The CD changer connector is six pin, but only three wires are installed

A1 - 0.5mm Red/Green - Term 30 (12V power)
A2 - 0.5mm Brown/Brown - Term 31 (Ground)
A3 - 0.35mm White/Read - Wake up signal from head unit

 

Mounted in Frunk and only things that hung me up were getting solid power connection and getting the PCM to recognize the the Mr 12V and phone to operate through speakers.

-Power issue solved with direct splice Black to Brown & Red to Red/Green (the splice clips provided didn't seem to provide stable connection).
-PCM to recognize Mr. 12V solved by putting DIP 3 to OFF
-Phone to operate through Speakers solved but putting DIP 4 to OFF

Also found that Mr 12V tucks perfect behind the rear mount for the CD Changer and with the NAV/AMP cover providing just enough tension to keep it snug. A zip tie through the outboard center screw hole works slick for added level of security. Wires tuck nicely right below in small carpet cutout channel.

 

Hmmm, maybe my issue isn't with finding a proper ground but actually getting a good consistent power connection. Something to look into. Thanks!

 

Assuming that I might be having a consistent power issue, is there any reason I couldn't use my spare vampire clip and just double up for the power? Is that how electricity works? I have an extra clip because I grounded to the chassis. I'm being lazy and I don't feel like stripping and t-splicing the wires.

Sorry for the dumb question! Electronics scare me.

 

The power supply going to CD CHANGER in Frunk did not require a t-Splice an I had luxury of clippping required wires about 2” from original plug end and then connect with some insulated crimps. Easy enough to return back to original plug if desired at some point.
There are probably better inline connectors available from a specialty electronics shop or online search. I just found the splice connectors included in kit to be low budget and If you don’t get the wire set properly in the grooves of the metal splice blade it’s very easy to end up cutting right through wire.

Frunk wire splice into power

 

Thanks to everyone for the great information on this thread. Ordered a unit today to replace an old Bluetooth system installed years ago. The problem I know I will have is the 5mm Hex locking "nuts" on the sides of my PCM unit are going bad. I struggled to get the unit out and then back in, so my question is has anyone run into this and been able to fix or replace these finicky Porsche locking parts? Thanks

 

Completed the upgrade today, after removing an old Transit Blu that had died after only a few years of use. Tranist Blu used RF vs the MOST in this new unit, so it was OKAY quality at best.
I have to say that Mr 12 Volt is far superior for sound and integration with the PCM.
MANY THANKS to everyone that posted help in this thread as it made this project so much easier than for me!

 

Does anyone know if after all this time a version of LAPower (or anything similar) has been produced for PCM 3 for a 997.2 (non-bose)?

 

Just got finished.... a 30 - 45 min job actually... after some research and videos... easy peasy!

i have no CD changer in Frunk... Bose, 997.1 TT, used the install method 1 from Mr 12 Volt. Stupid easy.

it’s been sitting in my garage for like 7 months... a little early Father’s Day present to myself (taking the time) tonight to knock it out. It’s in the 70s here and beautiful night... 4 beers in I don’t know if life gets any better than this!

 

Last year I posted the above and now considering the rental of Duramettic s/w. However, the software has the capability of accessing numerous features with some that I'd like to leave as is. I seem to recall a very useful posting having to do with a Porsche various audio options, but I am not sure of the wording needed to search out the posting. From what I remember, there were several on/off options allowing the CDR23 radio to access a CD player (or Mr12v). In short, its my intention that the rental of Durametric s/w not do more harm than good. Any help with this is appreciated.

BTW, using my phone's BT, I can see and link up to the Mr12v so the unit has dc power, Also, the radio/amp works fine so I believe the optical circuit including the Mr12v is fine. Therefore the only variable seems to be the programming of the CDR23 radio using Durametric s/w. If there's anything I missed, please let me know. Thanks.

 

This place is just full of so much awesome information! I just installed this on my 997.1 c4s! Look forward to listening to my own music from now on

It was relatively easy to install, still took ~ 2 hours in the sweltering heat due to not having the right tools to take out the cd player (while leaving the backet in). There were very little room to turn the screw near the amp, that caused a lot of delay.

