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You get much driving in, how's the change to rwd feel?
Not much seat time yet, but the steering does feel more direct. That probably has as much or more to do with the shocks/spring rates and solid control arm bushings. Need to get more miles in and find somewhere I can slide it around a bit.
Tighter all around for sure. Seems to be a little more responsive.
Kirk
Congratulations on the thoughtful mods. You should enjoy the RWD conversion.
An interesting choice of wheel sizes. With as 10 MM spacer on the rear you're essentially running an 11.3 (?) inch rear wheel. Never seen that combination before!
Congratulations on the thoughtful mods. You should enjoy the RWD conversion.
An interesting choice of wheel sizes. With as 10 MM spacer on the rear you're essentially running an 11.3 (?) inch rear wheel. Never seen that combination before!
Really love the wheel style and wanted to run 19's. Apex doesn't make this wheel in 19x12. I considered the VS-5RS in 19x12 +46 for the rear, but 305 is pretty stretched on a 12 although I know a lot of people do it. Very happy with my choice!
Really love the wheel style and wanted to run 19's. Apex doesn't make this wheel in 19x12. I considered the VS-5RS in 19x12 +46 for the rear, but 305 is pretty stretched on a 12 although I know a lot of people do it. Very happy with my choice!
Kirk
Agree on Apex wheels and SM10 are very close and similarly look, price, and capability of the OZ Allegerita's. Someone asked just now re alignment? and I was wondering more even about your ride height, given you also have new coilovers. From the angled pic above, ride height looks ok to me ( I always prefer low ) and wonder if you'll end up fiddling with their adjustability. Again, good stuff - Enjoy!
Agree on Apex wheels and SM10 are very close and similarly look, price, and capability of the OZ Allegerita's. Someone asked just now re alignment? and I was wondering more even about your ride height, given you also have new coilovers. From the angled pic above, ride height looks ok to me ( I always prefer low ) and wonder if you'll end up fiddling with their adjustability. Again, good stuff - Enjoy!
Working on getting the final alignment specs from my shop. The Tarett top mounts on the Ohlins are adjustable and give an additional 0.9 (?) degrees of negative camber... Ride height is 20mm lower than stock. Could go a little lower, maybe, but I have a relatively steep driveway entry.
Working on getting the final alignment specs from my shop. The Tarett top mounts on the Ohlins are adjustable and give an additional 0.9 (?) degrees of negative camber... Ride height is 20mm lower than stock.
I tried the Tarrets long ago ( the red ones? ) and the did allow for some further adjustability if memory serves. I also have an alignment in the very near future as I'm replacing fronts to go with the new rears that I wont even scrub until I sort out the "Spring Refresh".
I just snagged two Pirelli P Zeros at $130.00 a copy in 235-40-18 which is definitely a "close out" price from Tire Rack. They're usually $200 +/- per.
This all puts me a "new" area ( first time replacing all 4 corners ) with no known ( to me ) alignment folks close by, so I guess it'll have to be my local National chain store for install and alignment. With at least a Hunter machine and factory Gt2 specs inside the computer, how much can they screw up?! ( famous last words ). So, soon new brakes and tires all around, which should take care of being able to stop and go for the upcoming driving season(s).
I had the Tarett upper mounts on our 997TT and they added less than 1* camber and were not adjustable. If you are worried about the front CVs I would combine upper mounts like Tarett with a mildly adjusted GT3 lower arm. For a street car around -1.75 to -2 front camber is a good place to be.
I ended up only needing to buy Brey-Krause part #R-9040 Recaro Slider Adapter. I was going to make/fab them myself but after I tried learning Fusion360 and realized I was designing a part that was a safety concern and figured the off the shelf version would be the best bet. A few days later, the adapters showed up and I had the seats installed in about 45 minutes.
I also got the Numeric pedal set last week and put them in. Took all of 15 minutes. Very impressed with the quality, fit and finish of all the Numeric parts I've installed to date. The new hinge assembly on the throttle pedal took ALL the play out and it feels great now. The extra size on the pedals does help with heel/toe. I need some more time in the car to get everything adjusted perfectly.
I THINK I might need to do modify the side adapters on the seats to lower the front a little more. The seats do lay back quite a bit with this set up.
Hoping to wrap up the prep on the interior pieces soon, so I can finish up that project and get them all painted and PPF'd.
I have the Numeric pedals also in my 997. I omitted the logo to keep it more OEM as they perfectly match the factory silver accents on the interior. I really like the fact that you don't have to drill anything thus keeping it fully reversible. I skipped the Numeric dead pedal which seemed needlessly heavy. They are very nice pedals but my gripe is that the brake pedal is bit too wide at the base. I wish they tapered more on lower portion of the right side. My foot tends to clip it on occasion when moving from the gas pedal to the brake pedal. The brake pedal on my 996 is tapered more for this reason and I never have those issues there. Other than that, the Numeric pedals are a very nice product.
Oh yeah, the customer support at Numeric is nonexistent. 0 on a scale of 1-10. They take your money and two month later you get the product.
Last edited by powdrhound; 02-05-2024 at 11:11 PM.
I'm about to do same on brakes. Mind if I ask what brand rotor pad combo you went with? I have always used either Zimmerman or ATE rotors ( least expensive OEM replacements ) and Textar ( again OEM equivalent ) pads but last swap the "squeal" was annoying to the point of embarrassment.
The latest iteration of pads seems to have been "improved"? and I might try those "dampers" too. Latest iteration of Textar's have larger backing plate/surface area, and it's been a few years so I cannot recall if I had the "newer improved" pads or not. "Anti-Squeal" Textar's is a joke that tells itself.
Also, did you replace all the hardware? I did not last time, so probably will this time. Lot of questions! But thanks in advance for any advice you ( or anyone? ) can offer.
I just used the Sebro slotted rotors from FCP and Textar pads, which I like aside from dust. Mine are quiet, never had a squeal. The new rotors are a huge improvement (I was on the originals at 21 years, which were getting to be in very sad shape).
Reset my TPS/TCU today to liven' it up alittle bit as its been awhile since I drove it since the roads are finally clear now and salt free. I need to buy more stuff so i can post about it here!
I just used the Sebro slotted rotors from FCP and Textar pads, which I like aside from dust. Mine are quiet, never had a squeal. The new rotors are a huge improvement (I was on the originals at 21 years, which were getting to be in very sad shape).
Thanks for the reply. I'm going to go this time with the set @Scrh1 posted from Brembo since the price and kit is tough to beat and is OEM also. I've always had success with simply OEM replacements and am thinking perhaps I ( tried ) squeezed a bit too much longevity from the last set of rotors and that contributed to hot weather "squeal"? Who knows. There's a definitive "lip" on the fronts now so its "time". I think I *normally* get about 2 to 1 ratio on pads to rotors if memory serves. It's actually been a few years on this last set now that the car is not diving up and down steep canyons every day.
It's amazing the difference in the life of "wear items", based simply upon changing driving conditions and geography!
02-02-2024, 02:06 PM
