When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
1) Replaced my instrument cluster LCD Bulbs to fix the clock that turned black a week ago. Bought 4 bulbs on Amazon :BMW instrument cluster Bulb 1.5w Beige Socket Base (x4) $8.99.
Took about half an hour (good DIY on YouTube)
2) Fixed the brake pad warning light: The pads are OK but one wire of the front pad sensor was cut near the plug. Installed a new URO sensor.
Last edited by JB001; 09-27-2020 at 08:16 PM.
Reason: LCD not LED (no bulbs)
I removed the Bushwood Country Club sticker that I put on last month in honor of the 40th anniversary of the release of Caddyshack and replaced it with our chapter sticker.
Then I put on my just delivered Porsche/German flag themed shoes (now that I see them in person I wish I'd left the checkerboard off).
And then I drove to Mission Bay for a socially distanced beer with an old friend.
Fitted the softer, shorter clutch spring from McMaster-Carr* (9657K142 - 3.5" long, 1" OCD, "0.76 ID). I have not driven the car yet, but I can immediately feel the clutch weight is linear rather than the variable mess which had zero feel around the bite point which caused me to either stall the car or use excessive revs to move from standstill. This is one of the very few non-oem mods I plan to do. Looking forward to tomorrow's test drive.
The job was much easier than described on here and elsewhere on the Internet. I just jammed a cottier pin through the hole in the back of the housing , pressed down hard on the clutch pedal and out popped the top of the housing. I just used my fingers to wiggle it out afterwards. I reclined the driver's seat as far as it would go and laid on my back looking up at the clutch spring. (once the ventilation tube had been squeezed together and removed) Once out of the car, I needed to hold the cottier pin in a vice so I could pry it away from the spring housing using a large screw driver and I wrapped the whole assembly in an old towel to keep it from flying across the garage as the hold pin was released.
Here's a pic of it greased up and about to go back into the car, held at the correct compression with the reused, twisted up cottier pin that had been in the vice and the old 'lubed up' oem spring I took out.
*McMaster-Carr shipped the part very fast. I got it the next day via UPS for $20.29 including delivery for six springs, minimum order. Very impressed. I've got 5 spares as well.
I wired in a second dual-USB charger socket, but left it hiden behind the dash.
Ran a USB extrension to the rear deck.
Made a bracket for my Dual XGPS 160 that I mounted on the rear deck.
Now my GPS & GoPro will automagically have power when I start my car.
I have both Harry's Lap Timer Grand Prix & TrackAddict.
I tested Harry's Lap Timer and the GPS, GoPro and Kiwi seem to be working fine.
I'm ready for the next AutoX.
I just need to order a case of XP9 and a case of DT40 and I'll be ready for the next Track Day.
Tomorrow I'm installing Feal coilovers on a Millennium Edition.
Last edited by TexSquirrel; 09-27-2020 at 11:58 PM.
Yesterday I changed the motor mounts. I was surprised after pulling the installed ones (just over 57k miles on car) that they were most likely original with a 2003 build date on them. I suppose they could have been changed at some point but it's not in any of my paperwork. At any rate, they were in surprisingly good shape. Not much tailpipe sagging at all but after owning the car for 5 years I figured they were due. I installed Reins that did tighten up the tailpipes maybe a 1/2 inch or so. I suspect they won't have the same longevity as the OEMs?
The front bump stops on my car are in a similar state. Is there a way to gauge, before disassembly, if the top mounts need replacement? Sometimes I hear a knock from the front left but only after a long drive. ‘99 with about 45k miles.
Strut mounts can be very cracked. Some you see; some, including very large failures, you don't until you get them off. I suspect these need replacement a lot more than folks realize. Made a huge difference in noise/driving in my case. That rubber is single handedly responsible for suspending the entire corner of the car and all it's impacts.
I’m looking forward to hearing about the results of the spring change.
In terms of clutch feel, this is an excellent mod. I found a newly laid piece of twisty road, these 996's are quite fun in the rain aren't they?
There is a downside though...I think the effort required to depress the pedal is now too much. I wonder whether the oem spring I removed was fatigued. I may end up fitting a stronger clutch spring next.
Replaced a rear coffin arm today...Only took me 2 hours!Next one should be much quicker!
The first one is definitely the hardest.
I installed a Feal suspension yesterday on a C4.(Millennium Edition)
Having the lift sure made things easier!
It still took a lot longer than I thought it would.
We installed and uninstalled 3 corners trying to get the height just right.
In the end it looked perfect.
Feal has either slightly redesigned their stuff, or the 996.1 C4 suspension is different, or both.
Some of the differences I like, and some I don't.
But nothing earth shattering.
What would you recommend as a suspension starting place for for someone who has no experience with suspensions? (Actually I replaced the shocks on my 1965 Pontiac about 50 years ago). Maybe something that is easy and will help me decide if I want to continue or just have a shop do it.
Also, is there anything special about Porsche suspensions that requires a Porsche indy to do it?
Also, what are the winning Lotto numbers for next week's drawing?
Bill - I am not skilled, but did replace all my front and rear arms and links. I didn’t replace my shocks/struts, had indy do it (didn’t have the time at that moment). The resources on this site and RennTech had all the info I needed. Two people make the strut and shock replacements doable at home, with stands. You can replace all the other stuff solo, without any trouble. Nothing special or different required for the Pcar work. 56-32-1-17-33–42
For the order you want to replace items, I’d recommend you check out Elephant Racing for their suspension primer and diagrams.
Last edited by hatchetf15; 09-29-2020 at 12:42 PM.
09-27-2020, 06:47 PM
Then I brought it home and washed it... and drove it again !
Next one should be much quicker!