This was what I used as a guide to take out the cd changer: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-turb...l#post12672215

I basically put the unit inside the frunk, removed the cd changer, and plugged the fiber that the cd changer uses directly into the unit. I then splice the power cable onto the power cable for the cd player. Didn't install the mic because I rarely make phone calls while driving, so only need music.

 

Awesome. every little inch gained in the C4S frunk is useful! Glad it worked out for you. Makes such a nice update to the pcm

 

Hi, and thank you all. I've wanted a 911 basically my entire life, and finally took the plunge and picked up an '07 911 Carrera S Cab (manual!) on BAT. I wanted a cab to remove temptation to take it to the track (I have a fully gutted and caged E30 M3 racecar).

Anyway, I really want bluetooth and was thrilled to find this thread. I thought my car had the phone module and was looking forward to what I thought would be a simple install, but nope... No "install SIM" message, and nothing but bare metal under my passenger's seat behind the carpet (and some appointment cards from the previous owner). So, back to the main way--to remove the PCM. Well, I failed on step one. All the videos on removing the PCM tell you to find the torx screw in the carpet below the power outlet. I've attached a screen capture from one of the videos. Well, there is no torx below my power outlet--and in fact my power outlet isn't even in carpet--it's in a piece of plastic with an HVAC vent. I'm guessing this might be a cab-specific thing, but I couldn't find any cab specific videos. I assume I need to remove the large carpeted panel below the HVAC vent, and I pulled on it pretty hard with a plastic trim removal tool to no avail. I'm afraid to break it. Anyone know how to get it off?

Thank you in advance!!!!

Tim

What the videos all show.

What my car looks like

 

Ahhh. what you have is the passenger side floor subwoofer. Coupes have the subwoofer behind rear seat.

Ok. so the center piece in the mouth opening that looks like a whale tail just snaps in. lift up from the thin part at the base of the whale tale shaped plastic. it should snap right out with a bit of force. Behind that is the torx screw you are looking for. remove torx scew and that mouth opening should come out along with the lighter jack..

Next, the subwoofer will feel a bit loose but still held in place by a tongue and groove type setup. remove the floor mat first. then you want to grap the front part of the sub and pull straight back towards the rear of the car. this will clear the tongue and groove layout and then pull it towards you and the passenger door. Undo power/audio clip from back of sub. pay close attention to how tongue and groove set up works. Some times it gets finicky when trying to reinstall the subwoofer when done.
One last tip when removing PCM. Once you figure out how to loosen the allen release screws on pcm, 1/2 turn up or down, do not forget to remove silver screw on side of pcm passenger side only between two allen release screws. Play around with ope ing and closing glove compartment for better access to screws. the allen release screws are more of a lock/unlock mechanism, but the silver screw needs to almost come out completely to clear PCM for removal.. It will make sense when you see it. Patience and a proper tool is your friend.

Best of luck!!! keep us postes!!

 

Thank you! With your help, I got the PCM out.

I thought you meant the entire plastic "tail" would come out, but then the little fin in the middle pulled right out, exposing the first torx to be removed. One thing to add; there are actually two torx screws to remove. The first holds the aux power in as you described, and the second hold the subwoofer in. I've put a picture of the second one below. Unfortunately I ran out of light and so my PCM is still out of the car; I just got the enfig mic placed, but have to run the wires and tap the fiber and power for the bluetooth unit. Unfortunately the plastic tabs at the very top of both side trim pieces of the PCM broke off--I didn't think I pulled too hard, but perhaps I did--or they were already broken. Anyway, my suspicion is that it won't matter since those pieces are also head by two torx.

I was surprised to see that it appears Porsche used some sort of power tap instead of a proper splice behind the PCM. The last picture is of what appears to be a factory tap?
At first I thought it was something aftermarket, but the power tap when into a silver Porsche control box that sits behind the PCM.

Thanks!


The aux power piece without its plastic fin.

The plastic fin removed from the aux power plastic piece.

The top of the subwoofer--one more Torx to remove.

Closeup of the torx that has to be removed to get the cab subwoofer out.


Seems like an odd solution for power from the factory, no?