the entire rollbar about a quarter inch, and hopefully have enough clearance.
I'm afraid that if I loosen all of the rollbar mounting points (including the floor bolts), I may not be able to realign the bar and get it back into position.
Any assistance is appreciated!
Tom: Thank you for getting the kit out to me ASAP. Will have to wait until above is resolved to experience your DSC system.
Greetings! I also have the GMG RSR bar, and I cannot loosen the front nut of the ECU panel since the rollbar mount is flush against the nut! How were you able to loosen it? The only way I will be able to accomplish this is to loosen all of the rollbar anchor points and raise the entire rollbar about a quarter inch, and hopefully have enough clearance.
I'm afraid that if I loosen all of the rollbar mounting points (including the floor bolts), I may not be able to realign the bar and get it back into position.
Any assistance is appreciated!
Tom: Thank you for getting the kit out to me ASAP. Will have to wait until above is resolved to experience your DSC system.
If removing the aluminum ECU mounting plate is not an option, I know of a few people who have accessed and connected to the CAN wires and power wire through the slot. I have not tried this personally but people who have done this said it works well for them. Although I always solder the connections at the shop, Scotchlok connectors might be advantageous when the mounting plate is not removed.
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PCA National Instructor
TPC Racing stats:
2023 Porsche Sprint Challenge 992 Cup Am Champion
2023 Porsche Sprint Challenge GT4 Pro-Am Team Champion
2022 Porsche Sprint Challenge 992 Cup & 991 Cup Champion
2020 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge 2nd Championship
2018 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge 2nd Championship
2016 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge Champion
2013 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge Champion
2006 Rolex-24 @ Daytona GT Champion
2004 Grand-Am SGS Class Champion
If removing the aluminum ECU mounting plate is not an option, I know of a few people who have accessed and connected to the CAN wires and power wire through the slot.
Tom: I was able to unscrew the 4 bolts holding the ECU to the plate. I bent the plate toward the window a bit and got access to the rear left bolt. Slid the ECU out toward the front, and now have full access to the wires. Will finish tomorrow. Thanks for the quick response.
Tom: I was able to unscrew the 4 bolts holding the ECU to the plate. I bent the plate toward the window a bit and got access to the rear left bolt. Slid the ECU out toward the front, and now have full access to the wires. Will finish tomorrow. Thanks for the quick response.
If removing the aluminum ECU mounting plate is not an option, I know of a few people who have accessed and connected to the CAN wires and power wire through the slot. I have not tried this personally but people who have done this said it works well for them. Although I always solder the connections at the shop, Scotchlok connectors might be advantageous when the mounting plate is not removed.
I don't know anything about your product, but if you only need access to the CAN you can access it through the ECU, the driver left footwell, or behind the radio. I tested these when I installed my AIM dash.
I don't know anything about your product, but if you only need access to the CAN you can access it through the ECU, the driver left footwell, or behind the radio. I tested these when I installed my AIM dash.
Yes indeed CAN wires run throughout the entire car. We are installing a 3-axis accelerometer to measure g-force, this device is calibrated as such that we want to install this device as close to the center of the car as possible while keeping the wiring as short as possible. The CAN wires near the ECU is the most ideal choice for this purpose.
Yes indeed CAN wires run throughout the entire car. We are installing a 3-axis accelerometer to measure g-force, this device is calibrated as such that we want to install this device as close to the center of the car as possible while keeping the wiring as short as possible. The CAN wires near the ECU is the most ideal choice for this purpose.
Mines a .1 doesn't have the issue so much with cam bolts backing out, the stroked .1 engines have an issue eating oil pump gears. I had the damper on from day one, still no issues with harmonics...
Here's a few pics of my first outing with fresh 18" NT01's. Not ideal condition for a set of fresh R comps but they needed to be scrubbed-in(or in this case slid-in) one way or another. I played with different DSC modes, definitely noticed most grip in Mode 1 over standing water.
Curious to hear feedback in how much difference there is with a 20 pound lighter FW
My impression of the LWFW after 4 months is that it makes the car "feel" racier and makes rev matching a little easier but didn't make the car go any faster than the heavier FW. Same impression as on the tens I installed for customers. Nonetheless, I like it. Makes me feel like I have an RS.
05-31-2015, 01:25 PM
The only way I will be able to accomplish this is to loosen all of the rollbar anchor points and raise the entire rollbar about a quarter inch, and hopefully have enough clearance.
I played with different DSC modes, definitely noticed most grip in Mode 1 over standing water.
