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Wow, looks like the Qualcomm version is almost twice the price of a 4GB Ram Owtosin unit. ($330 vs $490+$80 shipping). Is it really worth the difference? Also going back I'm still curious if they're going to make a better revision for 2024 or not.
Wow, looks like the Qualcomm version is almost twice the price of a 4GB Ram Owtosin unit. ($330 vs $490+$80 shipping). Is it really worth the difference? Also going back I'm still curious if they're going to make a better revision for 2024 or not.
Originally Posted by Sylverlee
That’s what I was wondering as well.
Unfortunately "4GB Ram Owtosin unit" doesn't tell us what unit you're looking at. The Owtosin official store on Aliexpress has several different listings for 997 HUs:
now, of all those options, the only ones worth considering IMO are the 8/128 UIS7862 and the 6/128 Qualcomm 6125. Can you get away with a 4/64 for either of those 2 SoCs? Yeah, but I wouldn't recommend it. But the rest of the options are basically crap (using grossly outdated CPUs).
Wish I could find someone in CT or metro NYC that could install an android unit for me. I just don’t have the time to troubleshoot the install as most seem to be doing here.
I installed the backup camera, following all instructions to the letter - thanks @MattDevoCustoms - added pin#7 (salvaged from pin#1, a blue wire on the plug with all USB devices - thanks again @MattDevoCustoms , to F-Plug to provide power to the backup camera, spliced the black/blue wire behind the main fuse box near the driver's feet area, connected to the reverse trigger #3 brown wire in the main 16-pin harness -this wire was originally connected to the CAN BUS..
The camera definitely works, but that's all the HU does now. It just always shows the rear camera, even when not in reverse gear (manual)
Ideas what could be wrong?
PS - routing the powered RCA cable from the removed left tail light proved to be an extremely frustrating task that I eventually gave up on and found an easier path - my car is a convertible, perhaps that's why I had no luck with the recommended route?
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spliced the black/blue wire behind the main fuse box near the driver's feet area, connected to the reverse trigger #3 brown wire in the main 16-pin harness -this wire was originally connected to the CAN BUS..
The camera definitely works, but that's all the HU does now. It just always shows the rear camera, even when not in reverse gear (manual)
Ideas what could be wrong?
the only explanation is that you tapped the wrong wire, and that the wire you tapped has +12v when the ignition is on, so the HU thinks the car is always in reverse
the only explanation is that you tapped the wrong wire, and that the wire you tapped has +12v when the ignition is on, so the HU thinks the car is always in reverse
The wire was a thin gauge black/blue behind the fuse panel (I will attach pics shortly). It was in the middle of a large bunch of wrapped wires going up towards the windshield. There were no other black/blue wires that I could see, but I will check today and try another one I guess.
Update: - Pics Attached
You can see my 1st Blue/Black wire connection in a bundle that headed upwards into the left side of console on driver side.
Pic showing another blue/black wire (probably the same wire?) - this one travelling downwards to go along under carpet on drivers side towards rear of the car
Pic Showing added Pin#7 on F-Plug connected to red pig tail on RCA wire that goes to camera (power connected to the red pigtail at the other end using the included power plug for the red RCA on the short camera wire bundle
Pic showing main 16-pin connector on rear of unit - Pin#3 brown wire (2 up from black ground), which was taken out of the CAN BUS box and connected to a spade quick connect that then connects to black/blue wire
Since the camera works, and I have the same problem after splicing two black/blue wires with the trigger wire taken from the CAN BUS, could it be that this brown wire on Pin#3 of the large 16-pin connector is in fact NOT the trigger wire?
If so, how do I go about finding out which wire is the trigger?
UPDATE: Seller confirms that this wire is indeed the trigger. His diagram shows it as Pin#5 but it's in exactly the same place. Here's the pic they provided:
And could the problem also now involve the Pin#3 wire being removed from the CAN BUS?
I can't see how I have missed anything that was advised, and need some help trying to figure out this cluster ****
Thanks.
Since the camera works, and I have the same problem after splicing two black/blue wires with the trigger wire taken from the CAN BUS, could it be that this brown wire on Pin#3 of the large 16-pin connector is in fact NOT the trigger wire?
what do you mean "two black/blue wires"? You said you'd tapped one, and found another that you assumed was the same. Have you tried tapping both, with the same result? How about leaving the brown trigger wire disconnected?
If so, how do I go about finding out which wire is the trigger?
