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Your soft brake pedal may be corrected by proper bleeding of the system, so I'd try that before spending money on a new master cylinder.
The brake fluid was entirely changed and re-bled with the new rotors, pads and lines. Don't know if it was done "properly" but it was done.
Update: After reviewing various web references about soft brake pedal feel caused by "bad" master brake cylinders, I'm pretty use the master cylinder is the problem. I can pump the brakes to get a hard brake feel again but when I continue to press, the pedal drops which every reference says is the likely cause of a bad master brake cylinder. Will find out if that's the case or not in a few days when a new master brake cylinder is installed in my car.
You're missing one of the set screws on the rotor. Not that it really matters because the wheel bolts hold everything together. Just don't know why that little detail is missing though.
As for the other stuff, I think you will be okay. If the brakes start squealing, you can easily correct it...later.
Thanks, just noticed that too. The new ones were in the box. So, I'll have to ask the Indy about that too.
Update: Just pulled and inspected the rotors on the other 3 wheels. The rear rotors both have 2 set screws in them and both front rotors only have one. Only 1 set screw can be used w/the front rotors because only 1 hole in the rotor lines up w/the holes in the front hubs. The Indy says that there was only 1 screw in the front rotors taken off of the car too. Weird but for what ever reason, that's just the way it is on my car.
Not "too worried" about the other stuff but the Indy mgr made such a big deal about detailing what "wasn't done or there", it got me worried. He's a new mgr and it's the 1st time I've dealt w/him. Dealt w/the previous mgr for over 5 years. Not sure I like this one. Talked sh*t about the Akebono pads and tried to blame it for the soft pedal I still felt after the brake job was done. I've run Akebonos on my BMW for 3 years and they are definitely NOT the problem.
The Akebonos on my BMW stop on a dime and don't shed dust or squeal which is why I bought them for my 911 as well.
The location of my Indy shop is convenient but I'm thinking I'm going to look aroundfor another one to service my 911, 335i and ML350. I've been to Kahler's in Dublin but they chg almost as much as a stealership and their really far away. Would prefer suggestions in the Walnut Creek/Concord area if anyone has some.
Those were installed on mine before I bought it and I love them! It makes it look a sh*tload better! It has the factory litronic headlights and a previous owner did the side markers, tail lights and put brighter LEDs on the interior. It really did a great job of modernizing it.
Today was a good day - Drove 3 HRS to CT to pick this up. Really happy, I have been wanting this seat forever. It will take the drivers side and the Sparco Evo II will shift to the passenger. It's big enough if you can't fit, you're not riding. Also, will really help the weight savings progress by getting the stock passenger out. Should be 20+ LBS.
Yesterday my LN Deep Sump and skid plate came in
And finally, I got a bunch of stuff on order:
BK setup for both passenger (stock sliders) and driver (fixed mount)
Hardware for getting harnesses mounted up
2 Schroth 6 points (black will replace my currently blue drivers setup)
Couple cases of XP9 and DT 40 oil
Bunch of 1042 oil filters
Rennline PC680 tray, battery and kill switch. Also, going to pull a bunch of weight out.
I think even with the added weight of additional oil capacity and deep sump, skid plate setup with the offset of super light battery and swapping the passenger seat will get the car officially into the 29XX LB range.
I'll have some videos of impression / install on some parts and reviews when everything arrives.
After waffling back and forth for months on buying a $260 GT3 cup front lip to replace the broken aerokit one for my 996 Aerokit front bumper, I decided to buy one.
I checked the price at Suncoast...and they’re sold out.
The cheapest I could find in stock was over $500.
But, I found out that FVD has one for under $200.
It is on its way and should be delivered tomorrow.
I’m excited!
Since the factory aerokit lip spoiler came loose on my car and got chewed up, I decided I wasn’t going to use plastic plugs to hold it on.
I decided to bolt it on.
I used M8x20mm button head socket bolts, 3/8” fender washers, and nylon lock nuts.
The Porsche GT3 cup spoiler lip fit perfectly.
It is flexible like rubber.
Bottom of bumper with Porsche GT3 Cup Spoiler Lip bolted on.
It’s not going to fall off now!
Thanks, just noticed that too. The new ones were in the box. So, I'll have to ask the Indy about that too.
Update: Just pulled and inspected the rotors on the other 3 wheels. The rear rotors both have 2 set screws in them and both front rotors only have one. Only 1 set screw can be used w/the front rotors because only 1 hole in the rotor lines up w/the holes in the front hubs. The Indy says that there was only 1 screw in the front rotors taken off of the car too. Weird but for what ever reason, that's just the way it is on my car.
Not "too worried" about the other stuff but the Indy mgr made such a big deal about detailing what "wasn't done or there", it got me worried. He's a new mgr and it's the 1st time I've dealt w/him. Dealt w/the previous mgr for over 5 years. Not sure I like this one. Talked sh*t about the Akebono pads and tried to blame it for the soft pedal I still felt after the brake job was done. I've run Akebonos on my BMW for 3 years and they are definitely NOT the problem.
The Akebonos on my BMW stop on a dime and don't shed dust or squeal which is why I bought them for my 911 as well.
The location of my Indy shop is convenient but I'm thinking I'm going to look aroundfor another one to service my 911, 335i and ML350. I've been to Kahler's in Dublin but they chg almost as much as a stealership and their really far away. Would prefer suggestions in the Walnut Creek/Concord area if anyone has some.
Just put complete set of rotors (Pagid) and pads (Akebono) on both of my 996's and pedal feels the same as with the Textar pads that I replaced. I have not replaced the fluid...that's a future project.
I used new bolts, screws and retaining hardware as well.
BTW...the screw holes on the hub (and rotor) are offset. If you don't put them on with the right orientation only one screw will fit. Are they not lining up because of the brembo rotors or do they not know about the offset?
Did the rear brakes on my C4S using the Akebono pads from FCP Euro and Fremax rotors from Autohaus AZ. Bled the brakes front and rear. Also adjusted the hand brake while I was in there.
Then proceeded to go for a drive with the local Porsche group. Pedal feels solid and no noise. We'll see how they dust soon.
Did the rear brakes on my C4S using the Akebono pads from FCP Euro and Fremax rotors from Autohaus AZ. Bled the brakes front and rear. Also adjusted the hand brake while I was in there.
Then proceeded to go for a drive with the local Porsche group. Pedal feels solid and no noise. We'll see how they dust soon.
Interested in dust. Brembo pad dust is killing me!
Picked up my car today. It had paint correction, touch ups, interior leather clean and protection, rubber restoration of the grille wall (under the spoiler), and finally, ceramic coating on the car, glass, and wheels.
06-26-2020, 07:32 PM
