Tom@TPC Racing

I am sorry, I'm not in the position to provide details at this time. The company have hired people and a PR firm to handle press releases. I'm just a lowly shop worker. What I can say is that while DSC + PASM/Damptronic have been a stellar performer, the DSC + Tractive DDA shocks with be off the charts! We will be testing DSC + Tractive DDA shocks on a 997.2 Cup car next week and Sebring. This will be the first time DSC will be run in a full on race car. We'll be there with full effort; 3 pro drivers, hardware engineer, software engineer, and 2 race engineers. What ever it does out of the box, we'll be sure to push the envelope a little(or a lot)further!

PS- to all the RL members following this thread, I'll be doing more work to my car soon and will be sure to share with you all. It has been an extremely busy past few month and haven't driven my GT3 since November.

tcsracing1

but i wanna know now!

Tom@TPC Racing

Then stop by our camp next week at Sebring for DMTD and PCA event. We welcome visits.

bmwtye

Here is what Harris posted on another forum in response to my question. Hope I'm not stepping on your toes here Tom, just want to share the info. If for any reason you want me to remove this just let me know.

Originally Posted by TYE
What improvements does the dsc + dda combo give over the OEM gt3 shocks/springs + DSC?
The Tractive DDA setup controlled by DSC allows for a true active suspension with incredible reaction times. The quality of the Tractive shocks is that of a shock that is used in a professional race series but for a fraction of the price!

The OEM shocks react at 100 milliseconds and the Tractive shocks react at 6 milliseconds. With this kind of reaction time, the Tractive shock with the DDA valve will be reacting right when you hit the bump rather than after. If you are on track and you touch curbing, we are able to change the rate at which the shock can dump out pressure to allow for more surface area of the tire to stay on the ground to maximize the grip level through the corner. You cannot do that with the OEM shocks because they do not react fast enough.

Also with the combination of the Tractive DDA valved shocks and the DSC module, you are able to run a lower spring rate because of how the shock is active and reactive. If you were to run a 400/600 pound setup, it will ride nice and be comfortable, but once you start to lean on the car and do some heavy braking or high speed cornering, it will be like having 600/800 pound springs with the way the car feels that it is handling. With this, you do not have to compromise the ride quality of your car.

Tom@TPC Racing

No need to its fine. I wasn't sure what I can share about new products in a thread about shaping up my car. I'm sure the marketing guys will post a lot more info in coming weeks along with track data from Sebring.

Larry Cable

sweet! sounds like a perfect combo

Tom@TPC Racing

Hey guys,

It has been a while since I've done anything to my car due to a super busy Winter. As you may know, the TPC teams is at Sebring this entire week for DMTD for open test days immediately followed by the PCA 48@Sebring. I run the shop and take care of customers so I don't go to all the events. So, this mean I have the available space, a lift, and 5 nights to myself to prep my car for 2015. Here's what I set out to do in 5 nights. I only work on my car after business hours.

1. Weld coolant pipes- I know many prefer pinning over welding. I don't want to start another thread about pros/cons between the two, just want to secure coolant the pipes for the safety for others and myself on track.

2. Replace lifter tappets- Been getting tapping noise when the oil warms up. This'll be an interesting project because I usually don't do internal engine work at the shop. We have mechanics who specialize in that whereas I'm a jack of all trades but master of none. LOL. I rebuilt non-Porsche engines before but they don't me do engines here. On a Porsche H6 engine replacing lifter tappets requires setting cam timing.

3. Install RS LWFW- There's some bad rep on this mod but based on the number of cars I come in contact with that have no issues I'm going to give this a go. To do 1,2 and 3 requires dropping the engine so my thinking is I need to do something high performance!

And sure between these 3 things I'll find a number of things to address along the process.

Here we go!

Tom@TPC Racing

I have yet to figure out how to ad caption to each photo so bare with me with cluster of them. Made huge progress. Engine dropped. Did a leakdown test, I had no issue but might as well do it since its more convenient with engine out. Check each cylinder twice and consistently got 6-7% on all cylinders. For those who haven't done it, stripping the engine accessories take a bit of time. Found a little bit of play on the idler pulley so out they go. Have the first part to have the stock coolant pipes removed in a vice ready for tomorrow. And lastly a late night treat to myself.

Made great progress tonight hope the momentum continues. Oh, and I thought the one photo of inside the cyl head intake port is neat.

AEsco48

Tom, any thoughts on cleaning out the intake runners between the intake manifold and the injector spray? Sea Foam?

Tom@TPC Racing

There's all kinds of chemical that's effective but definitely remove the runner from the engine before cleaning. We use Berkebile brand gum cutter at the shop, it works well.

Sorry, gotta go back to work.

Alan C.

Tom, nice to see you taking on the engine. A new chapter!

Tom@TPC Racing

Thanks, Alan. A new chapter for you as well driving the 991 GT3!

Larry Cable

Hey Tom I thought there was a Porsche Technical Bulletin on this, but it was only with 3.8 parts and not the 4.0 components?

gonna change your diff or final ratio?

Tom@TPC Racing

You mean the bulletin on LWFW not approved by Porsche? I think they mean any clutch with LWFW. My car is not under warranty anyway.

Ring & pinion and diff is on my list. Wish I had the $ to do it all at once.

Tom@TPC Racing

I was set to work pass midnight again but tonight turned out to be a complete bust because my local dealer didn't delivery the parts I needed. No lifter tappets, no O-rings, no hoses. Guess I have pick up my pace the next couple day...assuming the parts come in.

On the bright side, my friend/co-worker Nick welded the fittings for me. He welds all aluminum intercoolers and radiators all day so I have completely faith in his work. I was going to make my own weld fitting on lathe using T6 aluminum tube but got a set from ebay at a good price and saved me time. Good thing the package came with an extra because Nick had to double up the fitting to match the length of the one long fitting which was no big deal for him. After welding all the mating surfaces were check against a machinist parallel for straightness.

One last thing for tonight- when I was handling the aluminum pieces that house the coolant fittings, I questioned myself why am I doing this and talking the chance of possibly ruining the aluminum pieces that I can't afford to replace?? These fitting are very sturdy, they're never coming off unless I force them with a torch. Two minutes later when I put the last pieces in the vice that's the with the long fitting that goes under the power steering pump, the pipe came out as soon as I put a vise grip on it! I didn't even turn the torch on for that one. Dang.