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Modeled and printed some airbox clips out of ABS. I printed them 45° to the X-Y plane and added some ribs for strength but not a huge fan of how they came out. I think the airbox looks fine without them.
Modeled and printed some airbox clips out of ABS. I printed them 45° to the X-Y plane and added some ribs for strength but not a huge fan of how they came out. I think the airbox looks fine without them.
Adjust the settings, but in the interim, use a soldering iron to smooth them out. They'll be fine.
Thanks. I printed them with a raft which is why the flat surface looks so grainy. PLA is so much easier to print than ABS. I also installed a direct driver extruder and a spool of TPU. Going to try it for flexible rubber parts.
I was finally able to get a picture of the other exhaust my car had on it. The PO was out of town for a while. The car was said to have a B&B Exhaust but has a stock exhaust on it. The one at the sellers house is also a stock exhaust, hah. He thinks the one on the car sounds a lot different than a stock Turbo. Are there mods to the internals that are done to flow better or make it louder?
I seem to recall the Fister D mod - drilling a hole in the muffler somewhere. Maybe that was just for NA cars.
Yes, you can drill a 3/4 to 1 inch hole right at the exit elbow of a stock exhaust which creates a direct flow path from the cats. It also improves the sound without being overly loud or droney. I have this style of modded OEM exhaust currently on my car.
Probably more like I simply can't remember any "difference". But I do remember and still prefer the Kline I replaced it with, when they were first made available.
Thank you for the exhaust info. I was wanting to try the "B&B" exhaust that might have been but I did not want to pay shipping in a wooden crate for a drone-o-matic setup.
All MCS/JRZ/Motons use an aluminum shock tube. The tender/main spring connecting piece (especially the 2.25" spring one) has very little clearance between it and the body of the shock and has a tendency to rub slightly here and there as the tender spring compresses and uncompresses. This over time scuffs / rubs and damages the delicate aluminum shock tube. If you place the tenders on top of the mains springs, you will never have that issues. I learned the hard way years ago and since then always place the tenders on top. Functionally it makes no difference of course.
Last edited by powdrhound; 05-13-2024 at 12:50 PM.
All MCS/JRZ/Motons use an aluminum shock tube. The tender/main spring connecting piece (especially the 2.25" spring one) has very little clearance between it and the body of the shock and has a tendency to rub slightly here and there as the tender spring uncompresses. This over time scuffs / rubs and damages the delicate aluminum shock tube. If you place the tenders on top of the mains springs, you will never have that issues. I learned the hard way years ago and since then always place the tenders on top. Functionally it makes no difference of course.
05-10-2024, 06:06 PM