And could the problem also now involve the Pin#3 wire being removed from the CAN BUS?
it's in the unit documentation, on the unit itself, or on the item listing page. But if you have a 16-pin main plug, this is the pinout:
there is no possibility that removing the brown wire from the canbus box is causing the issue. The CANBUS box takes canbus messages, and outputs +12v trigger wires to the HU - for ignition on (ACC), for headlights (Ill), and for reverse. Your unit is always showing the reverse camera because the reverse trigger wire always has +12v applied to it. Disconnecting it from the black/blue wire is a simple test to verify this
When I said two, I mean that I have now tried connecting the trigger wire to two different wires - you can see this in my pic where I have left the t-tap on the first one I tried.
Both had same result, but I suspect they are the same wire.
To be clear in the image you added, the trigger wire (brown I took from the CAN BUS) should be Pin#5 (BACK), which I have now tried to splice to two black/blue wires that I showed in my images - it's the same wire in the seller provided image I attached in my last post.
I'm sure if I disconnect from the black/blue wire the camera will not work - could it be the black/blue wire is not the correct wire?
Is there any way I can test without putting t-taps all over the place? Any other possible wire color to splice the trigger to?
Would a multimeter help here to identify if these black/blue wires have power when ignition is on - best way to test?
I would think that if the suggested wire is black/blue then any black/blue would do the same thing in terms of what we are trying to achieve? How many black/blue wires could be in that bundle of wires?
PS - thank you for your continued help. When we figure this out, DM me your PayPal address and I'll send you a little something for your trouble.
Confirmed - disconnecting the trigger from the black/blue wire turns the camera off and the unit works normally
When I said two, I mean that I have now tried connecting the trigger wire to two different wires - you can see this in my pic where I have left the t-tap on the first one I tried.
Both had same result, but I suspect they are the same wire.
To be clear in the image you added, the trigger wire (brown I took from the CAN BUS) should be Pin#5 (BACK), which I have now tried to splice to two black/blue wires that I showed in my images - it's the same wire in the seller provided image I attached in my last post.
I'm sure if I disconnect from the black/blue wire the camera will not work - could it be the black/blue wire is not the correct wire?
Is there any way I can test without putting t-taps all over the place? Any other possible wire color to splice the trigger to?
Would a multimeter help here to identify if these black/blue wires have power when ignition is on - best way to test?
I would think that if the suggested wire is black/blue then any black/blue would do the same thing in terms of what we are trying to achieve? How many black/blue wires could be in that bundle of wires?
PS - thank you for your continued help. When we figure this out, DM me your PayPal address and I'll send you a little something for your trouble.
Confirmed - disconnecting the trigger from the black/blue wire turns the camera off and the unit works normally
It sure seems like the black/blue wire in the kickpanel bundles is not a reverse signal. Perhaps it is blue w/black stripe?
I couldn't find any such reverse signal wire on @jonan 's 997.1 which is why I used the black/blue wire under the seat.
I found another black/blue in the same bundle as the second attempt. Should I try that or start looking for blue with black stripe?
I really can't speak definitively here but I would try the other black/blue. I was merely speculating on the color reverse, I've not checked the wiring diagrams or thoroughly re-checked this/other threads where camera install is discussed
@MattDevoCustoms thanks for the reply.
I'll try the other one.
I did find a post for a 2016 boxster where the dealer has advised it was a blue wire with a black stripe - the wires I see are mostly black with a blue stripe, I can't find a blue wire with a black stripe not even under the seat.
I did see another video where they also didn't want to tap into the taillight. They simply connected the brown wire we removed from the CAN BUS to the red pigtail of the RCA which provider power and worked for triggering the backup cam.
They didn't say if the car was a manual or auto, but perhaps you would know if this method would only be possibly on an auto car?
I was guessing it would be a manual, otherwise they would have just left the brown wire on the CAN BUS?
@MattDevoCustoms thanks for the reply.
I'll try the other one.
I did find a post for a 2016 boxster where the dealer has advised it was a blue wire with a black stripe - the wires I see are mostly black with a blue stripe, I can't find a blue wire with a black stripe not even under the seat.
I did see another video where they also didn't want to tap into the taillight. They simply connected the brown wire we removed from the CAN BUS to the red pigtail of the RCA which provider power and worked for triggering the backup cam.
They didn't say if the car was a manual or auto, but perhaps you would know if this method would only be possibly on an auto car?
I was guessing it would be a manual, otherwise they would have just left the brown wire on the CAN BUS?
if you have an auto, the canbus box handles the triggering.
connecting the trigger wire to the red piggyback lead on the RCA cable only makes sense if the other end is connected to a trigger source (eg, the reverse light itself)
09-21-2023, 12:31 PM
