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Old 05-18-2021, 03:38 PM
  #121  
zbomb
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Originally Posted by Mike Murphy
Stock Chevy motors actually have similar fates as the M96, unless oil and cooling mods have been made.
Yes... but the HUGE difference is those modifications:

1. Have been developed and known to work
2. THE BIG ONE - Are commercially available, not only are they commercially available but there is generally multiple different MFG competing for the best product and your business. For instance, a number of different dry sump options can be bought, today, on the internet for an LS and are by and large bolt-on.

Old 05-18-2021, 04:11 PM
  #122  
De Jeeper
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That lt2 is a factory dry sump.

the ls or lt platform still a posibilty but not really the motor i want if im gonna to track it, but It would be a riot on the street.

I would be doing all the work myself and i already have some of the parts.

I was really looking for an easier solution but not having a core to start with really impacts the budget.
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Old 05-18-2021, 05:26 PM
  #123  
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At one point Porsche was selling "remanned" 3.4 short blocks that were actually new engines, which required a core that did not have to be rebuildable. I seem to recall they were something like $7k.
Old 05-18-2021, 05:36 PM
  #124  
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As a question, these track days, does it matter what you run as long as it meets track safety requirements? In other words they don't care what you have for a motor? That is unless you are running some sort of event that requires something "stock"?
Old 05-18-2021, 06:15 PM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by De Jeeper
That lt2 is a factory dry sump.

the ls or lt platform still a posibilty but not really the motor i want if im gonna to track it, but It would be a riot on the street.

I would be doing all the work myself and i already have some of the parts.

I was really looking for an easier solution but not having a core to start with really impacts the budget.
If factory dry sump, LS7 without the direct injection probably worth a look for simplicity sake.

For me, I would go with the less expensive LS3, cam it and put maybe a Daley dry sump on that is a true dry sump unlike the GM factory setup.

I see tons of LS’s on track... some of them are very, very fast.

Regardless, I’ll keep an eye out for core motors for you man.

Last edited by zbomb; 05-18-2021 at 06:24 PM.
Old 05-18-2021, 06:33 PM
  #126  
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Originally Posted by nrp3
As a question, these track days, does it matter what you run as long as it meets track safety requirements? In other words they don't care what you have for a motor? That is unless you are running some sort of event that requires something "stock"?
For DE, PCA doesn't care what engine you are running as long as it doesn't leak and it's inside a Porsche body. Safety equipment will be taken into consideration for your run group. Club racing does care.
Old 05-18-2021, 06:43 PM
  #127  
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Yeah, I run a Ford for my track days with PCA!
Old 05-19-2021, 12:20 AM
  #128  
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Sorry no crank and rod bearing measurements tonight. Just too wiped out. I did get most of it boxed up but need a few more bins.

still researching and talking with race shops. I may try to call LN tomor and see what they have to offer if i want to build it myself.

after talking with one shop they think that the rod may have broke first and the damaged followed based on only having one hot bearing. He told me that they dont do a lot internally to keep them running as a track performer. He ssid just keeping the inside wet with oil and keeping the oil temp down goes a long way. He seems to think that since i was doing all the right things and the the rods in our motors a average at best, at 200k miles the #1 rod just let go. I dont ever think ill know for sure.
Old 05-19-2021, 07:21 AM
  #129  
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So, on the next build, stock rods or aftermarket? Originals seemed to live a long life.
Old 05-19-2021, 07:49 AM
  #130  
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Default Awesome maintenance

Originally Posted by GC996
I ask myself that question every day. It's an 02 with 56k miles. Been tracking it since 2004 but have been spotty with track days over the past 5 years due to kids/family events.

Have done everything you can do to it from a preventative standpoint early on in its life including: motorsports aos, Ims retrofit, deep sump oil pan. Have a great Porsche Indy (Midwest Eurosport) that is exceptional in taking care of it. Smart guys that are preventative when going over the car.

