Replacing the clutch in a 997.1 -- Here's how I did it.
01-18-2018, 12:35 PM
#91
Three Wheelin'
@jeebus - I'd highly recommend it. As long as you can get a lift its a good DIY project. At 6'2" 220lbs it would be cruel and unusual punishment to do on jack stands. I applaud the guys who powered through it. With the transmission out I was also able to get photos of how the alternator/starter cable snakes up the back of the engine so that project should be pretty easy whenever I get around to it. I could have done it yesterday but didn't want to overstay my welcome.
@Pete - yes shops like this are half the fun of owning these cars. They are true enthusiasts who want to share their knowledge. Their shop is the ultimate man'cave http://scargoracing.com/gallery/
As for side markers...I know its the badge of a neophyte but I wear mine with pride :-) I kinda like the yellow accent on silver but I may succumb to the peer pressure one of these days.
@David - yes im in for next Friday. What route are you thinking? I took the long way home yesterday to break in the clutch a bit.
@Pete - yes shops like this are half the fun of owning these cars. They are true enthusiasts who want to share their knowledge. Their shop is the ultimate man'cave http://scargoracing.com/gallery/
As for side markers...I know its the badge of a neophyte but I wear mine with pride :-) I kinda like the yellow accent on silver but I may succumb to the peer pressure one of these days.
@David - yes im in for next Friday. What route are you thinking? I took the long way home yesterday to break in the clutch a bit.
01-18-2018, 01:11 PM
#92
Three Wheelin'
Side note: my theory is I had the clutch partially depressed when I hit a pothole and the throwout bearing knocked against a finger and cracked it. There was an immediate vibration after hitting the pothole so seems to add up. The clutch slippage I felt the next day was likely the clutch not fully disengaging because of the cracked fingers.
If my theory holds up would it potentially indicate the engine mounts are getting soft and allowing too much play?
If my theory holds up would it potentially indicate the engine mounts are getting soft and allowing too much play?
01-18-2018, 04:18 PM
#93
Three Wheelin'
How's the clutch pedal feel now that you've changed out the kit?
01-18-2018, 05:08 PM
#94
Three Wheelin'
Like butter :-) Actually pretty similar. It’s slightly softer than before, which i assume is combo of pressure plate and new throw bearing. Release point about the same.
I had posted on another thread but here are my personal observations on diagnosing a clutch issue, after seeing how all the internals work:
- higher release point and slippage in high gears is worn ckutch disk
- a stiff pedal is the result of the fingers on the pressure plate getting tempered from dumping the clutch one too many times
- A mushy pedal is from broken fingers on the pressure plate, or possibly a bad helper spring under the dash (but you might be able to hear than in cabin)
- if you hear creaking under the car when depressing the pedal (with the car off) it’s likely a broken pressure plate finger. Possibly a bad throw bearing.
- heavy vibration and misfire codes is a bad dual mass flywheel
- small vibration in the pedal with no other symptoms could be a broken sleeve on the slave cylinder. If the release arm gets scored up from metal on metal it could have additional symptoms but I’m not 100% sure how that feedsback via a hyradulic line is its not a direct linkage.
Keep us posted.
I had posted on another thread but here are my personal observations on diagnosing a clutch issue, after seeing how all the internals work:
- higher release point and slippage in high gears is worn ckutch disk
- a stiff pedal is the result of the fingers on the pressure plate getting tempered from dumping the clutch one too many times
- A mushy pedal is from broken fingers on the pressure plate, or possibly a bad helper spring under the dash (but you might be able to hear than in cabin)
- if you hear creaking under the car when depressing the pedal (with the car off) it’s likely a broken pressure plate finger. Possibly a bad throw bearing.
- heavy vibration and misfire codes is a bad dual mass flywheel
- small vibration in the pedal with no other symptoms could be a broken sleeve on the slave cylinder. If the release arm gets scored up from metal on metal it could have additional symptoms but I’m not 100% sure how that feedsback via a hyradulic line is its not a direct linkage.
Keep us posted.
02-03-2018, 12:03 AM
#95
Three Wheelin'
Anybody adjust their clutch cables after replacing the clutch? 2nd gear is a little notchy after replacing mine.
I read a couple posts that said pulling the tranny can stretch the cables and you should readjust.
I read a couple posts that said pulling the tranny can stretch the cables and you should readjust.
02-03-2018, 01:12 AM
#96
10-19-2018, 11:41 PM
#97
Intermediate
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Cam,
Yes I did replace the flywheel. I wrote a tutorial to help other forum members:
http://murenae.com/FTP_Files/997_Clutch_Work.pdf
Good luck.
Yves
Yes I did replace the flywheel. I wrote a tutorial to help other forum members:
http://murenae.com/FTP_Files/997_Clutch_Work.pdf
Good luck.
Yves
Thank you for the C4S pdf. You saved my day!
10-20-2018, 03:39 PM
#100
Three Wheelin'
10-21-2018, 02:09 AM
#101
Rennlist Member
I think its important to mention that very often when original clutch has been driven over 60K-80K miles and when changing out the clutch, it is wise to change the flywheel or at least have it inspected.
