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Pipete84 - Have you checked the one-way check valve to manifold? That thing can wiggle out. I had the 1200 idle going on. That was the cause. Also make sure the o-ring on throttle body side of diaphragm-to-throttle body is seated properly. Those were the two boogers I had to ‘smoke out’.
Thanks a lot for these tips! Will definitely double check there. I ended up ordering the lower crossover pipe since it was only $50 and wanted to eliminate that as a possible cause and the fix is not the best, honestly. That way I don't have to think about it again. Possible it might have other micro cracks after I removed it. I will definitely recheck that valve though. I know I installed it back but will double check all the connections and the rubber Y and U connectors to make sure they don't have cracks. The plan is to start disassembling a few things tomorrow so I'm ready to go when the crossover pipe comes in from FCP.
I also ordered a set of the RS engine mounts to replace the stock, especially since one leaked out all the fluid.
She's alive and running strong! Thanks for the help Skip and gang. Below are two quick shots of the installed product taken during yesterdays test drive / country road rip:
I replaced that crossover flex pipe with a new one and boy was the old one shot by comparison. A little movement and you could hear cracking while the new OEM one had a decent amount of flex in it. I ended up installing the sealed AOS first, plugging in the pipe at the lower end and then threaded the pipe through the manifold sliding it into place. For the other side I found it the easiest to just remove the other manifold along with the power steering reservoir. I just removed the bit of fluid in there and placed a rag to catch the other bit that spilled. I had a new container of fluid so this was no big deal, provided enough room and I didn't have to remove the AC compressor. Then I just ran the pipe through the opening and slid the intake into place. Getting the two 10mm bolts was not too horrible. I used a extendable magnet to place them and then 10mm socket with an extension to tighten. The pipe that loops over the oil collector really needs to be connected properly as upon start up it got slightly loose causing hissing and an air leak. Once I got that seated and secured the idle has been solid - probably around 700ish RPM
I warmed up the car getting out of town and took it for a proper rip on some country roads gradually giving it more and more and it ran wonderfully and pulled very strong. No CELs and idle still rock solid at stop. The coolant line to the AOS delete has been fine too. No issues or leaks of any kind and I pushed the car hard. Per Aaron's advice, I picked up a manometer on Amazon to have. My reading at his place were sky high 60inH2O and the cap needed some persuasion to come off. When I got mine I checked it again before doing this job and it was still high but not as high - close to 20inH20. Checking twice yesterday after the drive with the engine nice and hot I've gotten a reading of around 2.7 - 3inH20 and the oil cap came of with no effort. I think Skip mentioned that with the UAOS the reading will be slightly lower and I know I have an extra vacuum line running from the back of the intake manifold to the elbow at the intake hose to throttle body point so I assume all that is in line.
More detailed photos in form of a DIY coming soon!
Thanks for confirming! Good to know the readings are in line with where they should be. And saw your other thread re. the light - good to know Perhaps it would be good to know what the part number is for the diaphragm in case it needs to be replaced. It's something you can throw in the tool box and swap out at the track in 5 mins if need be.
As for me it's off to racking up some more miles to further track oil consumption and praying the blown AOS was the cause!
Pushing oil into the Accumulator on high mileage cars can be caused by three things,(1) blow-by @ WOT excess of 170LPM (2) scavenge pump failure (3) diaphragm
(3) Diaphram :: 5 min test with Manometer 5 min replacement procedure on UAOS system
(2) Scavenge pump failure :: remove scavenge pumps and visually inspect for damage
(1) Blow-by @ WOT in excess of 170 LPM ::: Test blow-by with Manometer using the "Engine Health , Blow-by thread test procedure
Oil Control on high mileage engines for Track Performance can be further "enhanced" on the UAOS by installing a 12" long 1/4" NBR rubber drain hose from the Accumulator to the oil fill tube using 2 -1/4' x 1/8 npt nipples to attach the accessory drain hose. Using this accessory will stop the repeated warnings light activation for high mileage engines used on track..
This accessory will be made available soon on the UAOS website www.ultimateaos.com
I know most people here don't like testing the "real health" of the engine, even with the easy test procedure I designed, as evident by the number of people who have actually tested engines health. Most "don't want to know", and I can understand, if it still makes good power and no other symptoms, why care ? But his kind of detailed testing and minute hair splitting is what answers the mysterious questions of the unexplainable symptoms. Yes you can use the SWAG Method (Scientific Wild *** Guess ) when it can cause no harm, and err on the side of caution, but there is no substitute for hard work and real tests/data.
The UAOS is the most Technically Advanced/Sophisticated Crankcase Ventilation ever designed on one of the most Technical engines ever built . There is a good reason why it has been an established routine to "replace the AOS while your in there" as has been done for so long most people don't even know WHY it has been recommended so much to replace it. The simple fact is that it failed often AND the design was not adequate. Porsche re-designed the diaphragm 6 times, but failed to a "overall system re-design" that it needed. No reason to ever put a factory AOS on a 996.
Skip - I’ll take the drain back when it’s available.
I’ll be spending some time with the manometer this weekend.... which unfortunately for you, probably means I’ll be calling you at some point.
I’ll have to go back and see how the blow by testing was to be done at WOT.
Can you advise the PN of the diaphragm just in case.
I'm always available for support of my Inventions. Now worries, my life is simple now that I'm Semi-retired.
Although I don't think your diaphragm has failed ( it also has a 2 Year Unlimited Mileage Warranty) if you want one to put in your "Track Pack Tool Box " the UAOS diaphragm is part # 077103245B . I have tested/evaluated 8 different brands and recommend the URO for cost effectiveness/quality and the OEM VW for the Elite Versions.
Some were very poor quality and one in particular sounded like a "Goose quacking under the engine lid", so stick to recommended Brands.
Thanks for that response, Skip. I'll have to modify my oil cap to do the Engine Health test you mentioned. No such thing as too many data points in my book!
Thanks for that response, Skip. I'll have to modify my oil cap to do the Engine Health test you mentioned. No such thing as too many data points in my book!
Thanks man ! I love the data/tests,
I had someone do the test the other day that has 180 LPM of blow-by !!!!!
Not yet but the year code matches the year the car is on the engine sn. I guess i can see what dme data i can get as i just bought a real nice bi-directional Autel scaner.
Very excited for the oil drain back. I'll order as soon as it is available along with the AOS coolant block off kit.
Yes, thanks Kris, I know you were setting off the UAOS Warning pretty often on your high mile track car, it will be a big enhancement.
To those reading, the UAOS Accumulator normal service interval is to be checked/drained at " oil change service". Most all street drive cars with lower miles will have little to no accumulation at 5k miles intervals, and as the engine ages, the Warning will let you know and keep it safe as it ages gracefully..
04-18-2021, 05:50 PM
Perhaps it would be good to know what the part number is for the diaphragm in case it needs to be replaced. It's something you can throw in the tool box and swap out at the track in 5 mins if need be.
