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Old 05-19-2024, 04:35 PM
  #10021  
hatchetf15
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Originally Posted by gtxracer
I installed the freshly refurbished Fikse FM10s and went to C&C.

Man, those Fikse’s look the shiznit with that amazing green!
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Old 05-22-2024, 06:16 PM
  #10022  
SimJen
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I didn't like the previous cap mod for my intake, so quickly modelled a new one in Fusion and printed.
Added a groove for a rubber o-ring and its a tight fit install, with some silicone added to hold it in for sure.
Used an old centre cap logo to add some flair lol.
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Old 05-22-2024, 06:34 PM
  #10023  
Woodman71
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Originally Posted by 2mAn
Added a Carrera side stripe
Stunning! Curious if you considered blue?



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Old 05-22-2024, 07:53 PM
  #10024  
peterp
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Originally Posted by SimJen
I didn't like the previous cap mod for my intake, so quickly modelled a new one in Fusion and printed.
Added a groove for a rubber o-ring and its a tight fit install, with some silicone added to hold it in for sure.
Used an old centre cap logo to add some flair lol.
What type of filament did you use to print it? I don't know a lot about it, but PLA may not be ideal for engine compartments temps. I think printed ABS can handle higher temps, but we had issues when we tried to print with ABS.

You probably know more about it than I do, but just mentioning because you wouldn't want melty stuff to go in to the intake
Old 05-22-2024, 07:58 PM
  #10025  
SimJen
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Originally Posted by peterp
What type of filament did you use to print it? I don't know a lot about it, but PLA may not be ideal for engine compartments temps. I think printed ABS can handle higher temps, but we had issues when we tried to print with ABS.
You probably know more about it than I do, but just mentioning because you wouldn't want melty stuff to go in to the intake
Using PLA+, if its hot enough to melt it then my paint will be melting on the boot lid!
I wouldn't use it on a part bolted to the metal of the engine though.
Old 05-22-2024, 09:27 PM
  #10026  
binaryaudax
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I wouldn't worry about melting, but PLA (plus or not) gets soft and pliable at roughly 150F
Old 05-22-2024, 10:29 PM
  #10027  
SimJen
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Originally Posted by binaryaudax
I wouldn't worry about melting, but PLA (plus or not) gets soft and pliable at roughly 150F
not really that soft though, I've got other parts on other vehicles that are fine. As long as there is no metal contact to heat soak the PLA.
Old 05-22-2024, 10:42 PM
  #10028  
SoCal911t
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Originally Posted by SimJen
I didn't like the previous cap mod for my intake, so quickly modelled a new one in Fusion and printed.
Added a groove for a rubber o-ring and its a tight fit install, with some silicone added to hold it in for sure.
Used an old centre cap logo to add some flair lol.
If the logo falls off, one of my Mobil 1 stickers would look great there.





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Old 05-23-2024, 12:53 AM
  #10029  
2mAn
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Originally Posted by Woodman71
Stunning! Curious if you considered blue?

I was very tempted to go with a RS blue like what you photoshopped, but as mine has Metropol Blue interior I decided I wanted to go with a midnight blue. Its subtle, which was my goal

Its a little more visible from this angle

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Old 05-23-2024, 03:06 PM
  #10030  
wyovino
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I have a few PLA+ parts in my car but none in the engine compartment. Michael on the Teaching Tech YouTube channel is a car enthusiast in addition to being a 3D printing guru. He uses Apollo X filament that is heat and petroleum resistant for things he puts into the engine bay. I bought a spool but haven't used it yet. Pricier than PLA+ but might be worth it. I've found that UV light is more detrimental to PLA+ than heat is, so I generally clearcoat things that will be outdoors and haven't had any issues. I did an experiment a few years ago and left an untreated PLA+ part on the dashboard of my VW, which was not garaged. After about 6 months of being exposed to the sun, it just turned to dust when I grabbed it.

The beauty of 3D printing parts is that you can always print more if you're worried that they're starting to fail. I 3D printed replacement Cabriolet caps and Becker radio ***** 4 years ago and they're still going strong.

Last edited by wyovino; 05-23-2024 at 03:13 PM.
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Old 05-23-2024, 05:06 PM
  #10031  
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Washed the car and applied a spray wax. Modern spray wax is so much faster than the old school paste. Sure, the paste lasts longer, but it is such a PITA to apply and remove.

Pro tip: I found an old Weed Eater Power Blower 2510 high-powered corded leaf blower at an estate sale for like $20. Absolutely PERFECT for drying cars. According to documentation I found online, it blows 110 MPH 🤯. It's so powerful, I need ear protection when using it. I also have a cordless Milwaukee leaf blower, and it's like a kid's toy compared to this thing.

I literally had the car dry in about 2 minutes, including the engine bay.

Oh, and the Turbo wheels are soooo easy to clean. Lots of big flat surfaces.

This is the smallest car I've owned in a while. It's so satisfying to get it washed and waxed so quickly.
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Old 05-23-2024, 05:37 PM
  #10032  
cqhall
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After a little online shopping, I've found that one can get a similarly powerful electric blower new for under $50. And for $100, one that can blow 260mph!
Old 05-23-2024, 06:52 PM
  #10033  
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Originally Posted by cqhall
Pro tip: I found an old Weed Eater Power Blower 2510 high-powered corded leaf blower at an estate sale for like $20. Absolutely PERFECT for drying cars. According to documentation I found online, it blows 110 MPH 🤯. It's so powerful, I need ear protection when using it. I also have a cordless Milwaukee leaf blower, and it's like a kid's toy compared to this thing.
Cool. A few months ago I started doing the same thing with my leaf blower. Very fast, and then just a little touch-up with a small microfiber towel. No longer have to worry if my towel is doing any damage to the finish. And it can blow water out of the mirrors and various seams and cracks -- which often shed a few drops, and the resulting hard-water streaks, on the newly cleaned car when I pull it back into the garage.
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Old 05-23-2024, 08:43 PM
  #10034  
SoCal911t
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For you guys doing 3D printing, what model printer are you using? A few years ago when I was looking, a company called 'Creality' seemed to have good reviews but a current search shows a unit from 'Bambu Labs' seeming to be well liked at $700.00.


Originally Posted by cqhall
I also have a cordless Milwaukee leaf blower, and it's like a kid's toy compared to this thing.
Milwaukee must make more than one model. Mine is rated at 120mph and easily blows my leaves into the neighbor's yard. I went with Milwaukee over something cheaper because I already have so many tools that use their battery.
Old 05-23-2024, 09:13 PM
  #10035  
cqhall
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Originally Posted by SoCal911t
Milwaukee must make more than one model. Mine is rated at 120mph and easily blows my leaves into the neighbor's yard. I went with Milwaukee over something cheaper because I already have so many tools that use their battery.
Yeah, I just searched and found out that they make several models. There was only one in the hardware store when I got mine, the Milwaukee 0852-20 that uses the M12 battery system. I chose that one because I use the M12 system for my tools. I'm not a pro, so I don't need the all-day power that the M18 would provide. Actually, I've never run out of juice using the power tools. Only when using the leaf blower when blowing off the driveway and whatnot.

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