When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
really bad bumps on a main road. Think mini speed bumps every 50-100ft. Just poor New England roads. Sad part it was a main road in southern ri (rt.4 near south county commons)
today I ordered elephant racing quick connect camber plates. I also installed my turbo leather carbon fiber steering wheel.
Last edited by BaconManDan; 04-22-2024 at 09:41 PM.
really bad bumps on a main road. Think mini speed bumps every 50-100ft. Just poor New England roads. Sad part it was a main road in southern ri (rt.4 near south county commons)
Sorry to see the damage. I hear you on the roads. Out of curiosity, what was the actual damage to the coilover and what did KW say?
I worked on MY engine today for once! Can't wait to clean up the shop after. I've built 2 engines since this one's been apart and I dissasembled a core to get a crank. It will be nice to get the shelf space cleared up!
Sorry to see the damage. I hear you on the roads. Out of curiosity, what was the actual damage to the coilover and what did KW say?
the actual damage was a blown strut mount only. It’s was a new aftermarket one from fcpeuro. I also purchased my suspension from them too and connected with them to replace the strut thinking that was the issue. Like every interaction with FCP Euro this was no different. They offered to swap the strut with the purchase and return of a new set. So shout out to their lifetime replacement guarantee.
the actual damage was a blown strut mount only. It’s was a new aftermarket one from fcpeuro. I also purchased my suspension from them too and connected with them to replace the strut thinking that was the issue. Like every interaction with FCP Euro this was no different. They offered to swap the strut with the purchase and return of a new set. So shout out to their lifetime replacement guarantee.
Good to hear it wasn't the strut. Great to hear that the replacement program works.
Another couple of jobs ticked off:
Gundo hack, Fister whatever you like to call it. 1.5" pipe cut and welded. The sound is so much better!
Broke both tailpipe clamps, and broke two bolts on the sleeve clamps...all were well rusted! Despite living in a country with no salt on our roads!
Fresh stainless bolts and a good wirebrush and everything came up nice.
… And drove it to spend what will be its first night at its new home.
it’s the typical situation where you park your Porsche at the extreme end of the parking area, and then some jerk in an SUV comes along and parks RIGHT next to you .
it’s the typical situation where you park your Porsche at the extreme end of the parking area, and then some jerk in an SUV comes along and parks RIGHT next to you .
My Sunday job for my October 97 built RHD 996 6MT.
I had a cracked oil fill pipe, so that was the job...
Had not taken the alternator out before, but it needed serious persuasion. There is a metal sleeve in the rear of the alternator that the bolt thread adheres to. This sleeve has a tendency to slide towards the rear of the car when the bolt is tensioned. By doing this, it closes the gap making the tolerance to remove the alternator very tight (read impossible to remove). After a lot of tapping the alternator with a soft mallet and WD40 to lubricate it, the alternator eventually came out (note, you need to turn it in a clockwise direction to remove). Changing the oil filler pipe was a breeze. I then hammered the metal sleeve outward (by installing the bolt and hitting the head of the bolt) which made the install much easier than removal.
Reinstalling the drive belt was not plain and simple either ... there are some great tutorials on the web for this, but after much lost skin, swearing, and head scratching I ended up getting it done. The secret is in choosing the last pulley onto which to install the belt, that being the small brown pulley to the left of the pulley that is used to de-tension the belt on removal.
In an attempt to check window drop and latch functions, my remote is no longer locking the doors on my car.
I was using a screwdriver to close the latch with the door open. The window dropped but does not go back up when I cycle the door handle. With doors open, the dash lights do not come on as they did before. Only the interior lights come on.
The remote only makes one beep and does not lock/unlock. Is there a way to reset this?