pfbz

It is stone-axe simple...

There are two female 1/2" spade connectors that connect to the lower clutch switch. You want to remove the females from the switch and permanently short them together. Leave nothing connected to the clutch switch.

Take two male spade connectors, crimp one on each end of a short piece wire to make a jumper, or just grab a standard automotive fuse (I'd use 10A or greater just to be safe) and use that as a jumper.

If you use a fuse or already have a jumper made, you could literally do it in less than 60 seconds, including zip-tying it out of the way.

pfbz

I bet you would adjust to it quicker than you think... What if you had an actual 996 GT2 or GT3 with the identical clutch setup?

powdrhound

I suspect the guys that hate the GT clutch have not actually driven the car for more than a few minutes with ALL the proper supporting pieces including the correct assist spring which is often times omitted in the conversion. If you just sit in the car and depress the clutch it will feel unnaturally stiff. If you actually drive it for 10+ minutes, the GT clutch will feel 100% natural in short order and will feel perfectly in tune with the nature of the car. I don't know anyone that drives a GT2/3/Cup that whines about crutch stiffness. I used to drive my car in stop and go traffic and never had any issues with the clutch effort. On the flip side, I have driven converted Turbos with a super stiff clutch when the conversion was not done correctly or some modded pressure plate was used. If one has some type of leg muscle atrophy or weakness the assist system works well albeit at the expense of additional weight, complexity, and maintenance that comes along with it.

A couple of week ago I was helping a friend set up his TT for the track. He had the full GT2 suspension set up with Motons and all the supporting parts except he still had the OEM boosted clutch and the DMFW. The soft spongy clutch felt very weird for the first few laps and the rev matching took a bit of getting used to due to the lazy engine response but all it took was 3 to 4 laps to where it felt normal with the car comfortably clicking away sub 2 min laps at HPR. It works the same the other way around too. Just takes a bit of seat time for the clutch to feel "normal". In the end, do what feels good personally...

Dock

My issue wit the GT2 clutch is that it's outside the other controls in terms of weighting; it stands out. I like a homogeneous feeling between all the controls.

2fcknfst

AND, it's for a 2wd case, not an AWD case.

Matt and I were having this discussion yesterday; the BBi solution was designed for the turbo's AWD case, the GT2 slave conversion requires modifying (read: drilling) the AWD case to work, amongst other things as noted above. To my mind, there is more risk associated with trying to re-engineer the GT2 solution versus a solution that was engineered for the turbo.

I'm not at all saying that there haven't been many successes with this modification, and that it doesn't work, rather, when I have modified a tranny case in the past, bad things then happened - and that was a very expensive lesson to learn.

Dock

I haven't driven a BBi modified 996 Turbo so can't opine regarding the clutch weighting. If it is outside the feedback weight of the other controls then I personally wouldn't want it. For me it's about achieving as much balance as I can.

2fcknfst

It is actually nicely weighted against the UMW GT3RS4.0 CK and LWFW.

My primary motivator to do the change was that there have been 2 accumulator failures and I didn't want another.

John D II

Completely agree. At first it's shocking. After a week you don't even notice or think about. The drivability is far superior.

s65e90

The BBI design is just to not have to drop and drill/tap the case. The OE is 100% worth it, the case is the same, the provisions are already there.

2fcknfst

Once, about 13 years ago, my 5r110 in my 6.0l was eating torque converters. The tech at the time suggested that I could drill an inspection hole at the 6 o'clock position (as the 4r100 had) in order to make sure nothing was leaking from the TC relatively easily. I could tap the hole in the 5r110 so that the 4r100 cover would fit in the hole.

In theory, I thought this was a good idea.

In practice, I was running down a 'improved' road way up north Alberta and the best I could make of what happened was the plug fell out at some point and I somehow managed to ingest a big enough rock that at first, banged around between the bell housing and TC, then in a rather impressive display of catastrophic failure, jammed itself in such a way that it not only punch a hole through the bell housing, but also managed to bugger the TC and wreck the rear main seal, resulting in many fluids all over the place.

Several things were learnt that day:

1) It was immediately obvious why Ford 'removed' the inspection port from the 4r100 design when the 5r110 went into production
2) Techs in Northern Alberta were, for the most part, total idiots (as was I for listening to him)
3) I had to wait for 5 hours before a tow truck got to me in -30c weather, which I found to be most unpleasant
4) Many thousands of dollars of damage was done to my very special ATS fully built tranny, bell housing and the motor

The take away?

Don't drill cases.

Most work I undertake on vehicles (cars, trucks, bikes) is usually born from some kind of negative experience. This one was expensive, and, potentially very hazardous to my life because of the weather conditions. My experience with Ford transmissions has been less than stellar; I have, in fact, had more transmission related failures than all other failures combined. So much so it makes me feel very paranoid about gear boxes.

But hey, others seem to have positive experiences, so, yay!

mchrist

Started adding a SOUL sport exhaust to the 996. More to follow.....My editing skills are... to say the least, lacking.

Dock

The way I remember it (it's been 19+ years) the OEM clutch took several months to figure out in terms of launching and shifting smoothly. But after that it's been like playing a Stradivarius (at least to me.)

When starting out from a stop I keep my left heel firmly planted on the floor and use foot dorsiflexion to a remembered foot-to-shin angle which is JUST before the beginning of the clutch engagement point. This point is backed up by a remembered distance between the pedal fully depressed position and the engagement point. From there I can precisely control the engagement as required for the conditions using the precision of dorsiflexion. For me this is a very precise and repeatable move.

Dock

My initial take was that you were wearing some kind of welding mask. Then I thought it was a full face scuba helmet. Then I thought you may be a Dementor.

mchrist

was simply trying to protect the identity of those who did not acquiesce to be posted. i don't think they would have minded, tbh. I was trying to insert an emoji but couldn't figure it out

2fcknfst

THAT was funny.