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The way I do it by pinching the hoses off and then carefully pull the heater core straight up while using my fingers to block off the inlet and outlet, I lose about 2 tablespoons of coolant ... not need to bleed out the coolant because of this ... at least in my experience. I run the heater at high for a few minutes after all is back together just to be sure. I'm sure there will be someone who will say that you have to bleed the coolant system ... if that's how they have actually performed this repair, then great for them. I haven't had the need to do so.
Alright so between this thread and the last one I decided to say screw and attempt this fix. I have some things on order but I went ahead and began disassembly, so far it is way easier than I thought and has taken me about an hour. I am up to the point I need to cut the notch and take the arm off under the dash and then pull out the flap. This is the first project I've personally attempted with my 911 besides wheel spacers and it really is not bad so far. At this point, I would rate it a 3/10 in terms of difficulty. The only tricky part is some of the maneuvering you have to do.
Question, for the foam piece that covers the actual heat radiator, do you put a new seal down? A lot of that stuff got kind of mangled while I was trying to get it off. It's like a sticky putty that has a lot of stretch to it.
Is there enough space/access to apply new foam without pulling the flap out? An arthroscopic surgery equivalent?
Maybe if you have the world's tiniest hands. I can stick my hand down in there and feel the flap but I have zero room to maneuver. By the time you get to this point all you have left is the cap and bolt under the dash. The cap was the worst part so far, its hard to get in there and cut it.
This looks like a very practical project and because it addresses the outside air supply. The dehumidification must work better when in re circulation mode. I have noticed that the windows do not clear as fast anymore since the foam started blowing out at me..
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On a 996.1 how do you access the bottom pivot screw? Any pictures?
This looks like a very practical project and because it addresses the outside air supply. The dehumidification must work better when in re circulation mode. I have noticed that the windows do not clear as fast anymore since the foam started blowing out at me..
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On a 996.1 how do you access the bottom pivot screw? Any pictures?
What type of foam do you sue? Source?
Can't speak for OP but I have a 996.1, the bottom pivot screw would be where your left foot sits if you are a passenger in your car. There is a piece of thick foam under your dash and you can peel it back enough to get the little bolt out. The area is easy to spot because its the only piece down there that is pink. It is awkward to get in there but the arm will come off once you undo the bolt. After the bolt and arm are out you can use a pick to pull out the plastic cylinder connected to the flap itself. I just ordered some generic HVAC foam adhesive and I think I am going to wrap it in some HVAC foil as well.
I charge $75 for the entire job including vacuuming out/cleaning out the vents and defrosters to get as much of the black foam material out that seems to get everywhere.
I charge $75 for the entire job including vacuuming out/cleaning out the vents and defrosters to get as much of the black foam material out that seems to get everywhere.
That is a great price considering what labor is here in the NE. I could see how you could blow through this real quick once you've done it a few times. Honestly, the only bad part is getting the cap off and getting under the dash is just a bit awkward. That being said I am a bit nervous to put it back together, at least getting the flap back in. How do you know if it's seated properly?
Once the pivots are put back in and before you attach the lower lever arm off the electric motor (passenger footwell), you should be able to move the flap back and forth freely. If it does this, it’s seated correctly
02-24-2020, 05:51 PM
