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I was supposed to take a Performance Driving class at Sonoma Raceway today but the class was cancelled due to the poor air quality. So I took a drive to test the new DSC controller on my 997.1. The DSC is definitely an upgrade on the standard PASM, but it seems a bit unnatural how flat the car takes corners. I can’t wait to get it on the track but I might switch to the standard controller for street use.
I was supposed to take a Performance Driving class at Sonoma Raceway today but the class was cancelled due to the poor air quality. So I took a drive to test the new DSC controller on my 997.1. The DSC is definitely an upgrade on the standard PASM, but it seems a bit unnatural how flat the car takes corners. I can’t wait to get it on the track but I might switch to the standard controller for street use.
can you expand on the flat part? Can’t tell if you think it’s a good thing or a bad thing
can you expand on the flat part? Can’t tell if you think it’s a good thing or a bad thing
there is no body roll when cornering. It takes a bit of the feeling of tossing the car ( weight transfer) around canyon roads. I think ultimately it will be significantly faster around a track.
Continued with the 60k mile major service and repair of an oil and intake leak.
Customized and reinstalled the new AOS. Because of the supercharger, on one the lines that runs to it requires a 90 degree bend. The original one had a 90 degree elbow glued into the front left side port. I did it a little differently on the new one I'm installing with a reducing sleeve, 90 degree elbow and some clamps from the hardware store.
Previous AOS Setup New, reconfigured AOS Setup New AOS Installed
Also had inaccurate oil pressure readings. The gauge would read 1.5-2 with the key on and the engine not running so would always read 5 even at idle except on the hottest of days with oil temp around 250 and then it would come down a bit. So while I had things apart in there, I installed a new oil pressure sending unit. Just need a 19mm crowfoot wrench and then it's not a bad job at all. Without it, I'm not sure how you'd get it done.
While I had access, I also removed the A/C compressor so I could replace the final timing chain tensioner. The Bank 2 one is more challenging than the IMS one and the Bank 1 side because the A/C compressor is in the way. Once you get that out, you have to loosen the power steering pump line enough to swivel the hard line up a bit so you can then access the two bolts that hold the Compressor mounting bracket to the motor. Once those are out and the bracket removed, you can get to the Bank 2 tensioner. Lock the motor at TDC with the cam lock tool by removing the 2 disposable plugs and lock the crankshaft pulley in place too. Unfortunately RUF did not create a hole in my crankshaft pulley so I had to lock the cams, then used a grip clamp to make sure the crank pulley couldn't move from it's correct position. I did the 3 tensioners 1 at a time and also marked 12 o'clock on the crank pulley so I could see if it moved at all during any of the tensioner replacements.
Also changed the camshaft position sensors and the variocam actuator solenoids as I was seeing some deviation on bank 2 versus bank 1. There's one bolt on each that's kind of difficult to reach, but with a long 1/4" ratchet extension, you can get to that one between the heat shields and the other from underneath the car.