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I find the irony of project Limoncella to be very amusing. In the US, lemons generally refer to poor quality cars which have significant defects. In fact, many states have 'lemon laws' where a manufacturer must buy back the car if an unreasonable amount of defects have been found, basically to protect the consumer. The amount of defects and the condition where this project started, and the care and precision that you have taken so far to turn a lemon into Limoncella to be impressive. I bet Porsche would LOVE to buy this car back when you are done with it.
Turning a lemon into lemonade is one thing (common saying in America)..restoring it to it's original state is on a different level.
I bet Porsche would LOVE to buy this car back when you are done with it.
I think they don't need to, it is already speaking very clearly for the quality of their product, not that Porsche needed it.
But maybe they could give me a call if they need help preparing the U-boat version of the 911 😅
This is going to be the only part inside the cockpit in evident not restored conditions (the pedals are going to be reused, but fully restored, impossible to see any difference between a brand new one and her original and restored pedal set)
I am now cleaning all the nuts and bolts, before sending them to be zync plated.
Originally most of them where passivated yellow, they will be light silver after the zync plating, but anyway, I could never expect the nuts and bolts to be so amazing well reusable!
I just read the article. I was certainly one of the naysayers at the beginning, confused how you could possibly bring the chassis back to factory spec considering the water inside all the cavities.
As it sits it's a true symbol of your persistence; it looks incredible. I think there is also more paint on it than the factory applied! You still have a long road ahead but you deserve a congratulations!
Last edited by FrenchToast; 08-30-2021 at 12:46 PM.
at the coachbuilder shop they must have done a mistake, i am pretty sure the car came there with all the stoppers, so probably they put the 4 kissing in the cockpit in places they are supposed to left open for the wiring harness.
By the way, what would be the part number of the stoppers that must close the holes indicated from the "maritime blue" arrow in the picture?
Considering the cockpit remain fully stripped, would you still prefer/suggest the tape or better go with the stopper?
I wouldn't do the tape if you're not planning to do carpet and the tape would be exposed. Either use those plugs that fit or leave it wide open.
BTW, you indirectly answered one of my questions. I was wondering about the full interior paint and whether you did that because it would be exposed. I was going to ask if you planned to cover the seat rail area in black paint as the factory does. But if you're not running carpet, then I already have my answer, everything will be exposed yellow paint.
I wouldn't do the tape if you're not planning to do carpet and the tape would be exposed. Either use those plugs that fit or leave it wide open.
BTW, you indirectly answered one of my questions. I was wondering about the full interior paint and whether you did that because it would be exposed. I was going to ask if you planned to cover the seat rail area in black paint as the factory does. But if you're not running carpet, then I already have my answer, everything will be exposed yellow paint.
the car will be fully painted in lemon yellow inside, outside, underneath, like the CUP 993 were, only they didn't have any sound deadening for saving the steel from being exposed after chipping, while Limoncella still has all the hooks and nuts for rear seats, belts, panels, etc, since I didn't want to lose the possibility to easily bring the car back to her fully original layout.
In that case the parts to be painted matt black will recieve the layer of paint, not just in the cockpit, but also underneath (with the right matt light grey color).
but, honestly, a thing is making things in a certain way so that maybe later etc. etc., another think is thinking about that right now!
Now I an fully focused on engine reassembly, subsystems reinstallation, finding the last parts, especially the full gear set of the G50.21 with all the bearings and a super experienced shop for the gerabox reassembly
Last edited by nothingbutgt3; 09-01-2021 at 08:39 AM.
I finally took courage to face the fan disassembly, such an intimidating task, because you never know if the fan would crack in a brittle way...everything went fine, luckily, and now I am wondering what would be the best way to clean it and prepare it for the painting process, together with the fan housing (which is made of magnesium aloy, if i am not wrong)
Disassembling it was a challenging task, but in the end it came out easier than expected
Spreading the load is mandatory: in the end the hub slipped out easily, without having to heat the fan, but I suspect it has been also because forces were applied in a very working way and the fan couldn't flex at all because of the 0 momentum, between applied pressing force (in the center of the fan hub) and the reaction force (spreaded on the reaction area around the hub, concentrated on a very limited circle by using the smallest radius available to contain the fan hub)
This lead to zero flex, null resulting momentum, and so the reaction force was the result of the addition of all the reaction forces among the circular corona: this way the applied forces were all parallel to the mating surfaces, the safest configuration together with the more effective way.
The pressing phase last less than a second so short that if you notice I wasn't quick enough to take a picture in the position 0.
I would like to go as close as possible to the original light sand beige color with the same thick consistency the 3,6 aircooled engine were originally equipped.
Infact I noticed that on the rosepassion website the genuine porsche brand new fan isn't at all same as originally delivered, but it is painted in silver.
Last edited by nothingbutgt3; 09-04-2021 at 05:18 AM.
08-20-2021, 11:47 AM
