Skube

Need some advice, I have a 2009, 997.2 C2, I pulled my flywheel and RMS, and did some depth measurements before I set the new RMS, and the total depth is one ~21.5mm, and the RMS is 13mm and everything I have read has said to set it at 12+mm deep which means crushing the RMS, none of that makes sense. My RMS was at 8mm deep.

I compared the RMS I took off to the new one, the new one is the updated part number but they are the same depth. I am likely going to just set it to 8-9mm deep like it was when I pulled it, it wants leaking, and i not want to crush it.

Anyone has experience with this? Am I mixing measurements from a 997.1 with a 997.2 and is that why they dont match?

Petza914

I don't have the depth measurent info handy, but the difference between the old RMS and superceded one is that the new one has multiple sealing ribs on it where the original had 1.

Durling21

Well I am going to be attempting to do this on my new to me 997.2 c2. I have had the car three weeks with a 1k road trip home in it and the other day I thought I had missed third gear at 4500ish rpm but I believe I have a bent pressure plate. Clutch is super spongy right at the engagement point. Can’t only get the clutch to engage if I slip the hell out of it. Since I have 93k miles I’m doing the flywheel as well. Wish me luck!

qikqbn

Some times one or several of the "fingers" on the pressure plate will break, which then will decrease clamping force and cause all sorts of engagement problems. While your in there there are lots of other recommendations for a 93k mile 911. Clutch kit, flywheel, RMS, all new bolts for flywheel and pressure plate, pivot ball, pilot bearing, throw-out bearing, slave cylinder, and a few other bits and bobs that have been suggested by others. It's a bummer, but if you got 93k out of original clutch... that's impressive. Mine only lasted 60k.

ShaunPerry

My clutch pedal went "soft" on me around end of March. It didn't drop to the floor, I monitored several days, but no leaks being left behind under the car anywhere, but I was able to engage every gear and drive it perfectly fine. Because I stopped driving it every day and minimized the usage until my appointment, when I did have to drive it, I was babying everything out of caution. The day of taking it to the indy, https://www.porschedes.com/ , I had to accelerate hard on the freeway to switch lanes and avoid something and low and behold the clutch slipped, very noticeably too.

I wish I could've done the job myself, but I didn't feel confident to try, plus I wanted an expert opinion on servicing/replacing any adjacent items that one would do when dropping the transmission. Everything Qik listed above is what the shop performed, including fresh fluids. stock dual-mass flywheel they said was perfectly healthy and saved me $1100. But boy did that clutch job smack my wallet for just under $3000 parts and labor. Car has 115k miles. I have no documentation of a clutch job being done in the past, so maybe the original lasted that long?

Either way the car is great now and I'm happy to have it behind me for hopefully many more miles. The one thing he told me to add to a future to-do list was the expansion tank, they spotted some minor thin-line cracks.

Durling21

I thought the RMS on a 997.2 isn’t a issue? No service records for a clutch in 93k miles so I’m gonna do pretty much everything. Mine I could barely limp it home. Clutch is slipping bad but I think it’s cuz it’s not fully engaged. I’ll post a picture of my pressure plate when I’m done.

campbesl

Good morning gents!

I'm reviving an old thread because it is time for a clutch on my 2008 C4S with 63K miles and I have some questions about doing this myself. I'm a pretty good mechanic with a boat load of tools but I've never dropped a transaxle (or engine for that matter) and I'm rather intimidated. I've poured over Rotmilky's write up and all the other comments/suggestions that have been added and so I have a solid understanding of the process. The only tools that I seem to lack are a low-profile transmission jack (I would have to do this on jack stands), a screw jack to stabilize and lower/raise the engine, and a good quality clutch alignment tool.

I've searched my local Craigslist and can't find a used tranny jack for sale so I'm left buying a new one. Harbor Freight has some reasonably priced options but are they of good enough quality that they can be trusted to not drop my transaxle or fall on me? Can anybody recommend a good transmission jack?

Can anybody recommend a good clutch alignment tool as that seems to be key?

I have a C4S. What additional steps are involved to disconnect/reconnect the front drive shaft from the transaxle?

Yvesvidal - I see that you posted a link to a tutorial that you wrote. Unfortunately, I can't get the link to work. Would you be interested in emailing me your write-up to ScottLCampbell1@gmail.com ? THANKS

TheBruce - In your write-up, you mention that you compiled a 15 page checklist. Is that essentially your write-up or do you have a separate document that you might be willing to share?

Thanks everybody!

Scott

cjarrett

Great write-up thank you. I was able to use this to replace my bad throwout bearing (and clutch/machined flywheel while I was at it). Did it in 2 days with the car only being on jack stands, not so much room only being about 18 inches off the ground. Had to pull the trans out past the wheel well as it was too tall!

Became an expert in bleeding the clutch too, had to bleed it a few times to get it working really well, lots of pedal pumps and my motive bleeder was key.

groovzilla

Assume you replaced the $30 Rear Main Seal as well.
Surprised to hear you machined your Flywheel - I was under impression from speaking with some Porsche shops that with the newly higher cost involved in machining/cleaning that a new Flywheel a better choice?

cjarrett

I had just done RMS along with chain tensioners, IMS retrofit, and some other goodies last winter. When I reassmbled everything, I used the wrong grease on the throwout bearing, and it killed itself

I took the flywheel to the shop (Magnem Engine Service in Vancouver), they have a rig where they can lock the main flywheel surface to their machine so it can be machined properly (versus a single mass flywheel), it was $255 vs $100 for the work. This shop does both types regularly, and we measured the runout of the dual mass to still be fine so it made sense to do. Clutch engages properly, no juddering or anything, honestly drives better than when I bought it 5 years ago.