Not taking this precaution can lead to clutch chatter due to debris buildup on the old flywheel - Some shops send old flywheel to machine shop to have flywheel "turned" but it has always been recommended to me to change it out new since it's only a $733 item shipped - Also OEM Sachs clutch kit $495 and RMS $31 (ttl $533) thru Renn Part in South Florida including shipping. I buy all my OEM parts from Renn Part which is a Racing outfit. Fellow Aaron is owner, nice guy to deal with and fast with shipping/etc and extremely knowledgeable.
I just purchased Sachs clutch/RMS/waterpump/160 degree thermostat/front rotors and pads/sensors and having all this work done end of October here in Seattle at Aker's Porsche - Been using their shop for 33 years.
RMS has slight weepage(no drip) and other work being done as preventative maintenance. My service records only go back 6 years so not sure whether clutch was changed out or condition of flywheel - If flywheel has debris I'll be having that done as well.
I admire the work the OP has done - Too big a job for me - I just don't have the tools/experience - Really saves costs when you can turn wrench yourself.
Not taking this precaution can lead to clutch chatter due to debris buildup on the old flywheel - Some shops send old flywheel to machine shop to have flywheel "turned" but it has always been recommended to me to change it out new since it's only a $733 item shipped - Also OEM Sachs clutch kit $495 and RMS $31 (ttl $533) thru Renn Part in South Florida including shipping. I buy all my OEM parts from Renn Part which is a Racing outfit. Fellow Aaron is owner, nice guy to deal with and fast with shipping/etc and extremely knowledgeable.
I just purchased Sachs clutch/RMS/waterpump/160 degree thermostat/front rotors and pads/sensors and having all this work done end of October here in Seattle at Aker's Porsche - Been using their shop for 33 years.
RMS has slight weepage(no drip) and other work being done as preventative maintenance. My service records only go back 6 years so not sure whether clutch was changed out or condition of flywheel - If flywheel has debris I'll be having that done as well.
I admire the work the OP has done - Too big a job for me - I just don't have the tools/experience - Really saves costs when you can turn wrench yourself.
10-22-2018, 01:21 PM
#102
Three Wheelin'
If the flywheel is flat, not scored, I would just clean it up with a finish sander and 80 grit sand paper, then re use it.
10-22-2018, 01:36 PM
#103
Three Wheelin'
Re flywheel, the workshop manual states the flywheel should be replaced if it has more than a certain amount of play (I forget the exact distance) when you turn it clockwise. And it should spring back. I think the recent post of the sheered flywheel bolts tells us why this is important :-)
Mine was within spec spec so we just cleaned and polished it.
You can also see any leaks on the RMS (or IMS) with the flywheel still on so no need to replace unless you see some signs in the bottom of the housing. The RMS is only $20-30 if you need to replace it but I think that was solved in late 2006 cars.
Mine was within spec spec so we just cleaned and polished it.
You can also see any leaks on the RMS (or IMS) with the flywheel still on so no need to replace unless you see some signs in the bottom of the housing. The RMS is only $20-30 if you need to replace it but I think that was solved in late 2006 cars.
10-22-2018, 11:09 PM
#104
Rennlist Member
Re flywheel, the workshop manual states the flywheel should be replaced if it has more than a certain amount of play (I forget the exact distance) when you turn it clockwise. And it should spring back. I think the recent post of the sheered flywheel bolts tells us why this is important :-)
Mine was within spec spec so we just cleaned and polished it.
You can also see any leaks on the RMS (or IMS) with the flywheel still on so no need to replace unless you see some signs in the bottom of the housing. The RMS is only $20-30 if you need to replace it but I think that was solved in late 2006 cars.
Mine was within spec spec so we just cleaned and polished it.
You can also see any leaks on the RMS (or IMS) with the flywheel still on so no need to replace unless you see some signs in the bottom of the housing. The RMS is only $20-30 if you need to replace it but I think that was solved in late 2006 cars.
...And I would have to think if my mechanic could simply use a grinder to clean flywheel he would - I assume using grinder could perhaps throw flywheel out of balance and sounds like hack job to me. I've heard of cleaning off slight glaze with brake cleaner or the like. My thinking would be after 70K - 80K miles on flywheel and if its looking rough, why not just start fresh and new?
Last edited by groovzilla; 10-23-2018 at 12:05 AM.
10-22-2018, 11:49 PM
#105
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
- If a 997.1 car equipped with the later, larger IMS bearing, when you've removed the transmission, the seal on the IMS bearing should be removed so the bearing can receive fresh lubrication, since the bearing itself can't be easily changed (BTW, I'm not a fan of the milling procedure that is talked about as an alternative to swap out the bearing on a large bearing car).
- At some point the RMS seal itself was updated to a newer design and instead of having only a single sealing rib on the outer circumference, it actually has multiple so it seals better and lasts longer. However, the RMS has to be installed properly, which means completely straight and to the proper depth. There is a special Porsche tool to accomplish this but I believe there's a write-up on here somewhere about how to fashion a usable RMS installation tool with depth gauge out of PVC. With 2 997s, I personally would probably just add the proper tool to my arsenal, but understand others that may not want to spend the money for what could be a 1 and done use. If you're not going to ensure the RMS is installed properly, and the current one isn't leaking, you might actually be better off not removing it, but that then precludes you from being able to pull the grease seal on the IMS bearing, which should be done.
- If you don't replace the RMS and then it develops a leak, you're paying to do all the same labor again, possibly including the clutch replacement parts if it gets oil in the clutch assembly.
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