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This thread has just about convinced me that I can do the clutch replacement. Thanks to all who have contributed.
One loose end is the plastic clutch alignment tool, which is uniformly hated. I have access to ones made from actual drive shafts for a 901, 915 and a 930. Does anyone know if one of them would work for our 997.1's?
Well, we did it. The info on this thread was priceless. Many thanks to all who contributed. And I couldn't have done it by myself. My friend and my son did most of the work. I found and handled tools mostly. Some comments: The plastic clutch alignment tool that came in the kit worked fine. I had bought a used Snap-On generic one but didn't need it. The RMS was a ___itch. Happy that I had read about drilling a hole, threading in a bolt and pulling it out. That's what we finally did. I'd read up more on that. A two post jack and a $700 transmission jack, both borrowed (I have great friends), made the job a lot easier. Just like said on here, getting the transmission lined up with the engine going back in takes awhile. Doing it at eye level was beyond helpful. It took us about 6 hours total but we were deliberate.
Just drove the car. Clutch works perfectly.
The clutch had been slipping. The car has only 35k miles and I am easy on it. The clutch itself was fine. Like others have observed, I think it was the pressure plate. About 4 of the fingers looked bent in.
**Later 997.1 owners with non-removable IMS Bearing(without case being split)
I didn't read thru the entire thread again but important info for later 997.1 owners regarding IMS seal - Even though failure rate is extremely low, if you are installing clutch It is recommended to remove the IMS seal to allow more oil flow into the bearing.
I just had my indy replace my clutch/RMS and water pump and he removed the IMS seal. I'm not sure of the procedure but he is a 40 year Porsche Guru and it was highly suggested as mentioned in many other threads.
Well, we did it. The info on this thread was priceless. Many thanks to all who contributed. And I couldn't have done it by myself. My friend and my son did most of the work. I found and handled tools mostly. Some comments: The plastic clutch alignment tool that came in the kit worked fine. I had bought a used Snap-On generic one but didn't need it. The RMS was a ___itch. Happy that I had read about drilling a hole, threading in a bolt and pulling it out. That's what we finally did. I'd read up more on that. A two post jack and a $700 transmission jack, both borrowed (I have great friends), made the job a lot easier. Just like said on here, getting the transmission lined up with the engine going back in takes awhile. Doing it at eye level was beyond helpful. It took us about 6 hours total but we were deliberate.
Just drove the car. Clutch works perfectly.
The clutch had been slipping. The car has only 35k miles and I am easy on it. The clutch itself was fine. Like others have observed, I think it was the pressure plate. About 4 of the fingers looked bent in.
Okay I need some help from you guys. I just changed out my clutch in my 997.2 following this thread, which was very helpful, but I have run into an issue with the clutch pedal and slave cylinder on the transmission.
My clutch pedal is on the floor and will not return to the upright position. The new slave cylinder I installed, and when I did I filled it with fluid, but I have always been told it is self bleeding. Do I need to bleed the back brakes to get all the air out that was introduced? Any ideas? Thanks. Not sure how to get the pedal back up to normal height.
It is self bleeding in normal operation but for replacement procedure, Porsche recommends a tool that attaches to the return line and has a bleeder to it. You have to get that if you want to do it right.
Okay I need some help from you guys. I just changed out my clutch in my 997.2 following this thread, which was very helpful, but I have run into an issue with the clutch pedal and slave cylinder on the transmission.
My clutch pedal is on the floor and will not return to the upright position. The new slave cylinder I installed, and when I did I filled it with fluid, but I have always been told it is self bleeding. Do I need to bleed the back brakes to get all the air out that was introduced? Any ideas? Thanks. Not sure how to get the pedal back up to normal height.
So my car is a 997.2 and this thread and most everything in it still applies. The only difference really is that the bell housing has 6 bolts (all are the same length and thread) and the clutch slave cylinder is a newer type that is self bleeding after it is filled. I did mine on jack stands just like it states in here and the one thing that helped the most was the use of some guide bolts I made. I purchased these bolts and with a grinder I cut off the head. Then made a slot in the part so I could screw them out with a screwdriver. This saved tons of time lining up the engine and the transmission. Remember once the tranny is on these bolts to do an eye measurement of the top and bottom gap between the tranny and the engine so they are on the same plane/angle and it will make your life much easier. It went in perfectly on the second try using these homemade line-up bolts.
The clutch still had some meat on it, but it had lots of hot spots which probably accounted for the slipping that I felt. I am not sure how the previous owner drove it so I will blame him for it.
Oh yea and get the metal alignment tool,
Thanks to many of you who helped with this thread. I replaced the clutch and the flywheel with stock parts and of course the throwout bearing and slave cylinder along with a bunch of other parts that I probably did not need to replace, but while I was there I wanted to do it all. You guys rock. Next will be my fuel injectors and my water pump.
Still deciding if I am going to do this myself or not, but my clutch just started to slip and the pedal feels terrible, the writeups and info in this thread is pushing my to change it myself.
If you are doing it to just save money I would have someone else do it. If you are doing it because you are looking forward to fixing it then do it yourself. I have done mine and it was enjoyable working on the car.
those are dowels to help get the fly wheel on the back of the crack as it has its own alignmet dowel and can be a huge PITA to get lined up if you aren't the strongest.
You can make them from old flywheel bolts buy cutting the head off.
10-24-2018, 06:09 PM