Have run Mobil 1 0-40 the whole time. After every track session I take it in immediately to the shop to change the oil and brake fluid. If I do 8 DE events in a year, that's 8 oil changes. While we haven't tested it for bore scoring, there are no signs of it.

​​​​​​Not afraid of high revs on the track with the engine, but learned early on that you don't have to beat the he'll out of your car to go fast around the track. So I learned "smoother was better" and how to carry more momentum.

So in answer to your question, I have been very lucky with my engine. But very early on preventative medicine with motorsport AOS, deep sump, Ims retro, plus obsessive oil changes, coupled with an exception Porsche shop probably helped.
Your durability is due to changing the oil as you do. Now, have you ever analyze your used oil after a race?? New oil is cheap insurance, but it could be overkill changing it after every race. If you ever do the sample of Mobil one, after a race look at fuel dilution, viscosity at 100c, AW package and TBn, also si (dirt). Top fuel dragsters change theirs after only a quarter mile, huge fuel dilution. Awesome thread
Old 05-19-2021, 09:47 AM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by nrp3
So, on the next build, stock rods or aftermarket? Originals seemed to live a long life.

A long life on the street but not on the track.

Most deffinately aftermarket for the next motor. It will be more $ but they will give me peace if mind.

Is there anyone that has a nice rebuild kit like LN? I keep staring at their site and i want to pull the trigger on a bunch of stuff. Its hard to be patient and non-impulsive.
Old 05-19-2021, 09:51 AM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by De Jeeper
A long life on the street but not on the track.

Most deffinately aftermarket for the next motor. It will be more $ but they will give me peace if mind.

Is there anyone that has a nice rebuild kit like LN? I keep staring at their site and i want to pull the trigger on a bunch of stuff. Its hard to be patient and non-impulsive.
Somewhere on Rennlist is a thread discussing various rebuild options and costs in a spreadsheet. Very helpful. If I can find it I'll attach the link.

look under "2019 Rebuild Options" .

Last edited by GC996; 05-19-2021 at 09:54 AM.
Old 05-19-2021, 09:54 AM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by De Jeeper
A long life on the street but not on the track.

Most deffinately aftermarket for the next motor. It will be more $ but they will give me peace if mind.

Is there anyone that has a nice rebuild kit like LN? I keep staring at their site and i want to pull the trigger on a bunch of stuff. Its hard to be patient and non-impulsive.
Skip put together some great info in this thread:

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...under-10k.html

He lists prices from Pelican mostly, but there are better deals if you shop around.
Old 05-19-2021, 10:55 AM
  #134  
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Thx guys. I remember that thread. Good info in there.

After talking to a second engine builder they think that upgrading the rods may be overkill for our hp level and its really the bolts that have the issue. Its hard to figure out what ia really needed.

This guy has good pricing with nickasil plating(not sleeves), vertex imsb (need to reasearch that one), opens up the rod bearings a smig for better oiling. Im sure he has a few other tricks as he has a couple hundred 3.4l rebuilds out and about. Also he also only 1.5hrs so im gonna go visit his shop. Its a pretty basic build that he says will survive a track and street duty for years. My issue is i always want to best but dont think i can afford it in this one.


Edit: so the vertex bearing is the eps one. No body start a debate over this or ill get the mods involved. I can change it to the Solution if i want for the reman.

Last edited by De Jeeper; 05-19-2021 at 11:15 AM.
Old 05-19-2021, 10:57 AM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by TexSquirrel
An RND engine would be the best quick solution IMHO.
Rebuilding it, or a replacement, yourself would make a great thread, and you could build it larger.
A FSI engine that’s purpose built for the track would be the best solution in my opinion.
Jake has ways to allow the engine to survive on the track, but that’s part of his secret sauce.
This, I have over 3k track miles on my Track Performer II. 90 percent of the miles at Brainerd and Road America. Both have long sweepers. I run R7's. Yes the pressure droops, but never goes to 0.


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