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I didn't, vertical height doesn't seem to be the issue, it's just everything is stuffed inside, small hands would definitely be a plus. I did crawl under to see if I could reach that bottom starter bolt but that was a no, still trying to figure out how to get it back in without it falling off into the pit of darkness!
That bolt took my a couple of tries for sure. I dropped it once but it wasn’t able to go far, I just took the starter back out and grabbed it. I finally got it by putting the bottom bolt through the starter first and then got the starter mostly lined up. I grabbed my stack of extensions/swivel and gently got them onto the bolt head, then used my other hand to rotate/push the starter further into place and held it while rotating my extensions, the bolt threaded right in. I cheered and moved on!
Ha! That’s too funny! I couldn’t get the alternator around the bolt channel on the idler pulley side. Turns out the bushing on the back mount of the alternator moves, so I soaked it in PB blaster, reinserted the bolt and smacked the bolt with a hammer to push the bushing back, then the alternator slid into place.
Yours is easy. My alternator mount also has one of the 3 supercharger mounting brackets on it (you can see it on the alternator in this photo). I've figured out how to position the bracket on the alternator just so where I can put the whole thing in as a unit.
This is all the stuff that has to come out for me to get to the starter including removal of the rear.bimper to reach lower supercharger cage bracket bolts.
Plugs, coils, air filters and muffler mod.
I’m bummed on the muffler mod. I already had a sharkwerks X pipe but that was still pretty quiet. I was hoping the hack would give me more rasp and that tinny GT sound. I don’t think it did, more of a Honda sound which doesn’t make me happy. I guess I need to shop for a real exhaust setup, or maybe a center exit with a titanium gt3 muffler?
997.2, I fitted PSE cans (hmmm) then Topgear rear muffler delete (meh) Next parts to go on were some beautiful Fabspeed 200 cell headers (egads!).
That full 3x combo sounded super tinny ricey & obnoxious with PSE open at "race pace".
I ditched the Topgear centre pipe, now I'm in a happy place exhaust sound wise with the PSE cans and Fabspeed 200 cell headers & stocko centre muff....
997.2, I fitted PSE cans (hmmm) then Topgear rear muffler delete (meh) Next parts to go on were some beautiful Fabspeed 200 cell headers (egads!).
That full 3x combo sounded super tinny ricey & obnoxious with PSE open at "race pace".
I ditched the Topgear centre pipe, now I'm in a happy place exhaust sound wise with the PSE cans and Fabspeed 200 cell headers & stocko centre muff....
The X-Pipe on my car was tinny until it got coated with soot.
DFI doing what a DFI does.
Put Hawk Ceramic Pads front and rear. Included new pad wear sensors which was good as I had difficulty removing the old ones and a couple broke. Also installed new pad clips and pins but ones for rear were not correct (too wide) even though they were marked for the rear. So, just cleaned up and reused the rear ones. Also adjusted the e-brake. Foolishly, put all the wheels back on and tools put away before turning on ignition to see a Brake Pad Wear Warning message. Posted asking for suggestions. Turned out I had not connected one of the sensors completely. Per suggestions, did spay connector pins with connector cleaner. Got everything connected correctly and all good. Ashamed to admit that with nearly 50 years of owning cars this is the first time I’ve changed my own brake pads. Part of the deal I made with myself in splurging on a 911 was to take on as much maintenance as I could. Thanks to all of the DIY and support from Rennlisters, things have gone well.
07-30-2022, 11:49 AM
